Skipping out of town to the coast just as summer’s heat was poised to pounce had us humming a happy tune…all the way to Gruissan. Where, you’re wondering, is this Gruissan? Perhaps the getaway destination is nestled in the upscale Côte d’Azur? Near glitzy Saint-Tropez? Maybe by swanky Monaco? Or fashionable Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat? Nope, not a mega yacht, Lamborghini, nor Hermès bag paraded around this authentic fishing village, down Spain’s way. As temperatures soared back home in Saint-Rémy, in this unassuming seaside enclave, we chilled.
Which is not to say we exclusively navel-gazed all week. Au contraire. To celebrate Ralph’s birthday month, we made the rounds by bike, foot, and auto but sans rushing or traveling far afield.
Here are some highlights:
Working fishing boats docked in GruissanOutside of town, by the Cabannes des PêcheursHow to fillet a fish? Brigitte, from the enterprise Calegari, offers a tutorial.Apricots bursting with flavor at Gruissan’s market.Forget fromage. In Gruissan, say salt–any way you like it!Saucissons make for a perfect pique-nique.Narbonne’s Norman Foster-designed Roman antiquities museum, Narbo ViaBarges cruise Narbonne’s Canal de Robine, part of the Canal du Midi.Narbonne’s fabulous covered indoor market, Les HallesView from the terrace at La Perle Guissanaise.At La Perle Guissanaise, you chose your catch–barely off the boatFun and festive dining at La Perle GuissanaiseNewly opened Le Grand Castélou nature park offers three circuits–all flat–with two observatiores.Where to plop on the vast beach at Plage des Chalets?Asparagus panna cotta at Deux Oliviers, GruissanDeux Olivier’s grilled squid in spicy “soup”Exclusive digs, Château Capitoul, between Gruissan and NarbonneInfinite view from the infinity pool, Château CapitoulHappily, non-residents are welcome at Château Capitoul’s serene spa.Wine shop at Château Capitoul offers wines from various domaines.Refined elegance reigns at Château CapitoulCheering life in the slow lane on the terrace of Château Capitoul.
Wherever you are, dear readers, here’s to health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
When the primary editor returns my manuscript of Pleasures of Provence (working title) at the end of the month, surely revisions will need to be made. In the meantime, I’m resting up, knowing full well I’ll need to gear up when the time comes.
PPS
The striking Woodchat Shrike posed for Ralph near Gruissan’s salt pans. (Photo by Irvin Calicut, Wikimedia.)
Gayle Smith Padgett 