Gayle Smith Padgett

A Winter Wander in Aix-en-Provence

Photojournalist Steve McCurry’s image of the young Afghan refugee (Pakistan, 1984) is the star of the blockbuster show “Regards” at the Caumont Centre d’Art.

Known as the City of Art and Culture, Aix-en-Provence shines throughout the seasons. Even in winter when the temps drop and the sun plays hide and seek, this vibrant university city’s elegant architecture, bustling outdoor markets, charming cafes, and stellar art expos make it a delightful destination.

McCurry’s flower seller, Dal Lake, Kashmir, 1996

McCurry’s image of a man with a blazing beard, Rajasthan, India, 2010

Last month during my day-long wander around this enticing city, I made the most of it, packing in as much as I could. After delivering my Bonne Année wishes to the terrific team at one of my absolute favorite book shops, Book in Bar, I strolled across the street to the fabulous Caumont Centre d’Art.

Some of the spirited members of the fabulous Book in Bar team.

Place Hôtel de Ville is a favorite people-watching spot.

This winter the big draw is the exhibition, Regards, which showcases 80 stellar works by celebrated American photojournalist Steve McCurry—best known for his 1984 portrait of young Sarbat Gula in a Pakistani refugee camp. People, young and old, along with landscapes from the near and far east, are the main subjects. The show exceeded its hype—it was truly impressive and inspiring. (Regards runs through 25 March 2025.)

The flower market on Place Hôtel de Ville

As I moseyed along Cours Mirabeau, I marveled at the elegant 17^th and 18^th century mansions, now much more visible through the leafless plane trees lining the avenue. Dodging customers at the busy market stalls displaying all matter of clothes and accessories, I stopped for a peek into the window of the historic patisserie, Maison Béchard–since 1870!–the place for calissons, the almond paste-based boat-shaped goody.

The refurbished fountain on Place d’Albertus looks like it’s been there for ages.

The flower market on charming Place de l’Hôtel de Ville was humming in front of the stately Hôtel de Ville and imposing Clock Tower. By afternoon, the buzz had calmed, the market cleared, making room for more café seating. It’s a super place for a coffee and people watching, plus in winter, sans tourists, snagging a table is a snap!

The charming café-librarie Le Chant du Monde

My in-the-know companion suggested lunch at the charming new café-book store combo, Le Chant du Monde. It was super! We both enjoyed yummy fresh veggie dishes, the gracious service, and the welcoming, casual vibe.

Maison Saint-Honoré is a must for delectable bakery goods

Before heading back to Saint-Rémy, I checked off several items on my to-do list but left time for an important stop. I just had to pop into the boulangerie Maison Saint-Honoré for a chewy, crusty baguette, which I knew Ralph would appreciate.

And most of the loaf made it home. Turned out, during the hour’s drive, a “mouse” managed a nibble—who could resist?

Wherever you are, dear readers, be happy, healthy and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

Update on Pleasures of Provence: The manuscript is now with a literary professional for a general review. When the comments come in, surely I’ll have my work cut out for me. Still, it’s progress!

Two Lesser Flamingos–classified as Very Rare–forage in the Camargue in January.

PPS

After seeing a single Lesser Flamingo in December, the New Year brought TWO. The experts at the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau said it was yet unclear whether they were a pair. Hope springs eternal😊

A Winter Wander in Avignon…

The imposing Palais des Papes in Avignon under a cerulean blue winter sky.

First of all…

Bonne Année 2025 & Meilleurs Voeux à Tous!

Happy New Year & Best Wishes to all!

***

A banner at Avignon’s City Hall wishes all a lovely and happy New Year 2025.

Provence in winter usually means a crisp chill in the air but more often than not, sunshine reigns.

Avignon’s impressive main theater on Place de L’Horloge.

So when duty recently called Ralph and me to Avignon—about a half an hour north of Saint-Rémy—we took advantage of the opportunity to explore. Instead of racing in and out of the Papal City, we took care of business and stayed for lunch, roaming around the architecturally striking city in between. And all under a stunningly blue sky but sans the crush of the summer crowds who flood in for the famous performing arts fête, the Festival d’Avignon.

