Keeping cool by the pool at the Hôtel Bleu in Carry-le-Rouet, near the French Riviera
Counting the côtes in La Belle France isn’t the quick trick you might think.
The offshore islands and overseas territories aside, the country’s mainland boasts 3,400 kilometers (2,100 miles approx.) of coastline, comprising three dozen named côtes. Bordering the North Sea/English Channel, Atlantic, and Mediterranean, they range in length from the Côte Basque, measuring less than a kilometer, to the Côte d’Argent (the Silver Coast), at 230+ kilometers.
Scrumptious asparagus starter at La Calanque Bleue The seaside setting of La Calanque Bleue in Sausset-le-PinsSucculent duck main courseStuffed squid at La Calanque BleueOctopus paired with ratatouille at Le Trident
Though not the longest, the Côte d’Azur is by far the most famous slice of French coast, commonly known as the French Riviera. It begins somewhere around Saint-Tropez—the Western boundary isn’t specific—and passes east through a series of picture-postcard-pretty towns such as Villefranche-sur-Mer, Antibes, and Menton, extending to the Italian border.
A thousand shades of blue along the Côte BleueCrystal clear waters beckon swimmersBoats awaiting a cruise captain
Sitting in the western shadows of its famous neighbor, but spectacularly shimmery in its own right, is the Côte Bleue, the Blue Coast. It’s the second shortest stretch of named coastline at 25-30 kilometers, but includes some dazzling coastal scenes—in the most brilliant of blue hues.
Just west of NiolonFrom the walking path west of Carry-le-RouetView from a residential area on the eastern side of Carry
One fun way to get the best bird’s-eye views is to hop aboard the Train Bleu, the Blue Train, that runs back and forth between Miramas and Marseille. It’s not a special, dolled-up tourist carriage but an ordinary train that offers an extraordinary visual experience. But just as the blank black views of the tunnels whizz right by, so do the most striking scenes. There’s no pausing for the photo ops of the stellar stretches since it’s a working train, after all, with a schedule to keep. But if you have the time, you can buy a one-day pass and ride around all you want.
Enticing view from the Train BleuVibrant blossoms near Carry-le-RouetCharming train station at Carry-le-Rouet
Ralph and I were staying in Carry-le-Rouet for a few days, so we hopped on the train there, heading east. It only took a few minutes to reach our destination, the teensy enclave of Niolon, but the sparkling azure inlets were divine. After hiking along the coast in both directions, and a picnic lunch in the shade, with a glistening cove for our view, we reboarded the train. We didn’t disembark in Carry-le-Rouet, but kept on going to La Couronne, where we walked through town, down to the beach. There we had our pick of cafes to enjoy a cool drink, right on the sand.
“Wrapping Bonbon” sculpture by female artist, Laurence Jenkell, Le Hôtel BleuInfinity pool overlooks Carry-le-Rouet’s pleasure boat portCarry-le-Rouet begins to twinkle at duskResidents watch a World Cup match in front of the casino.
Riding the rails may have been the novelty highlight of our getaway, but there was more to our mini adventure, under 90 minutes from home. We saw gannets dive for dinner in the leisure boat port at Carry, swam in an infinity pool overlooking the town, tried to eat our weight in fresh seafood, and watched France conquer Senegal in a World Cup match—en plein air—thanks to the projection on screens covering both sides of a very large van parked in front of the casino, just steps from the sea. An area filled with folding chairs was cordoned off, but no tickets needed. Friendly gendarmes invited us to take a seat alongside elders, youngsters, and everyone in between. With each roar of the crowd, we were easily swept up in the frenzy of the community celebration, the breeze balmy, a starry night in the making. A belle vie portrait, to be sure.
Carry-le-Rouet from the seaside walking pathBlue sea view from the Hôtel BleuTiny sandy beach of Carry-le-Rouet
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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
The gannet takes top honors for bird of the month for July. Love watching it torpedo dive.
Photo of a diving gannet by Olivier Dugornay (Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0)
PPS
On June 26, a brief excerpt of Pleasures of Provence was narrated by Lucy Bickley as part of the Human Voices Only project on Instagram. The purpose of the international event was to shine a spotlight on the importance of using human voices—rather than AI-generated voices—in narrated books. I was honored to participate in this worthy cause, and I hope that the future holds audio versions of at least one, if not all, of my books—lending the works the intended natural emotional dimension, narrated by an actual human. Let’s see, how about Sandra Bullock?
The Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz from Pointe Sainte-Barbe
Surf’s up in Saint-Jean-de-Luz—and not just at the beach.
La Grande Plage, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, is steps from downtown, packed with boutiques and cafes.
This seafaring city near the Spanish border is awash with a vibrant let’s-go-and-do energy. No matter whether you’re atop a board, catching a wave on La Grande Plage or perched on a bistro stool, people-watching in Place Louis XIV, a distinct dynamism is sure to engulf you.
