Hiking High into the French Alps

Cicadas buzzing, rosé sipping, piscine splashing—all signal sizzling summertime in Provence. It’s an especially luscious season in the south of France, attracting loads of visitors and tourists, particularly this year with the Olympics in Paris. As residents, however, July and August are the months to forego the autoroute and stick to our own stomping grounds.

But pre-season—with the pleasant weather and lack of crowds—it’s a marvy time to explore further afield. Since June is my avian-loving husband’s birthday month, he had top pick. His choice—the Alps. At the higher altitudes he hoped to spot some special birds to include the Golden Eagle, White-winged Snow Finch, Rock Thrush and a feathered friend not graced with the most romantic name—the Bearded Vulture.

Based in the stunning, off-the-beaten-track region of Val-Cenis, near Champéry, we braved steep and skinny alpine roads, hiked high to lakeside refuges, marveled at the rugged alpine beauty, communed with cows, greeted goats, fell for marmots, savored stick-to-your-ribs mountain fare, as we birded along the way.

We searched long and hard for the Bearded Vulture to no avail. But the Golden Eagle paid us a visit on the first day at Col du Mont Cenis. And many other feathered friends did too like the brilliantly hued Rock Thrush. Plus, near the refuge at Plan du Lac, we lucked into front row seats at a prance-and-peck show staged by a pair of White-winged Snow Finches.

Val-Cenis may not be as glitzy as famous Chamonix or Mégève, but its natural beauty packs an equally powerful punch.

Stay healthy and hopeful and…have a Happy Summer!

Bises, Gayle

PS

Pleasures of Provence (aka The Beast) is giving me a run for my money–but I’m trying to keep up!