food – Gayle Smith Padgett

A Trio of Special Sweet Treats…from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

The scrumptious enticements from Maison Gaillardet, in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Of the five basic food groups rarely touted by nutritionists–salt, fat, alcohol, caffeine, and sugar–it’s the last one that doesn’t hold great appeal for me. Well, at least, not since I lost interest in trick-or-treating. Given the choice between a bag of Ripples or chocolate-chip cookies, the salt-fat combo wins every time.

But, there are delicious exceptions that activate my sweet tooth, and three happen to be “native” to Saint-Rémy. All of these irresistible gems are found in centre ville shops, which are charmingly compact. Considering their popularity, a brief wait is typical, but despair not. Pausing allows time to consider all the exquisite possibilities on offer. You might need to expand your original order.

The charming Maître Chocolatier Joël Durand in his inviting shop in Saint-Rémy.

First up is the famous chocolate shop of Joël Durand, Maître Chocolatier. Established in 1996, this delightful boutique will make your head spin with its variety of chocolates and flavors, ranging from classic to exotic. Dark and milk chocolate versions abound, some loaded with all sorts of nuts.

Jars of buttery salted caramel line the shelves at Joël Durand.

But there’s one fabulous specialty item not related to a cocoa bean that you might miss if you didn’t know to look for it–crème caramel-beurre salé. Once you taste this buttery, salty caramel sauce, you’ll want to scoop it from the jar like ice cream from a tub. Look for the hexagonal-shaped glass jars, stacked right next to the chocolate sauces, which, of course, are exquisite, as well. Most likely, you’ll be tempted to acquire an assortment.

Maison Gaillardet’s specialty in the petite size.

Next is Maison Gaillardet, known for their Troprovençale, a take on the tarte tropézienne, a type of two-layered sponge cake with a fluffy cream filling, hailing from Saint-Tropez. The rendition Gaillardet produces is made with a lighter brioche-style cake flavored with orange blossom. In addition to the lovely traditional flavor, other delectable styles are on offer, such as lavender, coconut, and chocolate. Not only are they scrumptious, but they are packaged in spirited orange and white striped boxes. Be sure to order ahead if you need one for a special occasion.

The stack of Sacristains won’t last long.

Rounding up the trio is Boulangerie Bergese, near l’Église Saint-Martin, which offers a terrific assortment of breads, including their classic baguette, the Alpillette, along with buttery croissants, pains au chocolate, and too-pretty-to-eat patisserie. But among all this carby richness, there’s a treat not to be overlooked: the Sacristains. These long twists of frangipane aux amandes-filled puff pastries are dusted with sugar and toasted almonds. They’re heavenly but impossible to consume without creating a cloud of crumbs, so you might consider heading for a bench just around the corner on pretty Place Favier, where you can munch away with abandon. The pigeons will thank you.

Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Common Redstart photo by Jerzy Strzelecki, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Near the base of the Alpilles, Ralph and I spotted this cute Common Redstart, which has arrived a tad early for its summer holiday. Happy timing!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence: A Quest for the Secret to Joie de Vivre in La Belle France was released last month, and I’m pleased to report that it reached #1 Best Seller status on Amazon.com, in the categories of French Travel and Provence Travel Guides, which seems to be where travel memoirs land. At any rate, seeing the small red moniker next to my book was a kick. If you read on Kindle, you may be interested to know that for the next few days it’s priced at 99 cents: Pleasures of Provence. I hope that if you take a peek, you find the story engaging and uplifting too. If you do, it would mean a lot if you’d share your positive reaction with fellow Francophile readers. (Amazon and Goodreads would welcome these reviews too.) Merci beaucoup, in advance, for taking the time to do that. It’s much appreciated!

A New Year Amble Near Saint-Rémy: Villeneuve-les-Avignon

Avignon emerges through the mist–as seen from Fort Saint-André in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Bonne Année 2026 to all!