Signage in both French and Basque announces the presence of a dolphin in the bay, which we saw!A Basque producer of the famous Espelette peppers
This buzzy vibe may be due in no small part to the area’s unique cultural mix, and specifically to its bilingual context. The Basque cultural region may have fuzzy demarcations, stretching from Spain’s northeastern corner across into southwestern France, but its distinctive language—with no known linguistic relatives—is clearly marked pretty much everywhere. From traffic signs to restaurant menus, both French and Basque languages are on display. This integral part of the fabric of life here lends the area a formidable layer of substance, along with an exotic, spirited dimension.
The beautiful Bay of Saint-Jean-de-LuzThe surf at Plage Erromardie
That spunky vitality is most obvious at the shore. The natural setting is so jaw-droppingly gorgeous, your first instinct may be to jump up and down and clap your hands like a little kid, just before scooting down to the sand to dig your toes in—as well you should. Stretching for about a kilometer, the wide beach invites all types of merrymakers. There’s plenty of room to throw Frisbees, build sandcastles, or walk laps barefoot through the ripples. You can also loop around along the wide elevated promenade, where you’ll share the space with baby buggies and selfie-snapping tourists.
View from the terrace of the snazzy Grand Hôtel Spa & Thalasso, right on the promenade.
Either route you take, in this zeal-filled town, you’ll be treated to endless scenes of people on the move, jogging, hiking, cycling, and engaged in all manner of water sports, including waist-deep water walking—called longe-côte. Whatever the endeavor, all parties are privileged to soak up the superlative views of the crescent bay, hugged by emerald mountains and, along the promenade, distinctive Basque architecture.
Busy vendor at Les HallesNeed a Vitamin C fix? Take your pick at Les HallesFish fresh from the sea at Les Halles
And after the thrill of experiencing all the energy—as a participant or a mere observer—nourishment is de rigueur. And what a stellar array of options there are in this foodie town. If a picnic is in order, head to the covered market, Les Halles, for supplies, or if it’s Tuesday or Friday, stock up at the bustling outdoor stalls encircling Les Halles.
Customers await their turn at their favorite stalls.Happy hubbub on market days
For a more formal meal, choose from one of the countless bistros and gourmet restaurants in town or along the coast for dazzling views. The meal that sent us over the moon was at Chez Mattin, located in a residential area in Ciboure, across La Nivelle River, on the south side of the port.
A reserved table at Chez Mattin awaits its lucky guestsThe unassuming facade of Chez Mattin belies its stellar cuisine
I’d made a lunch reservation online at the historic, family-run establishment—in business since the 1970s—but upon arrival, Madame Niquet found no record of it. And, there were no unclaimed tables—the place was packed. (I found out later my reservation hadn’t actually been confirmed.) But when the proactive owner learned it was our anniversary, she took no time hustling up a temporary table, placing it by the bar, close to the hustle-bustle, which added to the festive mood.
Chez Mattin of yesteryear.Delicious fish course at Chez Mattin Amuse-bouche at Chez MattinThe day’s St. Pierre catch rests on creamy celeriacCookbook by Chez Mattin owners Michel et Céline Niquet.
A rich soupe de poisson amuse-bouche served in a shot glass preceded our entrée of sardines, prepared two ways—grilled and pan-fried. Both were extraordinary in their simplicity, as were our main dishes. No fussy flower petals precisely positioned with tweezers here. Our whitefish dishes were unbelievably fresh, surrounded by an array of colorful seasonal veggies, resting in either a spiced-just-right celeriac emulsion or a velvety bouillabaisse sauce. These dishes offered a satisfying depth of flavor that pushed our savor sensors into high gear. We lingered as long as we could, enjoying the convivial ambiance, until the last sip of our wine. Thankfully, our bike ride home was downhill, so we cruised carefree and chuffed, feeling like we’d hit a culinary jackpot, a fitting way to celebrate our special day.
A Great Egret saunters through the Nature Reserve Marais d’OrxA rainbow of colorful espadrilles for tiny feetOne of the Jean-Vier shops in downtown St. Jean de Luz
The week went by in a flash, filled with hiking up to the Pointe Sainte-Barbe and over to the Plage d’Erromardie, making a birding excursion to the Réserve Naturelle Nationale du Marais d’Orx, the nature park north of Biarritz, St. Jean de Luz’s glitzy neighbor, cycling on our foldables all over town, and meandering through the network of pedestrian streets, checking out the boutiques. (I loved Bayona for artisanal espadrilles and Maison Jean-Vier for authentic stripes-centric Basque textiles. The historic company also has a large concept store with furniture close to Guéthary).
