Gayle Smith Padgett

From Saint-Rémy to Mighty Montauban & Artsy Cordes sur Ciel

A Huguenot hotbed in the early seventeenth century, the city of Montauban in southwest France became the headquarters for the Protestant rebels in 1621. Legend has it that in order to end a lengthy siege, Catholic King Louis XIII’s army pummeled the town with 400 cannonballs. The townsfolk held and so did the phrase, faire les quatre cents coups, “to make 400 blows,” which morphed into an idiom meaning to raise hell or to live a wild life.

This upscale hardware-deco store has it all!

For the record, there may not have been anywhere near 400 “blows”on Montauban–though it might have felt like it–one of them left a canon-sized hole in the “L’Église Saint-Jacques. And regardless of the actual number of cannonball hits Montauban weathered, French film director Francois Truffaut set the 400-number in cinematic stone when he titled his acclaimed New Wave film about a rebellious youngster Les Quatre Cents Coups (1959).

Fabulous tuna amuse bouche, Antoine L’Omnivore

Scrumptious asparagus starter at Antoine L’Omnivore, Montauban

Superb lieu noir with moules and fresh veggies at welcoming 5 Bouchons

A fave olive oil producer–Castelas–from Provence!

Though I may harbor some rebel remnants, perhaps due to my Huguenot heritage—my grandmother on my dad’s side was a Michaux—on our four-day foray to Montauban, peace and harmony ruled. Our trip was all about meeting up with lovely friends, enjoying fine cuisine, and quietly following our noses—without a warring faction in sight.

Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1852: A Portrait of Caroline Gonse (facsimile)

Poster art at Musée Ingres: “Must women be nudes to enter the museum? Less than 3% of the artists are women but 83% of the nudes are women.”

Like its neighbor Toulouse, this town of 60 thousand residents on the River Tarn is constructed mainly of reddish-pink clay bricks. Just take a gander at the main square, Place Nationale, and you’ll get the pretty picture. Also, Montauban has a charming pedestrian old town filled with loads of spiffy boutiques, gorgeous green spaces, a terrific Musée Ingres Bourdelle, an extensive outdoor Saturday market and some upscale restaurants and a terrific museum, La Musée Ingres Bourdelle. (Surprising fact: During World War II, DaVinci’s Mona Lisa was spirited away to Montauban for safe keeping.)

Pretty Cordes sur Ciel is filled with artisan boutiques.

Sur les Paves, a cozy veggie restaurant, Cordes sur Ciel

In addition, it’s just an hour from the postcard pretty artisan enclave of Cordes sur Ciel.

Mais oui, Montauban is worth a detour!

All the best for a lovely rest-of-spring.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is taking shape–much like a hummingbird builds its nest–the Rome Way, not in a day. Truth be told, experiencing these tempting Provencal pleasures cuts in to typing time. But so be it–balance is key, n’est ce pas?

PPS

Though we hoped for a black woodpecker in the countryside outside Cordes-sur-Ciel, the noisy operator opted for seclusion. But on a follow-up trip to Saintes-Maries-de-Mer in the Camargue, this handsome grey heron struck a dignified pose.

Quoi de Neuf à Saint-Rémy-de-Provence?

What’s new in St. Rémy? Well, as the Greek philosopher Heraclitus is known to have said, “The only constant in life is change.” And so it goes in Saint-Rémy, where Greeks once roamed. This vibrant town nestled into the foothills of the Alpilles continues to reinvent itself in ways big and small.

A flower plot brightens up the new road.

Here are some of the latest developments from roadworks to restaurants.

After many months of construction aimed to smooth the chemin south, that well deserved the nickname Pothole Alley, the traffic can now sail smoothly straight up and over the Alpilles. Happily, gone are the dreaded deep yellow Deviation signs that directed traffic through the Tourist Office parking lot to an alternating traffic light that was meant to keep the flow of cars all moving in single direction at any given time, but not always with 100% success. (Try negotiating a way ‘round a massive cement truck on a skinny one-lane road—grrrr.)