What a treat it was to stand practically by ourselves on Place du Palais and marvel at the impressive 14^th century papal palace, the Palais des Papes, home to seven popes between 1309 and 1377. Flanking the palace, the imposing Cathédral-Notre-Dame-des-Doms d’Avignon glistened in the morning sun.

On the pretty main square, Place de L’Horloge, the sunbeams danced off the elaborate Grand Opera which will have its 200^th birthday in October. Just a few meters away the stately Hôtel de Ville held court with the tricolor flag taking center stage, waving in the breeze.

The historic Chapellerie Mouret has been in business since 1860!

Along rue des Marchands, we strolled past countless adorable boutiques selling clothes, confections, berets, and blossoms, plus a variety of products made from local lavender and olives.

Patrons of Café Saint-Jean soak up the morning sunshine.

On Place Pie, we joined a dozen other sun worshipers on the terrace of Café Saint Jean for a café noisette, an espresso with a dollop of hot foamy milk. Afterward, we cruised the aisles of the historic indoor market called Les Halles, admiring the bounty of fruits, vegetables, pastries, seafood, meat, fromages, and spices—pretty much everything needed to compose a wonderful meal.

Avignon’s indoor market, Les Halles, is a gourmand’s paradise.

Find your favorite fromage at the creamery, La Maison du Fromage.

Meat lovers are sure to find their favorite cut here.

And a wonderful meal is exactly what’s found at Cuisine Centr’Halles, talented American Chef Jonathan Chiri’s restaurant. This charismatic Californian native earned his refined cuisine stripes at top restaurants around the world, to include the Michelin-starred restaurant at the 5-starred luxury hotel La Mirande right around the corner in Avignon. (He also taught at their cooking school.) For lucky guests at his restaurant tucked into Les Halles, he prepares fresh, inventive, scrumptious lunches in an open-plan arrangement.

The day we were there, while we waited for our starter, he kindly offered us a yummy chickpea dip punctuated with lemon confit, which gave it a delightful punch. Afterward, we enjoyed the bubbling hot, crunchy-topped appetizer of a goat cheese melange made with loads of garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs—fabulous! Ralph chose the extraordinarily delicious stuffed veggies—he offered a bite!—and I devoured a moist, herby turkey roulade in a rich reduction sauce, served with a colorful array of charred vegetables and a ramekin of a creamy polenta.

Throughout the meal, we’d been sipping a delightful recommendation by Nienke, the engaging sommelier and server. After inquiring about our tastes, she’d poured a dry white wine from Domaine de Laballe called Sables Fauves. We thoroughly enjoyed it and relayed that message to Niente and Chef Chiri who noted it comes from the Landes department, south of Bordeaux.

Chef Chiri and Nienke, with *moi* in the middle

It’s a wine region we haven’t explored much. But we sure will now—a happy addition for the New Year’s to-do list.

All the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful 2025.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is moving forward. Restructuring some chapters and revising the ending is taking some time but no way ‘round it to get to the place I think it needs to be. It feels like I’m on the right track, but there’s a ways to go. Pas à pas as they say here—step by step.

PPS

When a VERY RARE bird alert came through for the Lesser Flamingo, Ralph and I twitched! On 29 December we hustled to the Camargue and saw the coral-pink wonder–it’s the one in the back. The singular bird pranced among no fewer than 1,800 pale pink Greater Flamingos. Sorry to say, I forgot my camera so this is the best I could do with my phone that we placed on the spotting scope. It was a thrill to watch it preen, splash, and even take a nap!

Joyeuses Fêtes 2024!

Saint-Rémy’s Église Saint-Martin may be closed for renovation, but its golden glowing exterior attracts many admirers.

From Saint-Rémy-de-Provence…

Happy Holidays

and a

Healthy, Happy and Hopeful 2025!

The terrace of restaurant Pieds dans L’Eau shimmers in soft pink light.