The lush grounds of Park VictoriaPark Victoria’s distant view of La Rhune mountain peak
And, of course, we made the most of the gigantic pool at the inviting enclave of Park Victoria, where we were staying. Though the grounds were lush and our apartment stylishly design-forward, a sea view remained out of sight. Mesmerizing by day and night, that undulating vista called to us relentlessly throughout our stay, which just has to mean that we will be back.
Another enchanting sunset over the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz
And on that happy occasion, I’ll ensure our digs come with a vue mer, and I’ll schedule our visit better, allowing us to be on site by Sunday morning. This trip, that was the only time period we weren’t in St. Jean, so I missed a fave activity—roaming the outdoor market in Ciboure, with vendors selling non-food items like textiles, ceramics, and baskets.
Festive staffers ready to take orders at the Festival AndalouDancers putting their fringed costumes to the ultimate test
Despite my flawed planning regarding the restaurant booking and market miss, we reveled in our St. Jean sojourn, and it ended on a super festive note. The night before our departure, we received a great send-off, marked by the Festival Andalou (Andalusian Festival), a salute to southern Spain. The multi-day event featured colorful flamenco dancers, concerts, and plenty of paella, tapas, and ice-cold cerveza. Olé!
Twinkly lights illuminate the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz
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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
The bird of the month for June is the normally shy Little Bittern that paid Ralph a rare visit the other day at l’Étang des Aulne, about a 40-minute drive from Saint-Rémy.
PPS
Book News
Happily, my first book, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie, is enjoying a bit of attention lately. So in a few days, it will be part of a Kindle Countdown promotion on Amazon. On 15 June, the cost will be 99 cents and then increase by about a dollar daily until it reaches its regular price of $5.99. If you (or a Francophile friend) prefer to read on Kindle and haven’t read it yet, this would be a fine time! Passion for Provence on Amazon.com
As for Pleasures of Provence, it is making its way around the world in unexpected ways. Devoted fans from the South Pacific have arranged for an inscribed copy to be shepherded across the seas by special envoy, taking several weeks, including a stopover at a South American embassy. What other gratifying surprise might be in store—a call from Oprah? Well, while we’re dreaming, might as well go big, n’est-ce pas?😊 Pleasures of Provence on Amazon.com
Stunning Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, about 40 minutes from Saint-Rémy.
Showing off our Provençal playground to visitors always promises oohs and ahhs of delight. And that’s just me. Playing tour guide in and around Saint-Rémy gives me the opportunity to see my adopted home from different perspectives, which is gratifying in fresh new ways.
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue shimmers under sunny skies.The renown Café de France, Isle -sur-la-SorgueIsle-sur-la-Sorgue, set in a web of canals
But donning my host hat means giving the travelers the best experience. And a key trick to guests getting the biggest kick possible out of the area’s treasures is tailoring the tours to match their preferred interests.
A collection of straw hats as outdoor decor on Place Favier, Saint-Rémy’s bustling Place PellissierA fave home interiors store
Happily, my latest “tourees” were devoted foodies, marketers, and art-and-architecture lovers like me, and also shared my penchant for hiking the hills. So, designing an itinerary was a snap.
The stylish wares at La Maison JouvaudTempting treats at Jouvaud
We covered a good amount of territory in a few days, aiming for a rich, yet unrushed roster of activities—always staying flexible and keeping tabs on energy levels. After their Lyon to Arles river cruise, my buddies were anxious to get out and about. To that end, we caught up as we ambled around old-town St. Rémy, admiring the pretty squares—particularly Place Favier and Place Pellissier—and pausing at art galleries and boutiques. We strolled up to the sanitarium Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh stayed (1889-1890)—and painted The Starry Night—and walked across the foothills of the Alpilles, taking in one of the best overviews of the town.
A starter at Le Capoun–mais oui, asparagus season is here!A scrumptious pork plat principal, Le CapounA vegan dish at Mesa, Aix-en-ProvenceOven-melted goat cheese on toasted baguette rounds, ready to top garden salads Chez Padgett
When the weather cooperated, we enjoyed apèros on the terrace and lingered over lunch featuring salades de chèvre chaud. Luckily, the day that Mother Nature decided to throw a “damp” tantrum, we had reservations for a special déjeuner at Le Capoun.
A photograph of Picasso merged with a self-portrait at Carrières des LumièresThe poster for the Picasso-Kahlo expoA self-portrait of Frida Kaho
Other highlights were Saint-Rémy’s fabulous Wednesday outdoor market and Carrières des Lumières, for the immersive sound-and-light show starring Picasso and the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Excursions to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Aix-en-Provence rounded out the visit.
A vineyard view from the foothills of the Alpilles, above Saint-Rémy
Then came the hard part—saying au revoir to my très chères amies. But we made memories that we’ll treasure…forever.
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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
When May rolls around, so do Rollers—remarkable!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence is making its way around the world. I always love to hear how the story resonates with readers, so if you have a favorite part (or parts!), please do let me know. And if you’d like to share your enthusiasm on Amazon or Goodreads, that would be marvelous. Many, many heartfelt thanks in advance for taking the time for that—it means a ton.
