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Flaming reds, brilliant oranges and deep, rich greens present a vibrant feast for the eyes as autumn comes into its own in Provence, making it a terrific time to savor the picturesque region.

While dipping in the now-nippy pool lacks appeal, cooler temps make hiking the hills, biking the canals, and birding in the Camargue especially delightful. It’s also the season for tracking the town’s beautification projects, harvesting olives, and meeting up with friends after the summer visitors have departed.

And, attending to the discovery to-do list. One destination that I’ve had my eye on for some time is the winery owned by the movie director Ridley Scott, located in the Luberon, near Ménèrbes, the small town where Peter Mayle lived—just 45 minutes from Saint-Rémy. After a terrific lunch with delightful friends in Apt at the charming Bistrot le France, we made a little detour to the winery, Mas des Infermières.

The spiffy contemporary tasting room doubles as a movie museum, decorated with posters from the acclaimed director’s impressive repertoire, along with various props. One of those is the Peugeot bicycle used in The House of Gucci and the tennis racquet and cricket bat featured in The Good Year, one of my favorite flicks. In fact, truth be told, I’ve watched it so many times, I know lots of lines by heart.

And the movie theme continues outside where a couple of canons from the director’s latest film, Napoleon, flank a stylishly understated stone fountain. (The film will play in St. Rémy this month–dubbed in French, but some showings will be in original English with French sub-titles.)

But let’s not forget the wines! Of course, we sniffed, swirled, and sipped several and brought home a selection, which we’ll enjoy by the evening fire, letting our minds wander, enjoying the solitude, and relishing the slower pace that fall brings.

***

Wherever you are, dear readers, stay safe, well, and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

PS

Mais oui, I’m plugging along on Book Three. Pieces are falling into place, and bit by bit a structure is emerging. The finish line isn’t in sight yet, but this autumn, hope springs eternal:)

Wild, rugged natural beauty—both fierce and gentle—reigns in Finistère, the most westerly department of Brittany. Here, in France’s “end-of-the-earth” region, rocky coastlines, crashing waves and blazing sunsets excite, while pristine sugar sand beaches, grazing sheep and seabirds floating on sea breezes invite quiet contemplation.

This stunning, other-worldly area lies about twelve hours’ drive from our home in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. But we didn’t rush the adventure, taking the opportunity to explore unknown territory along the way. Some terrific discoveries include Montauban, near Toulouse, some of the best seafood we’ve ever tasted and hard-to-spot feathered friends like the Red-billed Chough and sweet, little wren on the Île d’Ouessant (Ushant), a 90-minute ferry ride from our base in Le Conquet, west of Brest.

Here are some highlights:     

Finistère may be located well off the beaten path, but its striking landscapes, stellar cuisine, extraordinary bird life, plus friendly Breton hospitality make it very much worth a detour… and an extended stay.

Bises, Gayle

PS

Happy days! At long last, during our visit to the island of Ouessant, we met up with the very congenial expert birder and biodiversity engineer Nidal Issa, co-author of Where to Watch Birds in France (2019), which was a huge help to Ralph during his big birding year.

By chance we chatted with Le Parisien journalist, Aurélie Sipos, who was on assignment to Ouessant to write a piece on birding culture.

PPS

Back from our Brittany travels now, I turn my attention to the next book–it’s taking shape, albeit not as quickly as I’d like. I guess you could say I’ve taken to the slower pace in Provence:)

This dramatic and dreamy northeast sector of France snuggled into Switzerland is under a four-hour drive from our home in Saint-Rémy. For a week this month, we lived a magical alpine fantasy from a pied-à-terre in the tiny town of Veyrier-du-Lac, waking up to the glorious vision that is Lake Annecy, home to the quaint canal-crossed, cobble-stoned medieval city of Annecy, nicknamed the “Venice of the Alps.”  

Hemmed in on one side by the towering Alps, this strikingly clear, deep turquoise lake—the third largest in France at 27 square kilometers, not counting Lake Geneva which it shares with Switzerland—is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream come true. A dizzying array of water sports are available to include swimming, paddle boarding, sailing, water skiing, canoeing and kayaking. And thanks to the 42-kilometer cycle path called the Voie Verte Loop that circles the lake, walking and biking are also huge draws. For height fiends, paragliding opportunities await!  

