Lollagagging around the lagoon by the name of l’Étang de Thau fit the bill for a sizzling hot summer séjour. Less than two hours from home, this mini-adventure destination demanded little energy to plan but promised a mighty payoff.
From our holiday rental overlooking a sandy beach in mellow Mèze, my potential agenda included a bike ride to adorable Bouzigues, known for its oysters, or the picturesque vermouth-producing village of Marseillan, with its port lined with seafood restaurants, cafés, and the Noily Prat distillery. Or perhaps a mosey ‘round the antiques town of Pézenas, just 20 minutes by car. A more industrious possibility was a tennis match on the clay courts with a sea view. But with the heat, nothing remotely strenuous held much appeal.
What did draw our attention was setting sail for Sète via the navette that runs from mid-May to mid-September between Mèze and Sète, the fishing and shipping hub, just a 30-minute cruise away. What a delight! From the pleasure-boat port, we buzzed over to the dynamic town that borders both the Étang de Thau and the Med. We’d visited before, but long ago and even then we hadn’t explored the old town. And that’s what we had in mind this time around.
Armed with an article from Côte Sud magazine and tips from local buddies, we first stopped for a coffee at the charming Le Victor Hugo. From there we crossed the street to experience the animated art show on Place Victor Hugo. Designed by contemporary French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, the expanse of glazed ceramic tiles showcases sweeping blue and red splotchy loops. The impressive 440-square-meter area is inlaid with water jets that shoot up intermittently, setting the tiles sparkling and casting a cooling spray across appreciative passersby.
Before heading to the shipyard sector across town for our lunch rendezvous at Amar Café, we needed a little sustenance. So, we made a detour to La Cettoise. Overlooking Place de la Mairie, this tiny take-out enclave dishes out a terrific version of the local specialty, la tielle. Basically, it’s a pie filled with hearty tomato sauce mixed with chopped-up rock octopus, created from a secret family recipe. Sharing a palm-sized version while sitting on a low wall above the shady square gave us the boost we needed.
As we walked through the rugged old quarter, we passed several establishments that looked particularly appealing. One was Maison Politi, an Italian grocery store and trattoria I really wanted to investigate. But the lunch clock was ticking, so we kept on truckin’. I’ll definitely make it a point to try snoop around in there next time.
It was a long haul out to the shipyard sector, but worth every step, even in the heat. Though Amar’s interior was minimalist, our meals delivered subtle yet sumptuous flavors. And to top it off, we were surrounded by the vast vue mer, punctuated with formidable ferries on the Sète-Morocco circuit.
On the way back to our water bus for our trip home, we paused for coffee at Le Flore on the recently redeveloped Place Aristide Briand, great for people-watching. I was tempted to pick up a much-lauded cinnamon bun at the Cariola boulangerie, but the line was long. And since there’s also an outpost in Mèze, I figured I could get my carb fix when we got back to our temporary homestead.
Over the next few days, I not only devoured a Cariola cinnamon bun, but also the praline version. (They’re both so yummy, I still haven’t decided which is my fave!) We lunched on the port, strolled the evening artisan’s market, and caught the lively jousting-by-boat event, plus lucked on to an outdoor concert. And, of course, we birded a bit and swam in the calm, cool waters of the lagoon. All in all, despite the summer crowds, we enjoyed a tranquil and rejuvenating outing, just a hop, skip and a petit saut from home.
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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
We spotted a number of these striking Eurasian Oystercatchers in the marshy area of Mèze’s nature park. They also frequent the nearby water treatment plant, which is fenced off, but offers clear views of bird life through the chain-link barriers. Just goes to show that one man’s no-go zone may be a feathered friend’s Shangri-La.
PPS
My late-summer book signing at the Saint-Rémy Librairie and Presse doubled as an impromptu buddies’ reunion. Here I am with bestie Beth Woodford, holding my first memoir Passion for Provence. Of course, my second book, The Birdwatcher’s Wife, and my most recent release, Pleasures of Provence, were available too. As a petit merci to those who stopped by, I doled out chocolate chip cookies—fait maison, of course!😊