Cover of Pleasures of Provence, to be published 20 March 2026.
Guess what the first day of spring brings–Pleasures of Provence: A Quest for the Secret to Joie de Vivre in La Belle France! And I am bursting at the seams with delight…and relief. If you’ve been following this blog, you know I thought it was unlikely that my third “baby” would see the light of day this month. It appears, however, that a surprise is in store for 20 March.
Here’s the book description:
A dream life filled with adventure, rosé, and sunshine in the South of France is paradise found … until a brush with the law threatens it all.
For American expats Gayle and Ralph, losing their beloved belle vie in a Provençal village is unimaginable. Determined to protect this Frenchified good life, Gayle embarks on a quest to define the essence of the allure: the secret to joie de vivre.
Unlocking the mystery leads to treks by boats, bikes, and boots across the country’s diverse regions. The intrepid couple explores striking landscapes, navigates the quirks of French culture, and indulges in delectable cuisine. From bustling markets in charming villages to blockbuster expos in the City of Light, each chapter is a feast for the senses, brimming with humor, warmth, and unforgettable characters.
These escapades ultimately reveal the elusive answer Gayle seeks: The Pleasure Principles. They’re uncomplicated but require practice—with a French twist.
More than a travel memoir, this enchanting book is a heartfelt and witty journey into the soul of Provence and beyond. A celebration of la belle vie, it’s a delightful read for anyone who loves French adventures, food, and finding joie de vivre moments.
If your interest is piqued and you take a chance on the book, I hope you thoroughly enjoy the read. It will be available through any bookstore very soon, but it’s debuting on Amazon in paperback and Kindle on Friday. (At the moment, only the Kindle is on pre-order.) Here’s the link: Pleasures of Provence. Please feel free to share my good news with your Francophile friends:)
Thank you, dear readers, for your support of this blog. It’s my heartfelt hope that my missives from the South of France deliver some spirit-boosting moments, adding to your joie de vivre.
Wherever you are, all the best for happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Bearded Reedling by Caroline Legg, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
I’ve seen this cutie with the distinctive moustache only once, as it loves to hide, but Ralph got lucky with a good look recently at Scamandre Nature Preserve, south of Nîmes.
From atop the Alpilles, a view over Saint-Rémy, the patch of Provence that stole our hearts so many years ago…and, happily, has kept safe since.
Hip, hip, hooray! The French government made our day!
Late one morning earlier this month, my mobile phone buzzed but showed no number or name. I figured it was probably a cold caller wanting to sell me something. Baffled, yet curious because it was so unusual not to see some sort of ID, I answered and waited. A stern female voice asked for confirmation that I was Mme Padgett and then proceeded to list the items I should bring to the Sous-Prefecture in Arles at 8:45 AM, on Thursday—two days later. Of course, I assured her, both my husband and I would be delighted to appear at the local branch office of the regional government. As much as I wanted to add, “with bells on toes,” instead, I offered a polite bonne journée.
The impressive Hôtel de Ville, City Hall, in Arles.
With celebratory hoots and hollers ringing in my head, I scurried to find Ralph to relay the positive news—our application for the extension of our second ten-year residency cards was progressing. We’d submitted our packet at the beginning of January, four months before our current cards expired. (This was the earliest we were allowed to begin the renewal process.) A week later, we’d been informed that some financial records were required, so we’d sent them in. Now, I just hoped the exacting French bureaucrats were asking to see us for all the right reasons and not to send us packing.
Arriving at the Sous-Prefecture before the designated hour, we found a line by the main door and two officials outside overseeing the entry process. Our names were on a list, so we were ushered directly inside and each given a number. One by one, the handful of people already seated in the waiting room hopped up in response to their number flashing on the digital screen bolted to the wall, and disappeared through a door.
A quiet backstreet in ArlesA cute coffee boutique
Remarkably, all them returned in just a few minutes and headed for the exit. We hadn’t been to this government office in a decade, and back then, we’d waited hours to see an official, and the interaction usually took some time. So we wondered if these people had very simple issues, so had been processed quickly, or had they been promptly rejected? We would find out the answer to our case sooner than expected.
Before the time of our appointment, our number pinged, and into the back office we went. A young woman greeted us matter-of-factly and asked for the documents we’d been told to bring. With minimal small talk, we followed instructions for making digital fingerprints and signed some documents. She explained that we would receive an email about our status soon, and when the permanent plastic cards were ready, we’d receive a text to pick them up. This all seemed very positive, so we thanked the official enthusiastically and gathered our things. Before leaving, I paused and said that though it was already February, I wanted to wish her Bonne Année. Happily, my Happy New Year comment elicited a smile. We were standing outside the building at 8:56, a mere eleven minutes after our appointed rendezvous. We took nothing for granted, but it appeared that we were on a fast track for acceptance.
