Falling for the Fall Season in Provence

Vivid autumn colors decorate the landscape at the popular winery, Domaine de Valdition, outside of the bijou village of Eygalières, near Saint-Rémy

Flaming reds, brilliant oranges and deep, rich greens present a vibrant feast for the eyes as autumn comes into its own in Provence, making it a terrific time to savor the picturesque region.

Just-picked fruit at the local olive oil mill,
Le Moulin du Calanquet
Our sole olive tree yielded a measly single kilo this year, down 19 from last year. But, keeping with tradition, we took it to the cooperative anyway–made their day:)
A new front yard for the St. Rémy Tourist Office
Workers’s wellies taking a break.
Distant flamingos wade by a lighthouse near Les Saintes-Maries-de-Mer
The autumn sun illuminates the steeple of L’Église St. Martin, St. Rémy

While dipping in the now-nippy pool lacks appeal, cooler temps make hiking the hills, biking the canals, and birding in the Camargue especially delightful. It’s also the season for tracking the town’s beautification projects, harvesting olives, and meeting up with friends after the summer visitors have departed.

A stellar veggie pasta at Bistrot le France, Apt
An inventive and delicious salmon starter at Mas du Capoun/Chez Ju, Mollégès
A Saturday morning oyster bar pop-up by the upscale bakery Terre & Blé, St. Rémy
Exceptional duck dish with poached pear, Mas du Capoun/Chez Ju, Mollégès

The decked-out boutique at Domaine de Valdition, near St. Rémy
Delightful holiday gift ideas, Valdition
Mas des Infermières, near Ménèrbes, in the Luberon.

And, attending to the discovery to-do list. One destination that I’ve had my eye on for some time is the winery owned by the movie director Ridley Scott, located in the Luberon, near Ménèrbes, the small town where Peter Mayle lived—just 45 minutes from Saint-Rémy. After a terrific lunch with delightful friends in Apt at the charming Bistrot le France, we made a little detour to the winery, Mas des Infermières.

Peugeot bicycle from The House of Gucci
Tennis racquet & cricket bat featured in A Good Year
Spacesuits from various Scott films; Matt Damon wore the one on the far right in The Martian.

The spiffy contemporary tasting room doubles as a movie museum, decorated with posters from the acclaimed director’s impressive repertoire, along with various props. One of those is the Peugeot bicycle used in The House of Gucci and the tennis racquet and cricket bat featured in The Good Year, one of my favorite flicks. In fact, truth be told, I’ve watched it so many times, I know lots of lines by heart.

A canon from Ridley Scott’s latest film, Napoleon.

And the movie theme continues outside where a couple of canons from the director’s latest film, Napoleon, flank a stylishly understated stone fountain. (The film will play in St. Rémy this month–dubbed in French, but some showings will be in original English with French sub-titles.)

The beautiful boutique at Ridley Scott’s winery, Mas des Infermières.

But let’s not forget the wines! Of course, we sniffed, swirled, and sipped several and brought home a selection, which we’ll enjoy by the evening fire, letting our minds wander, enjoying the solitude, and relishing the slower pace that fall brings.

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Wherever you are, dear readers, stay safe, well, and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

PS

Mais oui, I’m plugging along on Book Three. Pieces are falling into place, and bit by bit a structure is emerging. The finish line isn’t in sight yet, but this autumn, hope springs eternal:)

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