Also, now the street sports a lovely bike path and attractive wood barriers, along with beaucoup fleurs. The parking lot at the Tourist Office has been greatly expanded and charging stations installed. In the process, the former boules courts delineated with rustic railway ties got gobbled up—and I do miss them—but a sleek new court was installed on the south side of the kiddie playground.

For the residents in centre ville, losing the little grocery store called SPAR was a blow. Word on the street is that the family who ran the franchaise, tried to find a buyer to continue it as a grocery store but without luck. The private party who bought it is now renovating it. It may be a type of deli but time will tell.

What was old is new again. What will be on the ground floor, one wonders?

Down the road from the former SPAR, across from the Nostradamus fountain, a beautifully renovated building has been revealed. It was vacant for eons and then under a construction wrap for a long while. Now the gorgeous structure is garnering accolades galore. The rumor is that it will house several apartments with commercial space on the ground floor—surely to command posh prices.

Cafe La Place, formerly Cafe de la Place, on Place de la République.

On the restaurant front, the big news is that Café de la Place—in former times—the place to see and be seen, on Place de la République, is under new ownership. The current proprietors who run a much acclaimed restaurant in Arles called L’Apsara have bought it and cleverly changed the name ever so slightly to Café La Place. It’s now sans “de” and offers a pan-Asian menu. First reports are that dishes can be bland but other diners we know have given it a thumbs up. We shall see!

The delightful and delicious Bienbon on a quiet side street.

The venerable resto L’Estagnol on Boulevard Marceau is now L’Ao. Also, La Table de Nicolas, which has been boarded up for ages, shows signs of clean-up activity, which is promising. And the cozy but yummy seafood eatery Gus is set to take over the space where the spacious Café Célestine was on Boulevard Victor Hugo. Always coming up with something new, Maison Favier’s congenial Jerome tells me that at his other restaurant called Bienbon, he’ll have guest chefs for a week-long stints—not only French, but also Lebanese and American. Can’t wait!

The “new” pharmacy in centre ville is spruced up with *fleurs* out front.

But perhaps closest to my heart is the change of ownership—and name—of the former Pharmacie La Croix Verte, now Pharmacie de la Collégiale. It’s located next to the town’s church, L’Église Saint-Martin, technically, La Collégiale de Saint-Martin, so the name fits. But most importantly, the terrific former staff remains. Our attachment to these caring folks has a long history. Way back in the early 90s, on our first visit to St. Rémy, Ralph had to enlist their services—after hours. I’d fainted from a powerful shooting back pain and fallen over backwards in a hotel after heaving an overloaded suitcase onto the bed. A doctor had come to the room within minutes and prescribed some meds. It was late by then but Saint-Rémy had us covered. Outside the closed pharmacy was a magic bell, which the good doctor had told Ralph about. After a buzzing it, someone appeared, took the prescription and filled it!

The site of Les Antiques, on the outskirts of St.Rémy

Regardless of the changes—at least for the time being—Saint-Rémy remains a small town at heart and its authenticity still shines through. The traditional fêtes like the carnaval parade, which shouts good riddance to winter and hello spring with celebratory good cheer; is a big crowd pleaser; the Roman ruins, Les Antiques, shimmer in the sunshine; and the psychiatric hospital, Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh stayed a year and painted over 150 works to include The Starry Night, still houses patients in one section and in another welcomes busloads of visitors yearly.

The Wednesday market thrives under sunny skies.

And of course, the renown Wednesday market is as vibrant as ever—unless the mistral is raging. That’s another constant. Perhaps not one we fully embrace, but revere it or resent it, this powerful wind is a Saint-Rémy characteristic that is undeniably genuine.

***

Wishing you health and hope—forever a happy combo.

Bises, Gayle

Dazzling Hoopoe.
(Image by JaceBen, Pixabay)

While enjoying my first cuppa on our sunny terrace earlier this week, one of my favorite feathered friends flew by—the impressively sensational Hoopoe. A great start to the day.

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is moving forward—not nearly as zippy as a Hoopoe’s flight trajectory, but steadily, more like a flamingo, sifting the mud for tasty morsels.

