books – Gayle Smith Padgett

An Escape to Enhanting Costa Brava

El Port de la Selva isn’t a glitzy resort, but it twinkles brightly at night.

Just a hop, skip, and a scoot down the autoroute to the southwest, France’s border with Spain comes into view. And just beyond, the Costa Brava, the wild coast.

Ralph and I spent a week scoping out a slim sector of this dramatically scenic area in Catalonia, a semi-independent region in northeastern Spain, where Catalan is the dominant language. First, we spent a few days exploring the seaside town of El Port de la Selva. Set in the midst of the vast Cap Creus Nature Park, the authentic enclave is a haven for water sports enthusiasts, hikers, and cyclists.

And speaking of cycling, the nearby city of Girona is both the capital of Girona Province, and cycling in Europe. Professional cyclists gravitate here for its proximity to the Pyrenees and challenging coastal roads—aka steep and windy.

Anchovies atop a slice of crusty country bread make for a popular tapas dish.

We cruised over some of those crazy circuits (carefully) to reach some popular villages such as hilltop Begur, coastal Calella Palafrugell and Llança.

Dalí’s distinctive house in Port Lligat, by Cadaqués.

After El Port de la Selva, we relocated to the picturesque coastal resort of Cadaqués, made famous by the Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. His uniquely decorated home—a warren of combined fishermen huts built on a quiet cove about a kilometer from the town center—is open to the public, visited by guided tour only. Though not a Dalí fan, I bought a ticket, curious to gain insights into the artist’s bizarre visions reflected in his works. I’m not sure I succeeded at that, but I did appreciate how much he loved the beguiling location. (Reservations necessary.)

The extraordinary Dalí-Theater-Museum in Figueres, the artist’s birthplace.

Other Dalí-related sites in the area are the eye-popping Dalí-Theater-Museum and the house where the artist was born in Figueres. Nearby, in the remote village of Púbol, you’ll find the castle-retreat created for his wife, Gala. You can tour this property freely, so you can take time exploring the residence, as well as the lush garden and pretty pool area.

The culinary highlight of the trip, without question, was our lunch at Restaurant Normal in Girona. Something beyond magical happens in the kitchen. Very highly recommend–reservations are essential.

Grilled eggplant and keffir lime sour cream was a stellar starter at Restaurant Normal in Girona.

Wherever you are, dear readers, all the best for health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

A European Shag with breeding-season crest.

PS: There were few special birds to be seen on our Costa Brava excursion, but Ralph did spot a European Shag. This photo, by Bouke ten Cate (CCBY-SA 4.0), shows the bird with its jaunty, breeding-season crest.

PPS: Pleasures of Provence update: I’m in the midst of a major “near-final” edit, and next month, the editor will review the manuscript again. Completion of this project still seems distant, but hopefully, I’ll get a glimpse of the light at the end of the proverbial tunnel very soon!

Rosé in the Shade: Summer in the South of France

A tower of rosé from the very cool La Cave du Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence

What’s the magic formula for a happy summer in Provence? Keeping cool ranks as the top factor, without a doubt. Mais oui, it’s been toasty here, folks. Morning walks in the Alpilles must begin earlier, and so, too, strolls through the terrific Wednesday market. The come-rain-or-shine vendors put up their gargantuan umbrellas, lay out their irresistible wares, and prepare for the rush of summer customers. It’s always such a pleasure to see what’s on offer—there’s something for everyone. Plan to arrive early to discover your treasure.

Wherever you are, all the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful summer.

Bises, Gayle

A Common Kestrel, courtesy of Andreas Trepte, CCBYSA2.5, Wikimedia

In the tall trees at the end of a big field next to our house, we spotted three baby Common Kestrels. Their parents are frantically trying to keep them all fed, so there’s plenty of action. I couldn’t zoom up close enough to get a good shot, but Andreas Trepte captured the raptor’s allure in this image.

PPS

Pleasures of Provence update: I’m beavering away, as a writer friend says, on the changes the editor suggested. The revised manuscript goes back to her in two weeks for the second (and critical) pass. After that, several more stages remain, so realistically, publication looks to be next year. In anticipation of book three, if you enjoyed my current books, I encourage you to share your enthusiasm with other readers on Amazon or Goodreads. Many, many heartfelt thanks in advance. Watch this space!

Côte d’Azur Rendez-vous

Nice, France, in mid-September. Yep, those are swimmers in the Med!

Twisting my arm to visit Nice is hardly necessary. In September, or any time of year, really, the splendiferous seaside city on the Côte d’Azur covers the three Es with ease–enchanting, enthralling and enticing its way into your heart. Whether it be the stunning architecture, inviting climate, dazzling Mediterranean location, buzzy ambiance, markets, vibrant cultural scene, or the diverse cuisine, one way or the other, this south-of-France metropolis is sure to capture your imagination one way or the other.

Strolling the Promenade des Anglais, along the Med

The impressive central train station in Nice

The daunting traffic, however, is not likely to be on anybody’s hit list. So when Ralph and I made a plan to rendezvous with a wonderful friend who was passing through the big city, we relied on the train to take us in—from Biot, a little town less than a half hour’s ride west of Nice.

Faux flowers adorn an ice cream shop in Valbonne

Staying in charming Valbonne–about two and a half hours from Saint-Rémy–we drove through the country to the Biot gare in 30 minutes, parked the car in a big lot next to the sea at no charge, hopped on the train, and presto, a few minutes later we arrived in Nice.

Amy Trowell (right), manager of the Around the World bookshop, holds *Passion for Provence*

Though our visit was short, it was oh-so-sweet. First we met our spirited writer friend Rena Pederson at the brand new English language bookstore called Around the World. It’s an off-shoot of the Librairie Masséna, “One of France’s leading independent bookshops,” according to The Connexion (2 Aug. ’24). We had a lovely time chatting with the charming British manager, Amy Trowell, and snooping through the variety of titles.

Delicious keftas from the tapas menu at Bocca Nissa

An Indian Silverbill entertained us on the rooftop terrace at Bocca.

The rooftop terrace of Bocca Nissa, a restaurant recently recommended in a New York Time’s article, was our choice for lunch. Not only was the repast scrumptious but there was an unexpected treat. Flitting about the trees on the terrace was a cute birdie called an Indian Silverbill, a new bird for our 2024 list.

Stunning architecture is eye-catching on Avenue Jean Médecin leading to Place Messéna.

Shopping at Galeries Lafayette, strolling the Promenade des Anglais, having coffee in the Marriott Méridien lounge—chatting up a storm along the way—occupied the rest of the afternoon. Good-byes are never easy but we were so pleased with ourselves that we’d made our rendezvous happen, smiles prevailed.

All set to dine al fresco on the terrace at Relais de la Poste, Valbonne

Deliciously spicy Thai chicken, Relais de la Poste

Back in Valbonne, we had a terrific meal at the welcoming Relais de la Poste, followed by a very badly timed walk back to the hotel during a determined downpour. Yep, we got a bit damp!

A dreamy night on Place des Arcades, Valbonne

A sunny lane leading to Place des Arcades, Valbonne

A cacophony of colors at a flower stall in the Valbonne market

But the next morning the soleil returned, illuminating the outdoor market stalls that envelope Valbonne village each Friday. And happily those sunbeams kept us company throughout our trek to chez nous, en Provence.

***

Wishing you all the best for happiness, health and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is gaining traction—hoorah!

PPS

If you’re a true crime fan, check out Rena’s latest book–the page-turning whodunit, King of Diamonds, about a Dallas jewel thief who worked throughout the 60s and was never caught. Nor were the gems found.