Happy to not fly through the air with the greatest of ease (and angst!), we opted for terra firma, bicycling and hiking, plus occasional dips in the pristine lake. The weather was unseasonably warm—in the high 80s F—so no matter where we were, we weren’t alone. In fact, over the weekend, it seemed the entire region came outside to soak up the rays, whether it be on the grassy slopes by the beaches, on the lake, or along the biking trail—everywhere was jammed to the gills. For example, we shared the cycle path with loads of folks on all forms of e-cruisers, Tour de France-like speedsters, young parents with kid-carriers attached to their bikes and elderly couples slowly peddling home after a grocery shop. You really had to faire attention!

But there was plenty of breathing space an hour’s drive away at Col de la Colombière (1,613 meters), where we’d driven for some hiking and birding in brisker temps. There we ran into a Swiss gentleman manning a spotting scope from a comfy camp chair who was kind enough to show us a notch in the peaks occupied by several ibex (wild goat) with their impressively long, sturdy curved horns. Birds were few but we did spot a dozen Griffon Vultures circling high above.

It’s a good thing this sensational recreational area provides outlets for calorie-burning because the region’s cuisine is all about sensationally rich cheesy dishes. Case in point is one fabulous signature casserole called tartiflette, starring potatoes, Reblochon fromage and bacon.

Another yummy attraction is the shredded potato fritters known here as beignets de pomme de terre, very similar to rösti. During our alpine birding adventure, we gobbled up a platter of them—along with a huge green salad and assortment of charcuterie—at a charming hut with a vast mountain view. When our plates held but a few crispy crumbs, the owner drifted by and asked if we’d like more, smiling as she cocked her head, expectantly. Bien sûre! my tasted buds hollered. Luckily, she didn’t hear that interior plea but rather our emphatic praise of the scrumptious dish.

At heavenly heights, the repast was pure heaven.

***

With the weather shifting to the next season, wishing you happy almost-autumn (or spring!). And, as always, stay safe, well and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

PS

How is the third book coming along, you ask? Two steps forward, one step back and then a side-ways tango around the room. Get the picture? Most certainly, the tale will keep me at the keyboard through the winter.

Keys to the castle I didn’t expect, but an August déjeuner at the ravishing Château d’Estoublon promised treatment of the royal variety.

Since summer in the south of France translates into massive crowds, which, in turn, create whopper bouchons on the highways, Ralph and I typically opt for staying close to home until les vacances end and the kidlets return to the books. So to fun-up our staycation, we followed a tip from local buddies to lunch La Table d’Estoublon, situated in the small village of Fontvieille, just twenty minutes from Saint-Rémy.

Years ago I’d enjoyed a delicious, unpretentious dining experience at the huge, historic wine and olive oil-producing estate—it covers some 200 hectares and dates from 1489—but it had closed after being sold. The new owners, who completely renovated the vast property, include two high-end investors, as well as a famous French couple—singer Carla Bruni and her husband, former French President Nicolas Sarkozy.

Would such a sophisticated proprietorship mean a buttoned-up, formal ambiance and an off-the-charts price tag? With a little digging on the internet, I discovered that, yes, one could easily spend a bundle on dinner. But, during the week, the gastronomic restaurant offers a brasserie-like special lunch menu,* boosting our optimism about a relaxed atmosphere. After perusing the online menu, which included some stellar-sounding dishes, it was clear that this would not be your typical local diner’s blue plate special. We signed up, hoping that we’d love what was on offer.

And so glad we took the chance. Not only did the welcome seem genuinely warm, but the service was super friendly throughout the meal. And what a meal it was. Thanks to talented Dutch chef, Wim Van Gorp, it was absolutely fab. I mean, knock-your-socks-off fab. The smoked salmon starter was bursting with vibrant, fresh flavors and beautifully presented, as was the cabillaud, the main dish of the day. And portions weren’t skimpy, which was a nifty surprise.