A Dazzling Day Starring Cezanne & Picasso in the South of France

Mont Sainte-Victoire looms large over Aix-en-Provence

Mesmerizing Mont Sainte-Victoire is a stunner–any time of day, in any light.

Approaching dusk, Mont Sainte Victoire turns to shimmering gold.

If you are doubtful, check in with Cezanne. This magnificent montagne that towers over Aix-en-Provence was the subject of 36 paintings and 45 watercolors produced by the town’s most famous native son, post-Impressionist artist, Paul Cezanne (1839-1906). He is credited with providing the essential link between late 19^th century Impressionism and early 20^th century Cubism.

Cezanne’s obsession with the mountain is understandable. When you have a direct countryside view of it, like Ralph and I did on a recent stay on the outskirts of the artist’s home town, you are glued to the seductive sight of the mountain–glowing in the morning sunshine and casting deep purple shadows at sundown. We just didn’t want to miss a minute of it.

Vallauris, near Cannes on the French Riviera

But there were things to do, things to see. One was visiting a delightful très chère amie in the town of Vallauris, home to one of Cezanne’s famous admirers, Pablo Picasso. (The Spanish artist, along with Henri Matisse, considered Cezanne the “father of us all” and owned several of his works.) The village, just inland from Cannes on the French Riviera, counted Picasso as a resident from 1948 to 1955.

Beautiful bird plate, but probably not for eating on!

In the center of town, the Musée Nationale Pablo Picasso commemorates his work in ceramics. The production of earthenware pottery in Vallauris dates to Roman times, but Picasso raised the town’s profile considerably. The museum collection showcases a wide range of his ceramic works, many of which feature feathered friends, usually doves or owls—my personal favorites!

Picasso’s *War & Peace* at the Musée Nationale Pablo Picasso, in Vallauris.

Aside from the extensive ceramics collection, the highlight of the museum has to be Picasso’s moving anti-war work, La Guerre et La Paix, which covers the interior of a small chapel. Picasso painted the scenes on flat, but flexible panels, which were then fitted onto the chapel walls and vaulted ceiling.

Picasso and a bird vase (Photo by Edward Quinn, ’53, museum collection)

The sky aglow to the west of Mont Sainte-Victoire, on the outskirts of Aix.

Following our foray to Vallauris, where we admired Picasso’s poignant tribute to peace, we returned to the tranquility of Cezanne country in time to witness the sun setting on the artist’s preferred subject, Mount Sainte-Victoire. As the orange sherbet glow blanketed the mountain, a sense of calm and tranquility emerged. As if to underscore the brilliance of the peaceful scene, a silvery dove gently flapped its way through the sky. It was a fitting finale to a day spent in awe and wonder of the harmony and serenity that art and nature can provide.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, ready for spring.

Stay healthy, happy, and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

On a recent visit to the terrific Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau, near Saintes-Maries-de-Mer, I met up with the very upbeat and engaging director, Frédéric Lamouroux. Here, he most kindly shows off my book, The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie. I assured him that the next book, Pleasures of Provence (working title) will definitely include action at the park. I also assured him that it’ll be a while. But like migrating birds, I try to do my best to keep moving, hopefully in a (mostly) forward direction.

A Winter Escape: Provence to Paris

An illuminated Eiffel Tower wows passengers on an evening cruise on the Seine.

Van Gogh made me go. To Paris, that is. Not that the City of Light needed any more allure than it already has to draw me in. And by the fast train, the TGV, this magnificent city with its powerful je ne sais quoi energy is reachable in less than 3 hours from Avignon, just 20 minutes north of Saint-Rémy.

So why now? Because for the first time ever, the much acclaimed exposition of paintings from Van Gogh’s last months in the town of Auvers-sur-Oise (30 kilometers north of Paris) was in full swing at my beloved Musée d’Orsay. This former train station houses an incredible range of works by my favorite Impressionists and Post-Impressionists and a treasure trove of other magnificent masterpieces. The expo would end the beginning of February, so if I wanted to witness this extraordinary collection by the Dutch master who spent a year in at a psychiatric hospital Saint-Rémy, this was the time.

