A Winter Wander in Aix-en-Provence

Known as the City of Art and Culture, Aix-en-Provence shines throughout the seasons. Even in winter when the temps drop and the sun plays hide and seek, this vibrant university city’s elegant architecture, bustling outdoor markets, charming cafes, and stellar art expos make it a delightful destination.

Last month during my day-long wander around this enticing city, I made the most of it, packing in as much as I could. After delivering my Bonne Année wishes to the terrific team at one of my absolute favorite book shops, Book in Bar, I strolled across the street to the fabulous Caumont Centre d’Art.

This winter the big draw is the exhibition, Regards, which showcases 80 stellar works by celebrated American photojournalist Steve McCurry—best known for his 1984 portrait of young Sarbat Gula in a Pakistani refugee camp. People, young and old, along with landscapes from the near and far east, are the main subjects. The show exceeded its hype—it was truly impressive and inspiring. (Regards runs through 25 March 2025.)

As I moseyed along Cours Mirabeau, I marveled at the elegant 17^th and 18^th century mansions, now much more visible through the leafless plane trees lining the avenue. Dodging customers at the busy market stalls displaying all matter of clothes and accessories, I stopped for a peek into the window of the historic patisserie, Maison Béchard–since 1870!–the place for calissons, the almond paste-based boat-shaped goody.

The flower market on charming Place de l’Hôtel de Ville was humming in front of the stately Hôtel de Ville and imposing Clock Tower. By afternoon, the buzz had calmed, the market cleared, making room for more café seating. It’s a super place for a coffee and people watching, plus in winter, sans tourists, snagging a table is a snap!

My in-the-know companion suggested lunch at the charming new café-book store combo, Le Chant du Monde. It was super! We both enjoyed yummy fresh veggie dishes, the gracious service, and the welcoming, casual vibe.

Before heading back to Saint-Rémy, I checked off several items on my to-do list but left time for an important stop. I just had to pop into the boulangerie Maison Saint-Honoré for a chewy, crusty baguette, which I knew Ralph would appreciate.

And most of the loaf made it home. Turned out, during the hour’s drive, a “mouse” managed a nibble—who could resist?

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Wherever you are, dear readers, be happy, healthy and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

PS

Update on Pleasures of Provence: The manuscript is now with a literary professional for a general review. When the comments come in, surely I’ll have my work cut out for me. Still, it’s progress!

PPS

After seeing a single Lesser Flamingo in December, the New Year brought TWO. The experts at the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau said it was yet unclear whether they were a pair. Hope springs eternal😊