After a whopping storm, sunrise in Le Conquet, west of Brest, Brittany
Wild, rugged natural beauty—both fierce and gentle—reigns in Finistère, the most westerly department of Brittany. Here, in France’s “end-of-the-earth” region, rocky coastlines, crashing waves and blazing sunsets excite, while pristine sugar sand beaches, grazing sheep and seabirds floating on sea breezes invite quiet contemplation.
Captivating Les Blancs Sablons beach, Le Conquet
This stunning, other-worldly area lies about twelve hours’ drive from our home in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. But we didn’t rush the adventure, taking the opportunity to explore unknown territory along the way. Some terrific discoveries include Montauban, near Toulouse, some of the best seafood we’ve ever tasted and hard-to-spot feathered friends like the Red-billed Chough and sweet, little wren on the Île d’Ouessant (Ushant), a 90-minute ferry ride from our base in Le Conquet, west of Brest.
Here are some highlights:
Montauban, pretty in pinkMontauban, shimmering goldCharming Pornic, west of NantesDelectable scallops at Le Jardin d’Olivier, Pornic
Dusk in PornicElegant Marius offers a casual terrace with lovely port views, as well.Le Conquet, our base for a weekDazzling sunrise, Le ConquetView from acclaimed Bistrot 1954. Chef Nolwenn Corre is one of a few female Michelin-starred chefs in France.Stellar pork medallions at Bistrot 1954, at Pointe Saint-Mathieu, near Le ConquetCrabs for sale at a weekly marketSpunky Sanderlings take flight near Le ConquetYummy appetizer at Le Hanger du Pêcheur A lucky find–Le Hangar du Pêcheur, on the outskirts of Le ConquetThe starkly beautiful island of Ouessant, a 90-minute ferry ride from Le ConquetOuessant shimmers under sunny skiesDramatic rock formations on OuessantOne of many impressive lighthouses, OuessantRed-billed Choughs peck their way through lunch, OuessantSheep roam freely on OuessantAccents in bright bleu enhance this sturdy house, OuessantRed geraniums add a bit of flair to this pretty stone cottage on Ouessant A Lampaul mural captures local life centered on the sea. Fluffy purple hydrangeas contrast with the hard slate roofs in Lampaul.The velo is the way to go on Ouessant, so be prepared to pedal!Delicious lieu jaune (pollack) at La Dutchesse Anne, Lampaul, OuessantOn Ouessant, avid birders pursue their passion during autumn migration, hoping for rarities blown off course.Misty conditions enhance the stark beauty of OuessantOur return overnight stop at the quaint riverside Auberge de la Riviere, in sleepy Velluire, north of Bordeaux.Superb lotte at the Auberge de la RiviereMagical vista from La Pointe de Saint-Michieu, Plougonvelin, by Le Conquet
Finistère may be located well off the beaten path, but its striking landscapes, stellar cuisine, extraordinary bird life, plus friendly Breton hospitality make it very much worth a detour… and an extended stay.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Gayle, Ralph and Nidal Issa on Ouessant
Happy days! At long last, during our visit to the island of Ouessant, we met up with the very congenial expert birder and biodiversity engineer Nidal Issa, co-author of Where to Watch Birds in France (2019), which was a huge help to Ralph during his big birding year.
By chance we chatted with Le Parisien journalist, Aurélie Sipos, who was on assignment to Ouessant to write a piece on birding culture.
Nidal Issa, Aurélie Sipos, journalist with Le Parisien, Gayle and Ralph, as the sun sets in Ouessant
PPS
Back from our Brittany travels now, I turn my attention to the next book–it’s taking shape, albeit not as quickly as I’d like. I guess you could say I’ve taken to the slower pace in Provence:)
Gorgeous photos. I want to follow in your tracks, and savor that delectable cuisine.
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So glad you enjoyed it!
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Conquestador !👍😉😂😘
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Merci beaucoup!
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Are you living in France? How exciting. I enjoyed your descriptions and the beautiful words to describe a scene. Miss Europe every day!
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Thank you so much for taking the time to comment–much appreciated!
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