Dear Readers,

As this challenging year comes to a close and we reboot our energy and reset our focus with optimism for the New Year, please know, from the bottom of my heart, how much I appreciate your continued support of my blog, Falling for France.

A gift shop on Place Pelissier goes all out.

It began in 2017, in anticipation of the publication of my first book, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie and has continued, alongside book number two, The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie (2021).

Reindeer prances atop a shoe shop on Place Pelissier

In essence, these books, plus the next one, Pleasures of Provence (working title) are about finding joy—and not just in France but wherever life finds you. Because, whether your adventures be far-flung or the everyday type, they all hold promise of uplifting wonder—a concept to celebrate, n’est ce pas?

Wishing you all, all the very best.

Bises,

Gayle

A festive penguin greets customers at a brasserie in St. Remy.

Bringing Pleasures of Provence to the light of day will take as long as it takes—aka longer than one would hope and then some. However, the process is progressing…and in a forward manner, to boot:) Recently, I managed to stop tinkering and separate myself from a full (but very imperfect) draft and deliver it to the capable hands of trusted advisors who have shared their thoughtful comments. So here I am, in the thick of daunting editing, pushing ahead step by step. If you can spare wishes for perseverance, please send them this way!

A stork sailing over the fields near the Abbaye de Valmagne, by the village of Villeveyrac last week.

PPS

For those of you flying off to visit loved ones this holiday season, wishing you smooth sailing.

Ferry to a Fish Shack in the Camargue

A Grey Heron saunters by a flamingo flock at the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau in the Camargue.

Watching with wonder works wonders on boosting spirits, especially when the star of the show is my favorite bird, the Greater Flamingo. I love watching these captivating creatures do what they do—prance and preen, forage and fly, squawk and even snooze. While they catch some Zzzzzs, they balance on one spindly leg for an incredibly long time—and that’s with their eyes closed!

Surprisingly, this White Stork finds a big pond all to itself.

As happens in life, spirits can sometimes spiral downward. When that occurred the other day, Ralph and I headed to the Parc Ornithologique de Pont du Gau in the Camargue—about an hour from St. Rémy—to visit “my” special feathered friends. In this vast, wild nature reserve, dotted with large ponds, there are loads of flamingos that you can see very close up. It was incredibly calming. We also searched for rarities on our trek but none had flown in that day though there was a good variety of nice birds to include Eurasian Teals, Little Egrets, Grey Herons, and White Storks.

The water wheel “cruise liner” crossing Le Petit Rhône

Horses waiting for the ferry called Bac du Sauvage

Ohoy, maties–grab super fresh fish here!

After wandering around the nature zone, ducking in and out of bird observatories, we headed to the funky fish shack called Cabanne du Pêcheur Chez Zu. The hitch is that this authentic, rustic eatery is on the other side of Le Petit Rhône from the nature park. But no need to drive in search of a bridge when you can slide onto a free, flat-bed water-wheel car ferry that whisks vehicles to the other side in about three minutes, every half hour–except during lunch. Walkers, cyclists, as well as horses, are welcome aboard the “cruise liner,” too.

Crispy calamar and Lotte tails with garlic sauce

Under sunny skies, we joined a dozen other couples on the terrace appointed with a mish-mash of weathered furniture to enjoy the river view and the delectable crispy monkfish called Lotte and tiny squid rings, accompanied by fabulous frites. Delicious and decadent it was!

While asleep, flamingos make for a beautiful, serene spectacle.

Wherever you are, dear readers, I wish you health, happiness and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is moving along. The initial, complete (albeit rough) draft will soon make its way to the beta reader stage. Loads of hoops to hop through but progress is happening.

PPS

For a splendid, off-the-beaten-track travel article on the Camargue, check out Alexis Steinman’s Cowboys and flamingos in the wild, wild South, New York Times, International Edition, 21 August 2024

Incredible Corsica

Scorching sunset sets mountains on fire, Calvi, Corsica

Stunning scenery, delicious cuisine, glorious beaches, and enchanting towns are all to be found on the Île de Beauté, the Island of Beauty.