Also unexpected were generous portions of scrumptious sides served family-style—another sign that the ambiance remain casual. Separate bowls of roasted cherry tomatoes from the château’s garden, chunky herbed mashed potatoes and crisp salad greens shimmering with a dazzling vinaigrette were for sharing.

If there’s simply not time for a lovely, lazy lunch, you can always go directly to the extraordinary boutique where you can sample the fine array of olive oils and taste the luscious wines. And on your way out, perhaps pause for a moment of quiet reflection in the ancient stone chapel with eye-popping stained glass windows, adorned with local fauna, to include my favorite bird, the flamant rose.

I may have gone for the lunch, but I detoured for the birds!

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Wherever you are this summer and whatever weather you’re experiencing, above all, stay safe.

Bises, Gayle

*The daily lunch special during the week is 38 euros for two courses and 45 euros for three, excluding beverages. Large carafes of chilled tap water are for the asking—une  carafe d’eau, s’il vous plâit. During the warm afternoon on the terrace, we emptied three.

PS

My third book is in the works, but early reports indicate it won’t be tamed easily. Please stay tuned!

Deep yellow Ville en Fête signage is ubiquitous around most village centers in high summer season. Detours are in store but so is fun–it’s party time, make no mistake. During July and August, most of France goes on holiday at some point, so whether a family opts to travel or enjoy a staycation, wherever they are, a festive spirit is bound to fill the air.

Footloose and fancy free, folks en vacances have plenty of entertaining options from sporty pursuits like cycling over the Alpilles or exhilarating diversions such as flying high in a glider or cultural amusements like the Festival d’Avignon. From 5-25 July this former papal capital offers a wide range of theater, music, and other entertaining events, many of which take place right on the street throughout the day.

And, if you’re up early to beat the heat, birds await! If you go with Merlin, a birding app you can download for free on your phone, you can identify a bird by using the sound ID. (There’s also a photo ID function.) When you hear birdsong, just tap to activate and in a few seconds Merlin will show you a photo of the singing bird, along with its name and other info. And now you can participate in a summer bird project sponsored by the NY Times and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. By reporting your sightings, you’ll help scientists understand what birds are where and when, which will aide them in better understanding the world of birds worldwide. For more info: https://www.nytimes.com/article/bird-watching-citizen-science.html.

Of course, the showstopper summer celebration is the Fête Nationale, on 14 July. Here in Saint-Rémy, the parking lot on Place de la République was transformed into a concert venue and part of the ring road was closed off, allowing restaurant tables to fill the rue. And just after dusk this year, for the first time in what seems like forever, spectacular fireworks exploded overhead!

But l’été can also mean chill time. If lessons in lazy have been learned, then activities that conserve energy might have the greatest appeal–tucking into a light meal, sipping a cool beverage, or paddling around the piscine…followed by a sieste in the shade, naturally.

Whatever you’re up to this summer, stay safe and cool!

Bises, Gayle

PS

For more on the increasing media attention birds are attracting, check out the fun YouTube video that’s part of the summer birding venture of The NY Times and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. It features charismatic Metro Desk editor Dodai Stewart interviewing writer/birder Amy Tan and NY birder/activist Christian Cooper. Cooper has written a profoundly poignant book, Better Living Through Birding: Notes from a Black Man in the Natural World, and also stars in a fascinating 6-part National Geographic series, Extraordinary Birder. Unbelievably, one entire segment takes place in my adopted hometown–Palm Springs, California!

The heat is on. In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, today the temp is to soar to a whopping 93F, which is downright steamy! It boils down to this—now’s the time to slow down, wind down, and all together power down.

Keeping cool and conserving energy will be the name of the game as we head into the heart of holiday time in the Hexagon sud. In anticipation of the elevated temps and the crowds about to descend, Ralph and I got out and about a bit, here in town, and also down the coast toward the Spanish border. Here’s a soupçon of the latest happenings:

Wishing you all a very happy, healthy and safe beginning to summer. Stay cool!