Vintage poster of the Auvers-sur-Oise train station

Portrait of Dr. Paul Gachet, 1890, Auvers

The Van Gogh exhibition lived up to its hype but, the crowds rendered lingering pretty much impossible. Happily, the rest of the museum had plenty of room to roam through the insanely incredible permanent collection–to include many by Van Gogh which he painted before relocating in Auvers-sur-Oise.

The five-day, cram-packed trip was a non-stop whirlwind. I’d over-programmed to the hilt and beyond–even excluding the main tourists sites because we’d been there done that over the years. So we focused on art and architecture, to include the expo by the Latvian-American abstract painter Mark Rothko at the crazy cool Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton–fashioned after a ship–as well as the Berthe Morisot exhibition at the Musée Marmottan. And we revisited some old haunts like the Luxembourg Gardens and Place Vosges, and indulged in some terrific culinary delights. Luckily, the weather cooperated, which was nothing short of a miracle the end of January, allowing us to walk everywhere. In fact, the last full day there, we clocked 25,000 steps–yikes!

The superbly renovated department store, La Samaritaine

The glorious stained glass dome at Galeries Lafayette

Frank Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuitton, a splendid art venue

German artist Katharina Grosse’s “Canyon,” 2022, Acrylic on 8 aluminum petals at the Fondation Louis Vuitton

Wait staff at the ready, Le Train Bleu, Gare de Lyon

To cap off the visit, we planned on a “bite” at the splendiferous restaurant Le Train Bleu, at the Gare de Lyon. It’s one of revered food critic Alexander Lobrano’s top 30 restaurants in Paris listed in his compelling book, My Place at the Table, so I was keen to try it. There wasn’t time for a relaxed meal in the ornate main dining room–as this quite pricey option merits–so we headed to the extensive “bar” area, which offers much more casual and reasonable fare. The Caesar salad and club sandwich were sensational. Highly recommend!

At the other end of the spectrum are the falafel pitas we picked up at Maoz (Latin Quarter). Stuffed with fresh veggies selected from a serve-yourself bar, they were delicious. And munching them on a bench, near the Seine while people-watching under sunny skies, made a happy memory.

Historic Brasserie Balzar is ever popular

And in between is Brasserie Balzac, which I’d read about in The New York Times. Hemingway and his crew used to hang out there. We just happened to be passing by around 1:30 PM en route to Luxembourg Gardens. Without a reservation at this historic haunt, which we assumed would be packed, we prepared ourselves to be turned away. Instead, we were greeted most warmly and seated right away at a well-positioned table–one of the few still available. The roast chicken was incredible and the ambiance authentic and lively.

Kids sail boats on a pond in Luxembourg Gardens

Vintage photo Berthe Morisot, Musée Marmottan

Before I sign off, a few words of advice if you are planning a Paris trip soon. Chances are crowds will be even greater as the weather warms and the Olympics near, so be prepared for extended waits, be it trying to buy a metro ticket, browse in Shakespeare & Co. book shop, or munch a decadent treat at Angelina, the elegant pastry shop/restaurant. Target your top must-see and dos and calculate distances/time–considering construction delays–to avoid meltdowns. (Who, moi?) If you do end up walking more than you’d planned on, more reason to wear ultra comfy walking shoes—your footsies (and your emotional state) will thank you.

Bises, Gayle

Cascading blooms adorn cafes across the city

Yes, I’m beavering away on Book Three, to which, for the moment, I’ve assigned the working title, Pleasures of Provence. This seems fitting since it points to the special aspects of life in this region that I’ll strive to convey, perhaps in some surprising ways.

A Rose-ringed Parakeet wishes us adieu by Musée Marmottan.

PPS

Our last day in Paris was dull and gray. But, this cooperative feathered friend–a Rose-ringed Parakeet–flitting about the park by the Musée Marmottan perked up our spirits when it posed for a moment as if to say, “Au revoir et bonne route!”