Picture perfect pleasure boat port, Calvi

Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace duly impressed us earlier this month during our week-long stay in Calvi, in the northern sector–despite an island-wide, wildcat strike at airports and seaports two days before our departure, and Ralph’s altercation with a twin-engine Zodiac, an inflatable vessel. Luckily the grève ended in a day, not affecting our return flight to Marseille. And Ralph didn’t break any bones when he slipped while disembarking the cruise “ship” that had whisked us to the ultra wild Scandola Nature Preserve. (Though his hip bruise was a doozey.)

Swim the Med in early October? In Calvi, of course!

The fourth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, just seven miles north of Sardinia, Corsica became officially French around 1768. For the nearly 500 previous years, the ruggedly mountainous Île had been ruled by the Republic of Genoa. Consequently, the island radiates a unique blend of Italian and French flair.

Here, I’ll let the photos paint the picture:

Calvi from the Sentier de Douanes, Path of the Customs Officials

Master pizza maker Emmanuel shows off his dough tossing skills, A Punta

Figatellu, a local sausage, spices up pizza, A Punta

Mouthwatering moules-frites at Via Marina

Dramatic cliffs of Scandola Nature Preserve

A friendly Red Kite flew by almost daily.

The bronze Marinella Mermaid by Gabriel Diana, L’Île-Rousse

Take good care and all the best for health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

As for Pleasures of Provence…the good news is that a manuscript resembling a full first draft is done—I think. But whether or not it is, forward I go into the editing stage–hooray! All positive thoughts you care to share are most welcome:)

Côte d’Azur Rendez-vous

Nice, France, in mid-September. Yep, those are swimmers in the Med!

Twisting my arm to visit Nice is hardly necessary. In September, or any time of year, really, the splendiferous seaside city on the Côte d’Azur covers the three Es with ease–enchanting, enthralling and enticing its way into your heart. Whether it be the stunning architecture, inviting climate, dazzling Mediterranean location, buzzy ambiance, markets, vibrant cultural scene, or the diverse cuisine, one way or the other, this south-of-France metropolis is sure to capture your imagination one way or the other.

Strolling the Promenade des Anglais, along the Med

The impressive central train station in Nice

The daunting traffic, however, is not likely to be on anybody’s hit list. So when Ralph and I made a plan to rendezvous with a wonderful friend who was passing through the big city, we relied on the train to take us in—from Biot, a little town less than a half hour’s ride west of Nice.

Faux flowers adorn an ice cream shop in Valbonne

Staying in charming Valbonne–about two and a half hours from Saint-Rémy–we drove through the country to the Biot gare in 30 minutes, parked the car in a big lot next to the sea at no charge, hopped on the train, and presto, a few minutes later we arrived in Nice.

Amy Trowell (right), manager of the Around the World bookshop, holds *Passion for Provence*

Though our visit was short, it was oh-so-sweet. First we met our spirited writer friend Rena Pederson at the brand new English language bookstore called Around the World. It’s an off-shoot of the Librairie Masséna, “One of France’s leading independent bookshops,” according to The Connexion (2 Aug. ’24). We had a lovely time chatting with the charming British manager, Amy Trowell, and snooping through the variety of titles.

Delicious keftas from the tapas menu at Bocca Nissa

An Indian Silverbill entertained us on the rooftop terrace at Bocca.

The rooftop terrace of Bocca Nissa, a restaurant recently recommended in a New York Time’s article, was our choice for lunch. Not only was the repast scrumptious but there was an unexpected treat. Flitting about the trees on the terrace was a cute birdie called an Indian Silverbill, a new bird for our 2024 list.

Stunning architecture is eye-catching on Avenue Jean Médecin leading to Place Messéna.

Shopping at Galeries Lafayette, strolling the Promenade des Anglais, having coffee in the Marriott Méridien lounge—chatting up a storm along the way—occupied the rest of the afternoon. Good-byes are never easy but we were so pleased with ourselves that we’d made our rendezvous happen, smiles prevailed.