Bises, Gayle

PS

Ralph and I were invited to record a podcast about retired life in St. Rémy by the spirited and so-fun NY couple Gilen Chan and Gene Preudhomme who run RetireThere.com. We covered a wide range of topics which happily included both my books, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie and The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie. It went live yesterday! Listen to it here:

https://www.retirethere.com/e141-retire-in-saint-remy-de-provence-france/

Calling all foodies—come one, come all! The month of May is a fine time to rejoice in spring’s bounty in Provence. And this year, in particular, the season has taken on special meaning for les Padgetts.

After a hectic five-week visit to the US this spring, returning to the easy, gentle rhythms of everyday life in our little Provençal patch made our hearts go pitter patter. As if savoring the pleasures of Provence for the first time, we reveled in each new day here in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. But what exactly, we pondered, makes this place so alluring?

Pinpointing what keeps us loving life here may be an impossible task, but near the top of the list rests an unlikely contender—constant decision-making. But how can seemingly never-ending deliberations be joyful? Well, when the subject centers on luscious consumables, these daily demands instantly become delicious delights. Yes, indeed, when it comes to local bounty—and how and where to enjoy them—we are spoiled for choice. Here are some of the delectable dilemmas Provence presents.

La boulangerie. Flaky croissants, pains au chocolate, and chaussons de pomme, apple-filled “slippers,” are yummy classics. Rustic, crusty baguettes arrive in various lengths, along side round loaves prepared with different flours. More hearty types laden with grains have their place too, including a super dense version called Pain Nordique. And the list goes on.  

Weekly outdoor marché: Wednesday is the big market day here in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The food stalls take over Place Plessier, in front of the stately Hôtel de Ville, completely enveloping the graceful Fontaine de Quatre Dauphins. From the oversized bowls of olives smothered in herbs de Provence, garlic or exotic spices, to the piles of seasonal veggies recently harvested, to an array of fragrant cheeses, to all sorts of freshly caught poissons, and to glistening chickens rotating on spits, everything is here to satisfy your taste buds. Choices, choices!  

Olive oil producers: Olive groves are ubiquitous in Provence, and, naturally, so are olive oil producers. In our neck of the woods, favorites include the nearby Moulin du Calanquet and Moulin Castelas in Maussane. But olive oil isn’t simply olive oil. At the former enterprise, several varieties are on offer such as Aglandau, Picholine, Salonenque and Grossane, each with its own subtle, yet distinctive flavor. At the latter, in addition to their “regular” olive oils, aromatic versions imbued with various herbs/flavors are available. Choices include Espelette pepper, lemongrass, and thyme and rosemary. One stunning choice is infused with basil and mint—terrific on salads and beyond.

La pâtisserie: And for dessert–a strawberry-topped tart? Multi-layered Napoleon? Or perhaps a chocolate éclair? Local pastry shops (plus most boulangeries) offer such wide variety of tempting treats, if you are a “sweet” person, you’ve got your work cut out for yourself. For something extra special, pop into the adorable Maison Gaillardet for a heavenly Troprovençale, offered in several flavors. The citron version is phenomenal.

Domaines de Vin: So how about le bon vin to accompany your meal? Wineries in the area are plentiful, but here are some favorites. A few minutes outside of St. Rémy, you’ll find Domaine du Val de L’Oule, and up and over the Alpilles, at the base of Les Baux, resides wonderful Mas Sainte-Berthe. Domaine de Valdition—with a snazzy, chic boutique right in the tasting room—never fails to please. And Domaine du Grand Fontanille, direction Arles, always satisfies. But let’s not forget other excellent local wineries such as Domaine Milan, Château Romanin, Domaine Hauvette, Domaine d’Eole, and Domaine des Terres Blanches, to name a few! So which color, then—rosé, blanc or rouge? Decisions, decisions!

When preparing a sumptuous repast chez vous is not in the cards, a heady selection of cafés, bistrots and restaurants awaits! Depending on what you are you in the mood for (and your budget), St. Rémy and environs will deliver. Something veggie-centric and inventive—Maison Favier. For salads and crepes of all types, Crêperie Lou Planet on beautiful Place Favier. For a bistrot ambience with sophisticated flavors, it’s Mas du Capoun Chez Ju in Mollégès. For an upscale experience, L’Opale at Domaine Pierre Blanche in Eygalières is a fine choice. So many flavors to savor and so little time. Eateries we have yet to try, a couple of promising newcomers—Chapeau de Paille and Têtes d’Ail, both in St. Rémy, happily, a short walk away from chez nous.