From Soggy Saint-Rémy-de-Provence…Bonne Année 2024!

Whether pale pink or brilliant coral, how I love the Greater Flamingos. Here they prance in the Camargue, early this year.

Meilleurs Vœux to all for a very happy, healthy and hopeful New Year!

A pastel pre-dusk January sky over the Mediterranean by Saintes-Maries-de-Mer

The Nouvelle Anneé signals a special foray for Ralph and me to the Camargue, the vast wetland about an hour from home where the Rhône River empties into the Med and, for at least part of the year, a magnificent variety of wildlife calls home.

Rosé from Ridley Scott’s winery near Ménerbes adds a
celebratory note to our seashore picnic.

We commemorated finishing our 2019 big birding year here on 1 Jan 2020, and a tradition was born. Though Ralph and I visit regularly throughout the year, early each January, we make a point of paying tribute to area’s significance in our lives—this majestic nature park was a major draw for us settling in Provence over ten years ago.

The Little Egret, with its golden “booties,” taking a break

I know, where did the decade go? Well, part of the answer is losing track of time spent in this magical place—cruising the boardwalk, people-watching from a place in the sand, taking a dip, watching the waves crash, munching a pique-nique, soaking up the sunshine (or feeling the freezing breeze, as the season dictates), witnessing traditional festivals, indulging in a fresh fish lunch in the quaint village of Sainte-Maries-de-Mer, or, of course, birding the extensive marshland.

The elusive Kingfisher, my “spark bird,” the one that officially kicked off my birding journey.

Now that yours truly has flitted into the realm of “birderdom,” and still a fledgling (there is a ton to know), I am spending more time roaming the wetlands with Ralph.

The White Stork, lallagagging in a distant Camargue pond.

This year the tradition continues, with the added objective of searching for a recently reported phalarope, like a miniature gull, which is rare for Provence. (It refused to be spotted by us, however.) The outing also provided an early boost to our 2024 bird list—no pressure, just easy-going and fun. This included seeing my first flamingos of the year—happy days!

Bises, Gayle

Like this Little Egret, let’s shake off the dust and make a fresh start in 2024!

Book Three update: The narrative about how our life in Provence is shaping up is taking shape, though not without substantial word wrestling. It feels like a mano-a-mano duel sometimes, but in a good way. (Mostly.)

Joyeux Fêtes 2023!

In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, l’Église Saint Martin all aglow for the holidays

Dear Readers,

From a tad-bit-chilly but mostly sunny Saint-Rémy-de-Provence…

Wherever you may be, I hope that you and your loved ones are well and that this holiday time brings you joy. Wishing you all the very, very best for a safe, healthy, happy, and hopeful 2024!

My heartfelt appreciation goes out to each and every one of you for your spirited support of this blog (and Instagrams!) throughout the year. And for continuing to spread the word about The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie, as well as Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie. With all my heart, Mille Fois Merci!

As 2023 draws to a close and we begin New Year 2024, I hope you’ll venture into nature more and more—and with a particular interest in watching and listening to our feathered friends. To identify birdsong, try the free app called Merlin—très easy and fun.

Grosses bises, Gayle

Book Number Three is in the works. Progress would be much faster if I weren’t distracted by so many of the enticing pleasures of Provence—like discovering there’s a direct train from Avignon to Mannheim, next door to Heidelberg, where Ralph and I lived and worked for many years. So a few weeks ago, we hopped aboard the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) to catch up with friends and visit the Christmas market—like a mini Strassbourg marché de noël. It was as delightful as ever, especially the Friesen Punsch, a special vin chaud with an extra bloop of rum—yummy! After freezing for a week, it was lovely to return to the relative warmth of Saint-Rémy, and much of the time, glorious sapphire skies.

Heidelberg Castle above the Old Bridge and Neckar River—forever a stunning sight to behold.

*Holiday Book Sale on Amazon: A gift idea for your Francophile friends, perhaps? The Kindle version of both Passion for Provence and The Birdwatcher’s Wife will be on sale ($2.99) throughout December. Happy reading!