All set to dine al fresco on the terrace at Relais de la Poste, Valbonne

Deliciously spicy Thai chicken, Relais de la Poste

Back in Valbonne, we had a terrific meal at the welcoming Relais de la Poste, followed by a very badly timed walk back to the hotel during a determined downpour. Yep, we got a bit damp!

A dreamy night on Place des Arcades, Valbonne

A sunny lane leading to Place des Arcades, Valbonne

A cacophony of colors at a flower stall in the Valbonne market

But the next morning the soleil returned, illuminating the outdoor market stalls that envelope Valbonne village each Friday. And happily those sunbeams kept us company throughout our trek to chez nous, en Provence.

***

Wishing you all the best for happiness, health and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is gaining traction—hoorah!

PPS

If you’re a true crime fan, check out Rena’s latest book–the page-turning whodunit, King of Diamonds, about a Dallas jewel thief who worked throughout the 60s and was never caught. Nor were the gems found.

Summer Mini-break in Beguiling Bonnieux

Luscious Luberon Valley view from Clos de Buis

What began as a simple déjeuner idea became a mini-getaway—a surprising development during very high season in Provence.

The hotel piscine in a park-like setting

The lunch reservation had been locked in weeks ago at Ju-Maison de Cuisine in the Luberon hilltop town of Bonnieux, deux pas from Ménerbes of Peter Mayle fame. Since the village is only an hour from St. Rémy, the plan was to enjoy a luscious meal, stroll the bijou enclave and return home. Easy-peasy.

But as the date approached, the idea of staying the night gained momentum. And then arriving a day early hitched a ride on the single-night concept. But what were the chances of finding a room last minute for a weekend in August? It must have been a meant-to-be-er because the last available chambre at the charming hotel, Le Clos de Buis, located just across the street from the restaurant, waited for us.

Citadelle’s massive contemporary event space

Salade au chevre chaud, Bistrot de la Citadelle

Now that we had three days to fill, my agenda blossomed. Not to be missed was the Friday market in Bonnieux, followed by lunch at the Bistrot de la Citadelle at the Domaine de la Citadelle, where we picked up some wine—rosé, of course.

Next up, a visit to the Ménerbes house of Dora Maar (acclaimed photographer and Picasso’s long-time partner/muse) and also Château Canorgue–the winery and villa where A Good Year (with Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard) was filmed.

Attractive entrance to Le Wine Club Bistrot by D

Inventive, delectable amuses bouches, Ju-Maison de Cuisine

Hiking around the adorable village and lollygagging by the inviting hotel pool was utterly delightful. But let’s not forget the inspiration of the trip—the luscious lunch! Chef Julien Allano and his marvelous team delivered stunning cuisine (and service) from beginning to end. If you get the chance to go, do not hesitate. Reservations highly recommended!

All the very best for a wonderful rest of summer.

Wherever you are, wishing you happiness, health and hope.

Bises, Gayle

A wagtail making a speedy getaway after a quick pool sip.

Pleasures of Provence appears to be gaining momentum. It will be a long while before completion, but at least the pace is picking up!

Hiking High into the French Alps

The Val-Cenis region, near Champéry offers spectacular scenery.

Cicadas buzzing, rosé sipping, piscine splashing—all signal sizzling summertime in Provence. It’s an especially luscious season in the south of France, attracting loads of visitors and tourists, particularly this year with the Olympics in Paris. As residents, however, July and August are the months to forego the autoroute and stick to our own stomping grounds.

But pre-season—with the pleasant weather and lack of crowds—it’s a marvy time to explore further afield. Since June is my avian-loving husband’s birthday month, he had top pick. His choice—the Alps. At the higher altitudes he hoped to spot some special birds to include the Golden Eagle, White-winged Snow Finch, Rock Thrush and a feathered friend not graced with the most romantic name—the Bearded Vulture.

Fabulous goat cheese salad at Le Toët,
Col du Mont Cenis

Based in the stunning, off-the-beaten-track region of Val-Cenis, near Champéry, we braved steep and skinny alpine roads, hiked high to lakeside refuges, marveled at the rugged alpine beauty, communed with cows, greeted goats, fell for marmots, savored stick-to-your-ribs mountain fare, as we birded along the way.