With all the extraordinary taste choices available, identifying your preferences and places may require some practice. But chances are, you’ll put in the time to do what you have to do to satisfy your inquisitive palate. Eventually, you’ll be ordering confidently—without holding up the waiter or the line—a gesture much appreciated by all. Bon appétit!

Bises, Gayle

PS

While in the US, I loved seeing the hummingbirds and roadrunners, but I missed my favorite bird, the flamant rose. But soon we’ll be making a jaunt down to the Camargue for a very happy reunion.

Move it on out! From urban centers to rural zones, springtime brings a welcome surge of vibrant energy. After a sleepy winter hibernation, it seems everyone is ready to kick up their heels.

For Ralph and me, this translates to a California visit. But before we hopped on the plane in Marseille, I was energized to pry myself out of Saint-Rémy and over to the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence for the David Hockney exhibition—compiled with works on loan from Tate Modern Museum in London. Purported to be an absolute must-see, the expo was, indeed, a showstopper. The extensive collection of knock-your-socks-off works featuring brash and bold colors was captivating. I especially appreciated the four-panel folding screen called Caribbean Tea Time (1987).”

Once on the other side of the pond in the desert community of Palm Springs—where I went to high school and we owned a place for a while—we’re busy catching up with friends and family and reacquainting ourselves with our former stomping grounds, with walks and bike rides around town. Must-do city experiences include checking on the oversized statue of Marilyn Monroe, who was “discovered” in Palm Springs, relishing Mexican meals at Ruben and Ozzy’s (super fish and shrimp tacos), La Perlita (delish chiles rellenos) and meandering through the Palm Springs Art Museum. Built into the side of the mountain, the unique structure–designed by Stewart Williams—is quite fitting for the marvelous artwork it houses. No matter how many times I’ve visited, I always linger by the Calder mobile, Picasso’s bronze rooster, Paul Jenkins’ “Phenomena Wind Off Big Sur,” and the remarkable monumental “basket” made of squashed aluminum cans by Gerald Clarke, a Native American (Cahuilla).

Another highlight of our visit includes a startling new development. A former golf course has been converted into a nature park called Prescott Preserve, replete with walking trails and habitat drawing incredible birdlife. On our first visit, we saw exuberant hummingbirds, the scarlet Vermillion Flycatcher, and the polka dot-breasted Northern Flicker, a type of woodpecker. And before we depart, we’ll venture out to the new Oswit Canyon Preserve (south Palm Springs), which was recently saved from development.

From its Native American roots to its glitzy, celebrity playground reputation, there’s no question that Palm Springs is multi-dimensional. During our brief visit, it’s gratifying to not only enjoy our fave activities but also to peel back some layers and see my enticing and dynamic “hometown” in new light.

Happy Spring to all!

Bises, Gayle

PS

The Birdwatcher’s Wife has a vibrant new cover, which offers a clearer idea of the story and its French setting. (We’ll always treasure the beautiful painting–by Deborah K. Ahern–of the strolling avocets on the first cover!)

PPS

At the end of January, Tuula Rampont, a journalist with International Living, interviewed Ralph and me about life in France and my books. You can watch it here on YouTube:

https://internationalliving.com/video-a-long-distance-love-affair-with-provence-france

Come one and all to experience the spectacular immersive sound and light show now playing at Carrières des Lumières, a former interior quarry turned art venue, just a stone’s throw from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Displayed on the massive limestone walls, fabulous digital exhibitions devoted to major artists have been wowing spectators since 2012.

This year’s extravaganza, From Vermeer to Van Gogh: The Dutch Masters, concentrates on the Golden Age of Dutch art during the 17^th Century. In addition to works by the two giants–Vermeer and Van Gogh–famous works by Pieter de Hooch, Frans Hals, Rembrandt, and Jacob Van Ruisdael are also featured.

