Quoi de Neuf à Saint-Rémy-de-Provence?

What’s new in St. Rémy? Well, as the Greek philosopher Heraclitus is known to have said, “The only constant in life is change.” And so it goes in Saint-Rémy, where Greeks once roamed. This vibrant town nestled into the foothills of the Alpilles continues to reinvent itself in ways big and small.

Here are some of the latest developments from roadworks to restaurants.

After many months of construction aimed to smooth the chemin south, that well deserved the nickname Pothole Alley, the traffic can now sail smoothly straight up and over the Alpilles. Happily, gone are the dreaded deep yellow Deviation signs that directed traffic through the Tourist Office parking lot to an alternating traffic light that was meant to keep the flow of cars all moving in single direction at any given time, but not always with 100% success. (Try negotiating a way ‘round a massive cement truck on a skinny one-lane road—grrrr.)

Also, now the street sports a lovely bike path and attractive wood barriers, along with beaucoup fleurs. The parking lot at the Tourist Office has been greatly expanded and charging stations installed. In the process, the former boules courts delineated with rustic railway ties got gobbled up—and I do miss them—but a sleek new court was installed on the south side of the kiddie playground.

For the residents in centre ville, losing the little grocery store called SPAR was a blow. Word on the street is that the family who ran the franchaise, tried to find a buyer to continue it as a grocery store but without luck. The private party who bought it is now renovating it. It may be a type of deli but time will tell.

Down the road from the former SPAR, across from the Nostradamus fountain, a beautifully renovated building has been revealed. It was vacant for eons and then under a construction wrap for a long while. Now the gorgeous structure is garnering accolades galore. The rumor is that it will house several apartments with commercial space on the ground floor—surely to command posh prices.

On the restaurant front, the big news is that Café de la Place—in former times—the place to see and be seen, on Place de la République, is under new ownership. The current proprietors who run a much acclaimed restaurant in Arles called L’Apsara have bought it and cleverly changed the name ever so slightly to Café La Place. It’s now sans “de” and offers a pan-Asian menu. First reports are that dishes can be bland but other diners we know have given it a thumbs up. We shall see!

The venerable resto L’Estagnol on Boulevard Marceau is now L’Ao. Also, La Table de Nicolas, which has been boarded up for ages, shows signs of clean-up activity, which is promising. And the cozy but yummy seafood eatery Gus is set to take over the space where the spacious Café Célestine was on Boulevard Victor Hugo. Always coming up with something new, Maison Favier’s congenial Jerome tells me that at his other restaurant called Bienbon, he’ll have guest chefs for a week-long stints—not only French, but also Lebanese and American. Can’t wait!

But perhaps closest to my heart is the change of ownership—and name—of the former Pharmacie La Croix Verte, now Pharmacie de la Collégiale. It’s located next to the town’s church, L’Église Saint-Martin, technically, La Collégiale de Saint-Martin, so the name fits. But most importantly, the terrific former staff remains. Our attachment to these caring folks has a long history. Way back in the early 90s, on our first visit to St. Rémy, Ralph had to enlist their services—after hours. I’d fainted from a powerful shooting back pain and fallen over backwards in a hotel after heaving an overloaded suitcase onto the bed. A doctor had come to the room within minutes and prescribed some meds. It was late by then but Saint-Rémy had us covered. Outside the closed pharmacy was a magic bell, which the good doctor had told Ralph about. After a buzzing it, someone appeared, took the prescription and filled it!

Regardless of the changes—at least for the time being—Saint-Rémy remains a small town at heart and its authenticity still shines through. The traditional fêtes like the carnaval parade, which shouts good riddance to winter and hello spring with celebratory good cheer; is a big crowd pleaser; the Roman ruins, Les Antiques, shimmer in the sunshine; and the psychiatric hospital, Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh stayed a year and painted over 150 works to include The Starry Night, still houses patients in one section and in another welcomes busloads of visitors yearly.

And of course, the renown Wednesday market is as vibrant as ever—unless the mistral is raging. That’s another constant. Perhaps not one we fully embrace, but revere it or resent it, this powerful wind is a Saint-Rémy characteristic that is undeniably genuine.

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Wishing you health and hope—forever a happy combo.

Bises, Gayle

PS

While enjoying my first cuppa on our sunny terrace earlier this week, one of my favorite feathered friends flew by—the impressively sensational Hoopoe. A great start to the day.

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is moving forward—not nearly as zippy as a Hoopoe’s flight trajectory, but steadily, more like a flamingo, sifting the mud for tasty morsels.