White-tailed Snow Finch, by Francesco Veronesi, Wikimedia (cropped)

We searched long and hard for the Bearded Vulture to no avail. But the Golden Eagle paid us a visit on the first day at Col du Mont Cenis. And many other feathered friends did too like the brilliantly hued Rock Thrush. Plus, near the refuge at Plan du Lac, we lucked into front row seats at a prance-and-peck show staged by a pair of White-winged Snow Finches.

Welcoming team at Le Toët, Col du Mont Cenis

Val-Cenis may not be as glitzy as famous Chamonix or Mégève, but its natural beauty packs an equally powerful punch.

Phenomenal grilled *dorade* at Le Trappeur, Val-Cenis, Termignon

Termignon’s church glowing bright at night.

Stay healthy and hopeful and…have a Happy Summer!

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence (aka The Beast) is giving me a run for my money–but I’m trying to keep up!

Provence on a Plate: Top Saint-Rémy Producers’ Small Screen Moment

Les Alpilles preside over the area’s rich agricultural zone.

À table, mes amis! Come sit down for some mouthwatering meals—if only vicariously—with the celebrity chef Marcus Wareing, who hosts the recently released British TV series, Simply Provence. Throughout 15 episodes, this Michelin-starred chef highlights the products of a handful of the best producers in Provence. From tomatoes to chocolate, the curious and exacting chef goes to the source to find terrific local ingredients for meals that he prepares on a rooftop terrace.

A float in Saint-Rémy’s parade to honor of Saint Eloi, the patron saint of farmers.

And lo and behold, that rooftop terrace is right here in historic Saint-Rémy- de-Provence! In fact, we’ve walked right by the pale stone village house at least a zillion times and what’s more, we have patronized many of the producers and locales—so fun! And those we didn’t know, we are now tracking down which is also a complete delight!

Monique probably stocks the cheese you need.

Here are just a few of the highlights: A wide range of fromage can be found at the very well-stocked shop Monique in the historic center. Produce by Fabien Dumont and his lovely wife Lauren is as fresh as it comes. They have a stand at the Saint-Rémy market, both Saturday (in front of the exclusive Souleiado clothing shop) and on Wednesday, near the restaurant Marilyn. The olive oil from Moulin Castelas, on the other side of the Alpilles, below Les Baux, is simply exquisite. English-speaking Emilie, the daughter of the owners, does a super job leading the host around the domaine. We’ve known her for years–she was born in Arizona, in fact.

The restaurant Bar Tabac Les Alpilles, known for its lamb, is run by the perennially upbeat Patrick. Even if lamb is not your thing, the authentic brasserie is a nice spot to relax with a coffee or verre de vin. And for bread, Wareing goes to the Terre et Blé bakery (in the industrial zone) for its stellar loaves made from specially grown wheat. I rarely went there as it’s a bit off the beaten track but I’ll happily make the effort now. The thick and chewy wheat loaf I picked up recently was stunning toasted or not. The prize for poulets went to Eric Pons. This young fellow doesn’t have a stand in Saint-Rémy, but I’m hoping this will change. I wasn’t aware of his free-range chicken farm before seeing the show but now I’ve been informed that those “in the know” find them at the Utile grocery store in Eyragues, about 10 minutes from St. Rémy. They’re quite a bit more expensive than regular (less happy?) chickens, but we roasted one this weekend and it was incredibly delicious. (I did have to ask the butcher to remove the neck/head!)

Charming Joël Durand in his quaint shop in St. Rémy.

And lastly, there’s chocolate in a variety of forms and flavors by master chocolatier Joël Durand. In addition to chocolate candies, decadent toppings (sold in attractive jars) may temp you too. Whatever you purchase, you’ll most likely be offered a bite-sized sample of the specialty of the day—yum.

Master multi-tasker Jérôme runs Bienbon, Maison Favier and now Le Village.

