Côte d’Azur Rendez-vous

Twisting my arm to visit Nice is hardly necessary. In September, or any time of year, really, the splendiferous seaside city on the Côte d’Azur covers the three Es with ease–enchanting, enthralling and enticing its way into your heart. Whether it be the stunning architecture, inviting climate, dazzling Mediterranean location, buzzy ambiance, markets, vibrant cultural scene, or the diverse cuisine, one way or the other, this south-of-France metropolis is sure to capture your imagination one way or the other.

The daunting traffic, however, is not likely to be on anybody’s hit list. So when Ralph and I made a plan to rendezvous with a wonderful friend who was passing through the big city, we relied on the train to take us in—from Biot, a little town less than a half hour’s ride west of Nice.

Staying in charming Valbonne–about two and a half hours from Saint-Rémy–we drove through the country to the Biot gare in 30 minutes, parked the car in a big lot next to the sea at no charge, hopped on the train, and presto, a few minutes later we arrived in Nice.

Though our visit was short, it was oh-so-sweet. First we met our spirited writer friend Rena Pederson at the brand new English language bookstore called Around the World. It’s an off-shoot of the Librairie Masséna, “One of France’s leading independent bookshops,” according to The Connexion (2 Aug. ’24). We had a lovely time chatting with the charming British manager, Amy Trowell, and snooping through the variety of titles.

The rooftop terrace of Bocca Nissa, a restaurant recently recommended in a New York Time’s article, was our choice for lunch. Not only was the repast scrumptious but there was an unexpected treat. Flitting about the trees on the terrace was a cute birdie called an Indian Silverbill, a new bird for our 2024 list.

Shopping at Galeries Lafayette, strolling the Promenade des Anglais, having coffee in the Marriott Méridien lounge—chatting up a storm along the way—occupied the rest of the afternoon. Good-byes are never easy but we were so pleased with ourselves that we’d made our rendezvous happen, smiles prevailed.

Back in Valbonne, we had a terrific meal at the welcoming Relais de la Poste, followed by a very badly timed walk back to the hotel during a determined downpour. Yep, we got a bit damp!

But the next morning the soleil returned, illuminating the outdoor market stalls that envelope Valbonne village each Friday. And happily those sunbeams kept us company throughout our trek to chez nous, en Provence.

***

Wishing you all the best for happiness, health and hope.

Bises, Gayle

PS

Pleasures of Provence is gaining traction—hoorah!

PPS

If you’re a true crime fan, check out Rena’s latest book–the page-turning whodunit, King of Diamonds, about a Dallas jewel thief who worked throughout the 60s and was never caught. Nor were the gems found.