Snazzy Setting, Sumptuous Cuisine & More…near Saint-Rémy

Keys to the castle I didn’t expect, but an August déjeuner at the ravishing Château d’Estoublon promised treatment of the royal variety.

Since summer in the south of France translates into massive crowds, which, in turn, create whopper bouchons on the highways, Ralph and I typically opt for staying close to home until les vacances end and the kidlets return to the books. So to fun-up our staycation, we followed a tip from local buddies to lunch La Table d’Estoublon, situated in the small village of Fontvieille, just twenty minutes from Saint-Rémy.

Years ago I’d enjoyed a delicious, unpretentious dining experience at the huge, historic wine and olive oil-producing estate—it covers some 200 hectares and dates from 1489—but it had closed after being sold. The new owners, who completely renovated the vast property, include two high-end investors, as well as a famous French couple—singer Carla Bruni and her husband, former French President Nicolas Sarkozy.

Would such a sophisticated proprietorship mean a buttoned-up, formal ambiance and an off-the-charts price tag? With a little digging on the internet, I discovered that, yes, one could easily spend a bundle on dinner. But, during the week, the gastronomic restaurant offers a brasserie-like special lunch menu,* boosting our optimism about a relaxed atmosphere. After perusing the online menu, which included some stellar-sounding dishes, it was clear that this would not be your typical local diner’s blue plate special. We signed up, hoping that we’d love what was on offer.

And so glad we took the chance. Not only did the welcome seem genuinely warm, but the service was super friendly throughout the meal. And what a meal it was. Thanks to talented Dutch chef, Wim Van Gorp, it was absolutely fab. I mean, knock-your-socks-off fab. The smoked salmon starter was bursting with vibrant, fresh flavors and beautifully presented, as was the cabillaud, the main dish of the day. And portions weren’t skimpy, which was a nifty surprise.

Also unexpected were generous portions of scrumptious sides served family-style—another sign that the ambiance remain casual. Separate bowls of roasted cherry tomatoes from the château’s garden, chunky herbed mashed potatoes and crisp salad greens shimmering with a dazzling vinaigrette were for sharing.

If there’s simply not time for a lovely, lazy lunch, you can always go directly to the extraordinary boutique where you can sample the fine array of olive oils and taste the luscious wines. And on your way out, perhaps pause for a moment of quiet reflection in the ancient stone chapel with eye-popping stained glass windows, adorned with local fauna, to include my favorite bird, the flamant rose.

I may have gone for the lunch, but I detoured for the birds!

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Wherever you are this summer and whatever weather you’re experiencing, above all, stay safe.

Bises, Gayle

*The daily lunch special during the week is 38 euros for two courses and 45 euros for three, excluding beverages. Large carafes of chilled tap water are for the asking—une  carafe d’eau, s’il vous plâit. During the warm afternoon on the terrace, we emptied three.

PS

My third book is in the works, but early reports indicate it won’t be tamed easily. Please stay tuned!