Throughout the series, Mr. Wareing is accompanied by a super congenial restaurateur, Jérôme. He runs both Bienbon and Maison Favier restaurants, which serve inventive seasonal fare. And he just opened a tea room/ice cream shop/boutique called Le Village (on the site of the former Spar market). The comfy chairs outside offer a convenient place to relax while enjoying a coffee and perhaps a little treat, too.

Till next time, dear readers, stay safe, happy and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

Find ultra yummy sweet treats at Maison Gaillardet.

For those Saint-Rémy visitors with a sweet tooth, try the patisserie Maison Gaillardet for their specialty, the troprovençale, similar to the cream-filled tart, the tropézienne—heavenly! The small ones (4 euros) come in a cute little box.

Golden Eagle (cropped) by Giles Laurent, Wikimedia

PPS

Pleasures of Provence marches on–word by word, page by page. The Alps beckon, however, so I won’t be tapping on my laptop quite as much for a few days. But hopefully, the mountain air will prove inspirational. Plus, perhaps a Golden Eagle will fly our way. I’ve never seen one and Ralph has only spotted one once. We’ll do our best!

From Saint-Rémy to Mighty Montauban & Artsy Cordes sur Ciel

A Huguenot hotbed in the early seventeenth century, the city of Montauban in southwest France became the headquarters for the Protestant rebels in 1621. Legend has it that in order to end a lengthy siege, Catholic King Louis XIII’s army pummeled the town with 400 cannonballs. The townsfolk held and so did the phrase, faire les quatre cents coups, “to make 400 blows,” which morphed into an idiom meaning to raise hell or to live a wild life.

This upscale hardware-deco store has it all!

For the record, there may not have been anywhere near 400 “blows”on Montauban–though it might have felt like it–one of them left a canon-sized hole in the “L’Église Saint-Jacques. And regardless of the actual number of cannonball hits Montauban weathered, French film director Francois Truffaut set the 400-number in cinematic stone when he titled his acclaimed New Wave film about a rebellious youngster Les Quatre Cents Coups (1959).

Fabulous tuna amuse bouche, Antoine L’Omnivore

Scrumptious asparagus starter at Antoine L’Omnivore, Montauban

Superb lieu noir with moules and fresh veggies at welcoming 5 Bouchons

A fave olive oil producer–Castelas–from Provence!

Though I may harbor some rebel remnants, perhaps due to my Huguenot heritage—my grandmother on my dad’s side was a Michaux—on our four-day foray to Montauban, peace and harmony ruled. Our trip was all about meeting up with lovely friends, enjoying fine cuisine, and quietly following our noses—without a warring faction in sight.

Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1852: A Portrait of Caroline Gonse (facsimile)

Poster art at Musée Ingres: “Must women be nudes to enter the museum? Less than 3% of the artists are women but 83% of the nudes are women.”

Like its neighbor Toulouse, this town of 60 thousand residents on the River Tarn is constructed mainly of reddish-pink clay bricks. Just take a gander at the main square, Place Nationale, and you’ll get the pretty picture. Also, Montauban has a charming pedestrian old town filled with loads of spiffy boutiques, gorgeous green spaces, a terrific Musée Ingres Bourdelle, an extensive outdoor Saturday market and some upscale restaurants and a terrific museum, La Musée Ingres Bourdelle. (Surprising fact: During World War II, DaVinci’s Mona Lisa was spirited away to Montauban for safe keeping.)

Pretty Cordes sur Ciel is filled with artisan boutiques.

Sur les Paves, a cozy veggie restaurant, Cordes sur Ciel

In addition, it’s just an hour from the postcard pretty artisan enclave of Cordes sur Ciel.

Mais oui, Montauban is worth a detour!

All the best for a lovely rest-of-spring.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is taking shape–much like a hummingbird builds its nest–the Rome Way, not in a day. Truth be told, experiencing these tempting Provencal pleasures cuts in to typing time. But so be it–balance is key, n’est ce pas?

PPS

Though we hoped for a black woodpecker in the countryside outside Cordes-sur-Ciel, the noisy operator opted for seclusion. But on a follow-up trip to Saintes-Maries-de-Mer in the Camargue, this handsome grey heron struck a dignified pose.