Falling for the Fall Season in Provence

Vivid autumn colors decorate the landscape at the popular winery, Domaine de Valdition, outside of the *bijou* village of Eygalières, near Saint-Rémy

Flaming reds, brilliant oranges and deep, rich greens present a vibrant feast for the eyes as autumn comes into its own in Provence, making it a terrific time to savor the picturesque region.

Just-picked fruit at the local olive oil mill,
Le Moulin du Calanquet

A new front yard for the St. Rémy Tourist Office

Distant flamingos wade by a lighthouse near Les Saintes-Maries-de-Mer

While dipping in the now-nippy pool lacks appeal, cooler temps make hiking the hills, biking the canals, and birding in the Camargue especially delightful. It’s also the season for tracking the town’s beautification projects, harvesting olives, and meeting up with friends after the summer visitors have departed.

A stellar veggie pasta at Bistrot le France, Apt

A Saturday morning oyster bar pop-up by the upscale bakery Terre & Blé, St. Rémy

The decked-out boutique at Domaine de Valdition, near St. Rémy

Mas des Infermières, near Ménèrbes, in the Luberon.

And, attending to the discovery to-do list. One destination that I’ve had my eye on for some time is the winery owned by the movie director Ridley Scott, located in the Luberon, near Ménèrbes, the small town where Peter Mayle lived—just 45 minutes from Saint-Rémy. After a terrific lunch with delightful friends in Apt at the charming Bistrot le France, we made a little detour to the winery, Mas des Infermières.

Peugeot bicycle from *The House of Gucci*

The spiffy contemporary tasting room doubles as a movie museum, decorated with posters from the acclaimed director’s impressive repertoire, along with various props. One of those is the Peugeot bicycle used in The House of Gucci and the tennis racquet and cricket bat featured in The Good Year, one of my favorite flicks. In fact, truth be told, I’ve watched it so many times, I know lots of lines by heart.

A canon from Ridley Scott’s latest film, *Napoleon*.

And the movie theme continues outside where a couple of canons from the director’s latest film, Napoleon, flank a stylishly understated stone fountain. (The film will play in St. Rémy this month–dubbed in French, but some showings will be in original English with French sub-titles.)

The beautiful boutique at Ridley Scott’s winery, Mas des Infermières.

But let’s not forget the wines! Of course, we sniffed, swirled, and sipped several and brought home a selection, which we’ll enjoy by the evening fire, letting our minds wander, enjoying the solitude, and relishing the slower pace that fall brings.

***

Wherever you are, dear readers, stay safe, well, and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

Mais oui, I’m plugging along on Book Three. Pieces are falling into place, and bit by bit a structure is emerging. The finish line isn’t in sight yet, but this autumn, hope springs eternal:)

Fabulous Finistère in Breathtaking Brittany

After a whopping storm, sunrise in Le Conquet, west of Brest, Brittany

Wild, rugged natural beauty—both fierce and gentle—reigns in Finistère, the most westerly department of Brittany. Here, in France’s “end-of-the-earth” region, rocky coastlines, crashing waves and blazing sunsets excite, while pristine sugar sand beaches, grazing sheep and seabirds floating on sea breezes invite quiet contemplation.

Captivating Les Blancs Sablons beach, Le Conquet

This stunning, other-worldly area lies about twelve hours’ drive from our home in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. But we didn’t rush the adventure, taking the opportunity to explore unknown territory along the way. Some terrific discoveries include Montauban, near Toulouse, some of the best seafood we’ve ever tasted and hard-to-spot feathered friends like the Red-billed Chough and sweet, little wren on the Île d’Ouessant (Ushant), a 90-minute ferry ride from our base in Le Conquet, west of Brest.

Here are some highlights:

View from acclaimed Bistrot 1954. Chef Nolwenn Corre is one of a few female Michelin-starred chefs in France.

The starkly beautiful island of Ouessant, a 90-minute ferry ride from Le Conquet

Red-billed Choughs peck their way through lunch, Ouessant

Accents in bright *bleu* enhance this sturdy house, Ouessant

A Lampaul mural captures local life centered on the sea.