The Museum of Fashion and Costume, which opened in 2025.The poster for the museum’s first expo features an intricately designed dress.
On the way to a café to sip a coffee and let the positive turn of events sink in, we passed the Fragonard Musée de la Mode et du Costume, a new museum dedicated to fashion and costumes. Opened in the summer of 2025 by the venerable family-run Fragonard perfume empire (founded in 1926 in Grasse), the first expo showcasing the elegant attire of the Arlésiennes—which influenced Paris fashion in the late 19th century—was on my want-to-do list. However, I’d done no planning, and now the show had closed. And so were the impressive carved wood doors of the restored mansion cum museum. They would reopen in March for the next exhibition, which undoubtedly would be terrific too. I made a mental note not to miss this one.
Bullfighting paraphernalia at Café TambourinCafé Tambourin is a buzzing morning hangoutPlace du Forum from inside Café Tambourin
We didn’t need to push through any doors to appreciate some other wonders in Arles. Just opposite the Sous-Prefecture stands the Théatre Antique d’Arles, the stadium seating and columns partially visible from the street. The semi-circular theater erected 12-15 BC could accommodate 10,000. Used primarily for dramatic or cultural events, the original stage spanned fifty meters. Even now, its remains are impressive.
The stunning Roman amphitheater in the center of Arles
But the whopper attraction in Arles is the magnificently preserved, two-tiered amphitheater (90 AD) with seating for 20,000 spectators, who came to watch events more on the combative side of entertainment. Think gladiators and such. Though bullfights still take place here during the Feria d’Arles, the site is used primarily for concerts and other extravaganzas. Even though I’ve walked by this magnificent monument countless times, on this ordinary winter day—perhaps because we’d emerged victorious after what had seemed like a battle of sorts—I couldn’t help but stop and wonder at its sheer extraordinariness. (That last word actually is one, right up there with remarkableness, according to Merriam-Webster. Who knew?)
The historic Hôtel Nord-Pinus on Place du ForumThe hotel facade preserves the town’s Roman heritageThe stylishly understated dining roomA hall leading from the main salon
After a quiet coffee on the Place du Forum, where Van Gogh painted Terrace of a Café at Night (1888), I popped into the newly renovated Grand Hôtel Nord-Pinus for a quick look-see. For 150 years, the legendary lodging has been attracting luminaries such as Picasso, Jack Kerouac, Jean-Paul Sartre, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Maria Callas, and Simone Signoret, to name a few. Today, there was no flurry of activity with paparazzi engaging red-carpet personalities, but I had no doubts the hotel’s understated glamour would continue the tradition of attracting those wishing to see and be seen.
The mighty Rhône River flows gently past Arles en route to the Med.A dog walker enjoying a lesisurely stroll on the elevated riverside path
In fact, on this chilly morning in the south of France, Ralph and I had visited this UNESCO World Heritage Site city precisely to see and be seen—by bureaucrats. Both missions accomplished, we’d left the ancient Roman town that boasted an incredibly rich heritage with the promise of a ten-year extension of what amounted to the right to continue making our own history, right here in our little patch of Provence…where, as surprising as it may be…that very afternoon, we received the precious attestation, or confirmation—France was extending our residence cards until 2036!
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Wherever you are, dear readers, all the best for happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
A Greater Flamingo recently greeted me with open “arms” at the Pont de Gau Nature Park.
PS
Not far from Arles, you’ll find the terrific nature park, Pont de Gau, where flamingos flock. On the day we visited, I caught my favorite bird with wings wide, as if offering me a giant hug.
PPS
Pleasures of Provence: A Quest for the Secret to Joie de Vivre in La Belle France isn’t exactly gaining speed as it nears the finish line. The production team is managing the last tweaks to the cover and interior design, but the changes are taking more time than expected. It’s hard to be hopeful that this bundle will be delivered by the end of March, but we shall see. I feel like one of my friends who laughs about how much she wants patience and wants it right now😊 Watch this space!
Avignon emerges through the mist–as seen from Fort Saint-André in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.
Bonne Année 2026 to all!
January in Saint-Rémy has brought chilly temps, and “damp,” gray days have been the norm. But then—surprise!—sunbeams burst forth, brightening the landscape and lifting spirits.
The positive vibes the sunshine brings made our little ramble ‘round Villeveuve-les-Avignon much sweeter. We hadn’t visited this petite enclave across the River Rhône from Avignon for quite some time, and I’d been wanting to check out a restaurant there called Maison Bronzini. So after an appointment in the former papal city (1309-1376), Ralph and I took advantage of the proximity to have a mini-adventure.