As if all that star power wasn’t enough, the multi-sensory art history lesson also includes a short program that sweeps the viewer into the 20^th century. Mondrian, Architect of Colors, traces the journey of Dutch artist, Piet Mondrian (1872-1944), from his native Holland to New York City. In this vibrant metropolis crammed with soaring skyscrapers, far removed from austere northern European vistas, Mondrian explores minimalism—famously portrayed as geometric power grids in bold primary colors.

While viewing the rich worlds comprised of interior and exterior scenes as interpreted by these Dutch masters, the impact of the experience is greatly enhanced by a booming, varied sound track. Rossini’s William Tell Overture one minute and Nina Simone’s rousing rendition of Feeling Good the next. Be prepared to be astonished!

And bring a wrap—it’s chilly in there.

Happy spring—just around the corner!

Bises, Gayle

PS

What a privilege it was to attend the March “literary lunch” hosted by the international group BritsNîmes to chat about my books, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie and The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie. The exceptionally congenial Yvette Judge conducted the lively interview—a delightful experience!

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways…

As La fête de Saint-Valentin approaches, l’amour fills the air. Maybe that’s why Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s opening lines to her famous sonnet flashed across my mind as Ralph and I strolled through Saint-Rémy’s centre ville earlier this week. The soft golden light that illuminated the Hôtel de Ville and the graceful Fontaine de Quatre Dauphins gave me pause. This beautiful, serene scene reminded me that after more than a decade living in this delightful commune nestled into the base of les Alpilles, its many charms continue to tug at my heartstrings.

As the seasons shift, and the tourists (and the wicked mistral!) blow in and out, this petite ville of ten thousand residents ever evolves. For example, this winter the Tourist Office is undergoing a make-over, along with the main south-bound road, the fiercely bumpy D5, which formerly put shock absorbers to the test. But, it is the many enduring constants that keep my love affair with this enchanting town fired up. Here are just a few of the highlights.

Year-round town: With its vibrant café culture, fab Wednesday market—filled with dazzling local produce—art galleries, boutiques, cinema, boulangeries, and special events like the popular transhumance, which involves a parade of thousands of sheep and goats around the ring road, there’s always something to grab your attention.

Nature at the doorstep: From bustling centre-ville, it’s just a twenty-minute stroll to the edge of the Parc Regional des Alpilles, with all its walking trails, sensational views, and, of course, bird life. It’s a haven for cyclists, hikers, and runners.

Beautiful centre-ville: Charming squares, replete with pretty fountains, like Place Plessier and Place Favier—home to the superb Musée des Alpilles—offer inviting spaces to slow down, admire the intriguing architecture, and people-watch.

More than a pretty face: Aside from the enviable setting and enchanting architecture, Saint-Rémy enjoys a rich history that includes the Greeks and Romans, native son Nostradamus, the opera composer Charles Gounod, and Van Gogh. The Dutch artist painted his famous The Starry Night during his stay at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole (1889).

Proximity to world class destinations: One hour brings you to Aix-en-Provence and just twenty minutes to Avignon to the north and Arles to the west. And let’s not forget the magnificent wetlands of the Camargue, home to the famous white horses, bulls, and, of course, flocks of marvelous bird life like the Greater Flamingo, my favorite bird.

I’ve only scratched the surface here but perhaps now you’ll want to come take a peek for yourself? Beware—if you do, you might be inclined to prolong your stay.

Joyeuse Fête de Saint-Valentin!

Bises, Gayle

PS

A week ago Ralph and I had the privilege to go birding in the Camargue with an exceptional avian expert, the author of Where to Watch Birds in France, which was a huge help to Ralph during his big birding year (2019). Congenial Jean-Yves Barnagaud took time out from his incredibly busy schedule as a researcher/professor in Montpellier to meet us for an outing, which included sightings of the Bewick’s Swan, Curlew and Pintail. Plus we enjoyed a “three-course” pique-nique—in a bird blind! Though the mistral was howling, it was an experience to treasure.