The *velo* is the way to go on Ouessant, so be prepared to pedal!

On Ouessant, avid birders pursue their passion during autumn migration, hoping for rarities blown off course.

Our return overnight stop at the quaint riverside Auberge de la Riviere, in sleepy Velluire, north of Bordeaux.

Magical vista from La Pointe de Saint-Michieu, Plougonvelin, by Le Conquet

Finistère may be located well off the beaten path, but its striking landscapes, stellar cuisine, extraordinary bird life, plus friendly Breton hospitality make it very much worth a detour… and an extended stay.

Bises, Gayle

Happy days! At long last, during our visit to the island of Ouessant, we met up with the very congenial expert birder and biodiversity engineer Nidal Issa, co-author of Where to Watch Birds in France (2019), which was a huge help to Ralph during his big birding year.

By chance we chatted with Le Parisien journalist, Aurélie Sipos, who was on assignment to Ouessant to write a piece on birding culture.

Nidal Issa, Aurélie Sipos, journalist with *Le Parisien*, Gayle and Ralph, as the sun sets in Ouessant

PPS

Back from our Brittany travels now, I turn my attention to the next book–it’s taking shape, albeit not as quickly as I’d like. I guess you could say I’ve taken to the slower pace in Provence:)

Ahoy, maties, let’s go Haute Savoie!

A sunny September weekend on stunning Lac Annecy, Haute-Savoie, France, near Geneva

Sailboats drift leisurely across Lac Annecy

This dramatic and dreamy northeast sector of France snuggled into Switzerland is under a four-hour drive from our home in Saint-Rémy. For a week this month, we lived a magical alpine fantasy from a pied-à-terre in the tiny town of Veyrier-du-Lac, waking up to the glorious vision that is Lake Annecy, home to the quaint canal-crossed, cobble-stoned medieval city of Annecy, nicknamed the “Venice of the Alps.”

Pont des Amours–Lovers Bridge–in romantic Annecy

Hemmed in on one side by the towering Alps, this strikingly clear, deep turquoise lake—the third largest in France at 27 square kilometers, not counting Lake Geneva which it shares with Switzerland—is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream come true. A dizzying array of water sports are available to include swimming, paddle boarding, sailing, water skiing, canoeing and kayaking. And thanks to the 42-kilometer cycle path called the Voie Verte Loop that circles the lake, walking and biking are also huge draws. For height fiends, paragliding opportunities await!

Popular take-out place, Les Caprices d’Emilie

Happy to not fly through the air with the greatest of ease (and angst!), we opted for terra firma, bicycling and hiking, plus occasional dips in the pristine lake. The weather was unseasonably warm—in the high 80s F—so no matter where we were, we weren’t alone. In fact, over the weekend, it seemed the entire region came outside to soak up the rays, whether it be on the grassy slopes by the beaches, on the lake, or along the biking trail—everywhere was jammed to the gills. For example, we shared the cycle path with loads of folks on all forms of e-cruisers, Tour de France-like speedsters, young parents with kid-carriers attached to their bikes and elderly couples slowly peddling home after a grocery shop. You really had to faire attention!

But there was plenty of breathing space an hour’s drive away at Col de la Colombière (1,613 meters), where we’d driven for some hiking and birding in brisker temps. There we ran into a Swiss gentleman manning a spotting scope from a comfy camp chair who was kind enough to show us a notch in the peaks occupied by several ibex (wild goat) with their impressively long, sturdy curved horns. Birds were few but we did spot a dozen Griffon Vultures circling high above.

It’s a good thing this sensational recreational area provides outlets for calorie-burning because the region’s cuisine is all about sensationally rich cheesy dishes. Case in point is one fabulous signature casserole called tartiflette, starring potatoes, Reblochon fromage and bacon.