January in Saint-Rémy has brought chilly temps, and “damp,” gray days have been the norm. But then—surprise!—sunbeams burst forth, brightening the landscape and lifting spirits.

The positive vibes the sunshine brings made our little ramble ‘round Villeveuve-les-Avignon much sweeter. We hadn’t visited this petite enclave across the River Rhône from Avignon for quite some time, and I’d been wanting to check out a restaurant there called Maison Bronzini. So after an appointment in the former papal city (1309-1376), Ralph and I took advantage of the proximity to have a mini-adventure.

Here’s a glimpse of what we found:

Boulanger Patissier Marcellin offers a vast array of enticing delicacies

A gentleman takes advantage of the rain-free morning.

From under the arcades on sunny Place Meissonnier

No doorbell needed with this sturdy vintage knocker

Inviting Maison Bronzini offers an open fireplace!

Finding treasures in the boutique at Maison Bronzini was easy, but timing was off for a proper sit-down lunch in the restaurant. I can’t wait to return for an actual meal—the venue looks stunning, and I bet the cuisine team delivers meals to match.

***

Wherever you are, dear readers, all the best for happiness, health, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Red-breaster Merganser, by Chuck Homler, CC BY-SA 4.0, (cropped), Wikimedia Commons

Surrounded by oil refineries and Marseille airport, the Étang de Berre isn’t exactly Saint-Tropez. But much to our delight, a punky Red-breasted Merganser–which ranges widely in the northern hemisphere–found it suitably appealing, pushing Ralph’s year bird count to 60.

PPS

Pleasures of Provence: A Quest for the Secret to Joie de Vivre in La Belle France is edging toward publication. At this point, it’s a question of finalizing the cover and tweaking the formatting–stages that require scrutiny and patience. We’re progressing, however, and here’s hoping a March release is still possible. Watch this space!

Hail to Horses and “Taureau” Tradition in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

The Carreto Ramado (stuffed cart in Provençal) leads the traditional summer parade in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Mid-August in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is feria time. Over an extended weekend, the town salutes its equestrian and rural heritage with parades, special apèros, brass bands, and outdoor DJ-directed dance-o-thon evenings called bodégas. And, of course, there are loads of special events featuring horses and bulls that take place in arenas, as well as on the main square and in the streets—with spectators ensconced behind metal barricades.

The traditional costumes of the Arlésiennes date to the 18th century. The “look” includes an intricate hair bun and decorative headdress.

Of the variety of happenings, one event not to miss is the Défilé de la Carreto Ramado, the elaborate parade that includes the fabulous Arlésiennes, dressed in period costumes. An enormous cart decorated with colorful flags, green foliage, highlighted with braids of garlic, sunflowers, and bouquets of lavender, leads a procession of dozens of linked-together draught horses, sporting ornate harnesses festooned with pompoms and ribbons. It’s quite the spectacle! Have a look:

Traditional attire of long-sleeved shirts and vests are de rigueur though temps tip toward 100F.

Young equestrians promote the revered traditions.

Mayor Chérubini enjoying the festivities.

Some female equestrians sit side-saddle, their long gowns flowing over their steeds.

The post-parade party spills into the street.

Wherever you are this summer, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Gorgeous European roller courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci, CCASA 4.0, Wikimedia

The European roller is a summer favorite in these parts. Such a treat to see it fly!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is again with the primary editor, where, most likely, it will remain for a few weeks. When it returns, there will be more work to do—that is a given. When will it be ready for the proofreader? That, mes amis, is a complicated question. In the meantime, the trick is to keep on truckin’, n’est ce pas? And smiling!

A Winter Wander in Avignon…

The imposing Palais des Papes in Avignon under a cerulean blue winter sky.

First of all…

Bonne Année 2025 & Meilleurs Voeux à Tous!

Happy New Year & Best Wishes to all!

***

A banner at Avignon’s City Hall wishes all a lovely and happy New Year 2025.

Provence in winter usually means a crisp chill in the air but more often than not, sunshine reigns.