Here’s a glimpse of what we found:
Boulanger Patissier Marcellin offers a vast array of enticing delicaciesSweet tooth, anyone?A gentleman takes advantage of the rain-free morning.A coffee boost at Chez Olivier comes with a tiny treatFrom under the arcades on sunny Place MeissonnierThe entrance to the impressive Fort Saint-AndréLa Chartreuse, originally a monastery (14th C), a cultural center since 1973A spiffy bookshop beckons readersChez Olivier, a snazzy bistrot on Place Jean JaurèsFresh fruits and veggies shine in the sunNo doorbell needed with this sturdy vintage knockerWhere might this rustic door lead? Elaborately carved door with a designer knockerInviting Maison Bronzini offers an open fireplace!The extensive boutique at Maison Bronzini
Finding treasures in the boutique at Maison Bronzini was easy, but timing was off for a proper sit-down lunch in the restaurant. I can’t wait to return for an actual meal—the venue looks stunning, and I bet the cuisine team delivers meals to match.
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Wherever you are, dear readers, all the best for happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Red-breaster Merganser, by Chuck Homler, CC BY-SA 4.0, (cropped), Wikimedia Commons
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Surrounded by oil refineries and Marseille airport, the Étang de Berre isn’t exactly Saint-Tropez. But much to our delight, a punky Red-breasted Merganser–which ranges widely in the northern hemisphere–found it suitably appealing, pushing Ralph’s year bird count to 60.
PPS
Pleasures of Provence: A Quest for the Secret to Joie de Vivre in La Belle France is edging toward publication. At this point, it’s a question of finalizing the cover and tweaking the formatting–stages that require scrutiny and patience. We’re progressing, however, and here’s hoping a March release is still possible. Watch this space!
Shimmering Église Saint-Martin revs up the holiday magic.
From Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, all spruced up for the holidays, wishing you…
All the verybest for JOYEUSES FÊTES 2025 & MEILLEURS VŒUX FOR 2026!
It’s Happy Holidays time!The ever-delighful toy store, Le Cheval à Bascule.Golden deer atop Fiston, in centre ville.A polar bear takes a stroll.The Christmas tree at the Grand Café RicheCafé La Place, all gussied up for the holidays
My heartfelt thanks to you for taking the time to read my blog and your supportive comments throughout the year. I hope my stories have provided some joie de vivre moments, boosting your spirits.
The Fête des Lumières on 6 December brought out the crowds!
And may those positive sentiments continue to resonate as time goes by. And going by is what time does—2026 is nearly here! But before we ring in the new year, I hope you’ll enjoy some sweet, slow-lane time filled with holiday cheer.
Place Jules Pellissier, in centre ville, glows golden during the holiday season.
As always, wherever you are, dear readers, all the very best for happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
A trio of Common Cranes (Photo by wyvern1963, CC-BY-4.0, Wikimedia, cropped)
PS
The Common Cranes are back—yay! Ralph and I heard their honking before they showed up–dozens of them flying over Saint-Rémy!
Pretty in pink–the Christmas tree ride at the Fête de Noël in Nice, where we spent Thanksgiving.And its icy blue version–climb aboard!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence has progressed through the proofreader, and the cover is in the works. Full of cautious optimism, I’m hopeful the book will see the light of day by early spring—watch this space!
Vines shimmer in the afternoon sun near the wine cooperative, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, close to the Pont du Gard
Here in La Belle France, there are plenty of national holidays, but Thanksgiving isn’t one of them. It’s business as usual on the fourth Thursday in November, with folks working, kids studying, and stores following regular hours—including supermarkets, where you will not find heaps of humongous turkeys and elaborate stacks of canned pumpkin and cranberry sauce. But that’s not to say that there are no “Thanksgiving” celebrations. Au contraire!
Expansive view over the Luberon Valley from the restaurant Le Saint Hubert
Maybe not on the day, but close to it, Americans living in France usually find a way to come together with close ones, both locals and other expats, to give thanks and show appreciation for all they treasure. To mark the occasion, Ralph and I will travel to the Côte d’Azur by train to meet up with friends and enjoy a fancy feast ensemble.
The inviting dining room at Le Saint HubertLe Saint Hubert in the hilltop village of Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt
In anticipation of that gourmet event, we have been training our taste buds. Two culinary “workouts” were standouts and, curiously, both happened in a round about way. The main reason we reserved a table at the Le Saint Hubert in Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt was to meet a stranger. The grandson of close friends of close friends in California was doing an internship at the restaurant as a pastry chef. On the heels of finishing a three-year program at the Culinary Institute of America, the twenty-one year old was now completing a three-month stint under the supervision of the chef/owners, American Lise Kvar and her French husband, Eric Monteleon. We would hop over to say hello and sample his “work.”