Another yummy attraction is the shredded potato fritters known here as beignets de pomme de terre, very similar to rösti. During our alpine birding adventure, we gobbled up a platter of them—along with a huge green salad and assortment of charcuterie—at a charming hut with a vast mountain view. When our plates held but a few crispy crumbs, the owner drifted by and asked if we’d like more, smiling as she cocked her head, expectantly. Bien sûre! my tasted buds hollered. Luckily, she didn’t hear that interior plea but rather our emphatic praise of the scrumptious dish.

At heavenly heights, the repast was pure heaven.

***

With the weather shifting to the next season, wishing you happy almost-autumn (or spring!). And, as always, stay safe, well and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

Can you spot the strolling wagtail at the edge of the pier?

How is the third book coming along, you ask? Two steps forward, one step back and then a side-ways tango around the room. Get the picture? Most certainly, the tale will keep me at the keyboard through the winter.

Snazzy Setting, Sumptuous Cuisine & More…near Saint-Rémy

The impressive dining room at Château d’Estoublon in Fontvieille.

Keys to the castle I didn’t expect, but an August déjeuner at the ravishing Château d’Estoublon promised treatment of the royal variety.

Château d’Estoublon produces both stunning wine and olive oil.

Since summer in the south of France translates into massive crowds, which, in turn, create whopper bouchons on the highways, Ralph and I typically opt for staying close to home until les vacances end and the kidlets return to the books. So to fun-up our staycation, we followed a tip from local buddies to lunch La Table d’Estoublon, situated in the small village of Fontvieille, just twenty minutes from Saint-Rémy.

The inventive olive oil display in the elegant boutique.

Years ago I’d enjoyed a delicious, unpretentious dining experience at the huge, historic wine and olive oil-producing estate—it covers some 200 hectares and dates from 1489—but it had closed after being sold. The new owners, who completely renovated the vast property, include two high-end investors, as well as a famous French couple—singer Carla Bruni and her husband, former French President Nicolas Sarkozy.

Would such a sophisticated proprietorship mean a buttoned-up, formal ambiance and an off-the-charts price tag? With a little digging on the internet, I discovered that, yes, one could easily spend a bundle on dinner. But, during the week, the gastronomic restaurant offers a brasserie-like special lunch menu,* boosting our optimism about a relaxed atmosphere. After perusing the online menu, which included some stellar-sounding dishes, it was clear that this would not be your typical local diner’s blue plate special. We signed up, hoping that we’d love what was on offer.

Grilled veggies accompany the smoked salmon starter

And so glad we took the chance. Not only did the welcome seem genuinely warm, but the service was super friendly throughout the meal. And what a meal it was. Thanks to talented Dutch chef, Wim Van Gorp, it was absolutely fab. I mean, knock-your-socks-off fab. The smoked salmon starter was bursting with vibrant, fresh flavors and beautifully presented, as was the cabillaud, the main dish of the day. And portions weren’t skimpy, which was a nifty surprise.

The austere scene depicted in the mural at the entrance to the chateau chapel entreaties the visitor to embrace the calm within.

Also unexpected were generous portions of scrumptious sides served family-style—another sign that the ambiance remain casual. Separate bowls of roasted cherry tomatoes from the château’s garden, chunky herbed mashed potatoes and crisp salad greens shimmering with a dazzling vinaigrette were for sharing.

Colorful windows contrast with the somber interior of the chapel.

If there’s simply not time for a lovely, lazy lunch, you can always go directly to the extraordinary boutique where you can sample the fine array of olive oils and taste the luscious wines. And on your way out, perhaps pause for a moment of quiet reflection in the ancient stone chapel with eye-popping stained glass windows, adorned with local fauna, to include my favorite bird, the flamant rose.

I may have gone for the lunch, but I detoured for the birds!

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Wherever you are this summer and whatever weather you’re experiencing, above all, stay safe.

Bises, Gayle

*The daily lunch special during the week is 38 euros for two courses and 45 euros for three, excluding beverages. Large carafes of chilled tap water are for the asking—une carafe d’eau, s’il vous plâit. During the warm afternoon on the terrace, we emptied three.

My third book is in the works, but early reports indicate it won’t be tamed easily. Please stay tuned!