Mesmerizing Mont Sainte-Victoire is a stunner–any time of day, in any light.
If you are doubtful, check in with Cezanne. This magnificent montagne that towers over Aix-en-Provence was the subject of 36 paintings and 45 watercolors produced by the town’s most famous native son, post-Impressionist artist, Paul Cezanne (1839-1906). He is credited with providing the essential link between late 19th century Impressionism and early 20th century Cubism.
Cezanne’s obsession with the mountain is understandable. When you have a direct countryside view of it, like Ralph and I did on a recent stay on the outskirts of the artist’s home town, you are glued to the seductive sight of the mountain–glowing in the morning sunshine and casting deep purple shadows at sundown. We just didn’t want to miss a minute of it.
But there were things to do, things to see. One was visiting a delightful très chère amie in the town of Vallauris, home to one of Cezanne’s famous admirers, Pablo Picasso. (The Spanish artist, along with Henri Matisse, considered Cezanne the “father of us all” and owned several of his works.) The village, just inland from Cannes on the French Riviera, counted Picasso as a resident from 1948 to 1955.
In the center of town, the Musée Nationale Pablo Picasso commemorates his work in ceramics. The production of earthenware pottery in Vallauris dates to Roman times, but Picasso raised the town’s profile considerably. The museum collection showcases a wide range of his ceramic works, many of which feature feathered friends, usually doves or owls—my personal favorites!
Aside from the extensive ceramics collection, the highlight of the museum has to be Picasso’s moving anti-war work, La Guerre et La Paix, which covers the interior of a small chapel. Picasso painted the scenes on flat, but flexible panels, which were then fitted onto the chapel walls and vaulted ceiling.
Following our foray to Vallauris, where we admired Picasso’s poignant tribute to peace, we returned to the tranquility of Cezanne country in time to witness the sun setting on the artist’s preferred subject, Mount Sainte-Victoire. As the orange sherbet glow blanketed the mountain, a sense of calm and tranquility emerged. As if to underscore the brilliance of the peaceful scene, a silvery dove gently flapped its way through the sky. It was a fitting finale to a day spent in awe and wonder of the harmony and serenity that art and nature can provide.
Stay healthy, happy, and hopeful.
Bises, Gayle
PS
On a recent visit to the terrific Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau, near Saintes-Maries-de-Mer, I met up with the very upbeat and engaging director, Frédéric Lamouroux. Here, he most kindly shows off my book, The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie. I assured him that the next book, Pleasures of Provence (working title) will definitely include action at the park. I also assured him that it’ll be a while. But like migrating birds, I try to do my best to keep moving, hopefully in a (mostly) forward direction.
Gayle Smith Padgett 