Cod starter at Le Saint HubertGuinea fowl with a rich sauceYummy gnocchi with broccoli
The owners weren’t on site, but their staff couldn’t have been more welcoming and gracious, seating us in the area near the floor to ceiling sliding doors, where we marveled at the expansive Luberon valley view. Then we marveled at the lunch. Our scrumptious meal began with a fresh and flavorful cod confit, resting on a bed of thick hummous-like cream, with escarole and olives. For the main course, I ordered gnocchis à la romaine—large, thick disks made with semolina flour instead of potatoes—set on Parmesan sauce, surrounded by bright green broccoli flowerettes—delicious. Ralph opted for the filet de pintade, guinea fowl, with creamy fennel-infused polenta. Mais oui, he shared a few bites—deeply rich and yummy.
Out of this world chocolate mousse cake at Le Saint Hubert
But it was the dessert prepared by our new pastry chef friend that was astonishingly fab. The chocolate mousse cake topped with toasted hazelnuts was a little piece of heaven. Together, Ralph and I polished off every delectable tidbit—truly out of this world.Hats off to the entire team, including the talented pastry chef-in-training.
The countryside hotel-restaurant La Belle Vie near the Pont du GardThe stylish dining room
Our second culinary adventure occurred due to a newspaper article and a closure. We were headed to the wine cooperative, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, to pick up some vin rouge called Carambouille (2023) that we’d read about in The New York Times. Since we’d arrive in the area around lunchtime, when the coop was closed, we were planning on a bite in a nearby wine village. Our sights were set on a small restaurant belonging to the Bistrot de Pays group, meaning a countryside establishment offering local, fresh, homemade fare. Located in Domazan, the Bistrot de l’Hoste looked perfect from the outside—but that was all we’d see, as the owners were en vacances for the week. Switching gears, we followed an Instagram tip from food critic Alex Lobrano and headed to Saint-Hilaire d’Ozilhan (near the Pont du Gard), home to the Hôtel La Belle Vie.
Amuse-bouches at La Belle VieFresh from the seaEvery dish is an artful presentation
The gourmet meal at a stylish hotel was far from the simple lunch we’d imagined. Though we ordered only a main dish and coffee, we were wowed by an array of delectable amuse-bouches before the meal and afterward, some sweet delights, artfully presented with care by Head Waiters Camille and Gwendoline, who is also the sommelier. The variety of canapés, which preceded the main course, were delicious, including a tartelette of fennel, almonds, and smoked fish and another of cod mousse, plus a small olive brioche. After another yummy “prelude,” Ralph and I both enjoyed the red mullet from the Med, accompanied by a fondante of fennel and potato, served with a bowl of frothy fish-based soup. Every morsel was a dream to savor. Little did we know at the time that Chef Denis Martin is Michelin-starred—he received the coveted étoile while working at The Marcel in Sète.
Delectable bites served with coffee at La Belle Vie–plus a zingy juice blend.
We finished our surprise refined lunch with coffee, which arrived with several mignardises, sweet treats: a pineapple cube wrapped in a delicate almond-based coat, pralined chocolates, and a shot glass filled with zingy apple-ginger-myrtylle-lime juice—all wow!
Spirited Sandrine at the Estézargues cooperativeThe tasteful tasting room
After that refined dining experience, we nearly forgot the purpose of our trek—Les Vignerons d’Estézargues. We looped back around to the coop, where considerate Sandrine gently informed us that we were out of luck—the 2023 wine had sold out—but alas, they had plenty of the 2024 vintage! So we bought a few bottles, as well as a couple of others that the knowledgeable sommelier suggested.
The food-and-wine-based outings delivered two days of discovery close to home. Not only had they trained our taste buds, but they also reminded us of how much we had to be grateful for. Thanksgiving here we come.
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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you all the best for happiness, health, and hope.
And a très Happy Thanksgiving!
Bises,
Gayle
The stunning and elusive Wallcreeper by Kookaburra 81, CC BY-SA.4.0
PS
The Wallcreeper with its striking ruby wings has been spotted nearby—just not by us—so the search continues.
PPS
I’m very pleased (and relieved) to report that, after a few machinations, Pleasures of Provence is with the proofreader, who will run it through its paces until early December. In the meantime, the cover design moves to top priority. Publication is tentatively set for early spring, and we’re cautiously optimistic that’s a realistic goal😊
Mont Sainte-Victoire (1897, oil on canvas), one of over 35 oils and 45 watercolors of the mountain near Aix-en-Provence that so captivated Cezanne.
Autumn and art, a perfect pairing. When the vines begin to turn rusty gold and deep crimson, marking the end of the summer crowds in our popular Provençal patch, it’s time to put away the parasol and seek some culture.
Portrait of the Artist with Pink Background (c.1875, oil on canvas), by Paul Cezanne, “Father of Modern Art.”The “Founder of Impressionism,” Claude Monet.
This particular change of seasons was my cue to check out a couple of standout events spotlighting two French titans of art history: Monet, Founder of Impressionism (Claude Monet, 1840-1926) at the Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, and Cezanne au Jas de Bouffan, (Paul Cezanne, 1839-1906) at the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence.