Avignon’s impressive main theater on Place de L’Horloge.

So when duty recently called Ralph and me to Avignon—about a half an hour north of Saint-Rémy—we took advantage of the opportunity to explore. Instead of racing in and out of the Papal City, we took care of business and stayed for lunch, roaming around the architecturally striking city in between. And all under a stunningly blue sky but sans the crush of the summer crowds who flood in for the famous performing arts fête, the Festival d’Avignon.

What a treat it was to stand practically by ourselves on Place du Palais and marvel at the impressive 14^th century papal palace, the Palais des Papes, home to seven popes between 1309 and 1377. Flanking the palace, the imposing Cathédral-Notre-Dame-des-Doms d’Avignon glistened in the morning sun.

On the pretty main square, Place de L’Horloge, the sunbeams danced off the elaborate Grand Opera which will have its 200^th birthday in October. Just a few meters away the stately Hôtel de Ville held court with the tricolor flag taking center stage, waving in the breeze.

The historic Chapellerie Mouret has been in business since 1860!

Along rue des Marchands, we strolled past countless adorable boutiques selling clothes, confections, berets, and blossoms, plus a variety of products made from local lavender and olives.

Patrons of Café Saint-Jean soak up the morning sunshine.

On Place Pie, we joined a dozen other sun worshipers on the terrace of Café Saint Jean for a café noisette, an espresso with a dollop of hot foamy milk. Afterward, we cruised the aisles of the historic indoor market called Les Halles, admiring the bounty of fruits, vegetables, pastries, seafood, meat, fromages, and spices—pretty much everything needed to compose a wonderful meal.

Avignon’s indoor market, Les Halles, is a gourmand’s paradise.

Find your favorite fromage at the creamery, La Maison du Fromage.

Meat lovers are sure to find their favorite cut here.

And a wonderful meal is exactly what’s found at Cuisine Centr’Halles, talented American Chef Jonathan Chiri’s restaurant. This charismatic Californian native earned his refined cuisine stripes at top restaurants around the world, to include the Michelin-starred restaurant at the 5-starred luxury hotel La Mirande right around the corner in Avignon. (He also taught at their cooking school.) For lucky guests at his restaurant tucked into Les Halles, he prepares fresh, inventive, scrumptious lunches in an open-plan arrangement.

The day we were there, while we waited for our starter, he kindly offered us a yummy chickpea dip punctuated with lemon confit, which gave it a delightful punch. Afterward, we enjoyed the bubbling hot, crunchy-topped appetizer of a goat cheese melange made with loads of garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs—fabulous! Ralph chose the extraordinarily delicious stuffed veggies—he offered a bite!—and I devoured a moist, herby turkey roulade in a rich reduction sauce, served with a colorful array of charred vegetables and a ramekin of a creamy polenta.

Throughout the meal, we’d been sipping a delightful recommendation by Nienke, the engaging sommelier and server. After inquiring about our tastes, she’d poured a dry white wine from Domaine de Laballe called Sables Fauves. We thoroughly enjoyed it and relayed that message to Niente and Chef Chiri who noted it comes from the Landes department, south of Bordeaux.

Chef Chiri and Nienke, with *moi* in the middle

It’s a wine region we haven’t explored much. But we sure will now—a happy addition for the New Year’s to-do list.

All the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful 2025.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is moving forward. Restructuring some chapters and revising the ending is taking some time but no way ‘round it to get to the place I think it needs to be. It feels like I’m on the right track, but there’s a ways to go. Pas à pas as they say here—step by step.

PPS

When a VERY RARE bird alert came through for the Lesser Flamingo, Ralph and I twitched! On 29 December we hustled to the Camargue and saw the coral-pink wonder–it’s the one in the back. The singular bird pranced among no fewer than 1,800 pale pink Greater Flamingos. Sorry to say, I forgot my camera so this is the best I could do with my phone that we placed on the spotting scope. It was a thrill to watch it preen, splash, and even take a nap!