La Fontaine de la Rotunde welcomes visitors to Aix-en-Provence, a city of art and culture.
Carrières des Lumières is a former interior quarry, repurposed as a stunning art venue featuring immersive sound and light art-themed spectacles. Each year, the program showcases different artists, but one aspect remains the same—the wow factor, and not just for the stunning visuals but also the dramatic musical accompaniment. I’ve been to nearly every one over the years, and though I’ve loved some more than others—Chagall (2016-17) and Picasso (2018-19) are faves to date—this one starring Claude Monet was impressive. During one segment, for example, you really feel like you’re on a moving train, watching the landscape whiz by.
Here are some highlights:
As the train pulls into Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris, you can practically feel the steam.Monet’s landscapes rush by as if you’re on a train.Water lilies near and far.The garden at Giverny covers multiple walls at once.With this winter scene splashed over 40-foot-high walls, the evocative icy chill feels real.Reflections bounce off the water,and the boats bounce too.
Luckily, Ralph and I made it to the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence before the terrific Paul Cezanne expo ended on 12 October. I should not have waited till the last minute, because I could have been out of luck finding tickets to the massively popular show and missed out on experiencing the unique collection of iconic works by the “Father of Modern Art.” Because Cezanne veered away from capturing fleeting moments as the Impressionists did and concentrated on exploring rule-breaking perspectives of form, structure, and color, he paved the way for 20th-century masters. Both Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse are known to have agreed that Cezanne was the “father of us all.”
Here are some of my favorites:
The Card Players, oil on canvas, painted between 1893 and 1896.The Women Bathers, oil on canvas, circa 1895Still Life with Apples and Melons, oil on canvas, ca. 1895Still Life with Apples, oil on canvas,1895-98Portrait of the Artist’s Father, reading L’Événement, oil o canvas,1866
One last note on the Cezanne show. The collection included just one painting of Mont Sainte-Victoire, but it meant a lot to me. After having lived in Aix for 18 months–before moving to Saint-Rémy–we often walked to the plateau where Cezanne set up his easel to paint the multi-faceted mountain. I loved gazing at it, watching the light and shadows dance across its rugged surface, each snapshot offering a different perspective for seeing the world. Because I came to feel connected to it on a certain level, I felt closer to the region, as well. We never hiked the mountain, though, and that’s something I’d like to do one day–another item for the bucket list.
Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Black Stork by Frank Vassen, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons (cropped)
PS
On the birding front, the Black Stork gets top billing this month—the impressive bird and its mates are back in Provence for the winter!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence is making its way toward the home stretch. The editor plans to send me the manuscript within a week, and then I can begin what hopefully is the final edit. When I’m finished with it (or it’s finished with me) and somehow the project is proclaimed “done,” next stop proofreader. Then the focus will turn to publication prep, and, of course, the cover. It will be similar to Passion for Provence, but distinctive. If you have any ideas, please pass them along!
The Carreto Ramado (stuffed cart in Provençal) leads the traditional summer parade in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
Mid-August in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is feria time. Over an extended weekend, the town salutes its equestrian and rural heritage with parades, special apèros, brass bands, and outdoor DJ-directed dance-o-thon evenings called bodégas. And, of course, there are loads of special events featuring horses and bulls that take place in arenas, as well as on the main square and in the streets—with spectators ensconced behind metal barricades.
The traditional costumes of the Arlésiennes date to the 18th century. The “look” includes an intricate hair bun and decorative headdress.
Of the variety of happenings, one event not to miss is the Défilé de la Carreto Ramado, the elaborate parade that includes the fabulous Arlésiennes, dressed in period costumes. An enormous cart decorated with colorful flags, green foliage, highlighted with braids of garlic, sunflowers, and bouquets of lavender, leads a procession of dozens of linked-together draught horses, sporting ornate harnesses festooned with pompoms and ribbons. It’s quite the spectacle! Have a look:
Traditional attire of long-sleeved shirts and vests are de rigueur though temps tip toward 100F.Little girls sporting straw bonnets walk with purpose.Young equestrians promote the revered traditions.Sitting tall and proud in the saddle.Atop a horse-drawn carriage, a couple makes the rounds in comfort.Mayor Chérubini enjoying the festivities.Some female equestrians sit side-saddle, their long gowns flowing over their steeds.The post-parade party spills into the street.
Wherever you are this summer, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Gorgeous European roller courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci, CCASA 4.0, Wikimedia
PS
The European roller is a summer favorite in these parts. Such a treat to see it fly!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence is again with the primary editor, where, most likely, it will remain for a few weeks. When it returns, there will be more work to do—that is a given. When will it be ready for the proofreader? That, mes amis, is a complicated question. In the meantime, the trick is to keep on truckin’, n’est ce pas? And smiling!
