europe – Page 2 – Gayle Smith Padgett

Provence on a Plate: Top Saint-Rémy Producers’ Small Screen Moment

Les Alpilles preside over the area’s rich agricultural zone.

À table, mes amis! Come sit down for some mouthwatering meals—if only vicariously—with the celebrity chef Marcus Wareing, who hosts the recently released British TV series, Simply Provence. Throughout 15 episodes, this Michelin-starred chef highlights the products of a handful of the best producers in Provence. From tomatoes to chocolate, the curious and exacting chef goes to the source to find terrific local ingredients for meals that he prepares on a rooftop terrace.

A float in Saint-Rémy’s parade to honor of Saint Eloi, the patron saint of farmers.

And lo and behold, that rooftop terrace is right here in historic Saint-Rémy- de-Provence! In fact, we’ve walked right by the pale stone village house at least a zillion times and what’s more, we have patronized many of the producers and locales—so fun! And those we didn’t know, we are now tracking down which is also a complete delight!

Monique probably stocks the cheese you need.

Here are just a few of the highlights: A wide range of fromage can be found at the very well-stocked shop Monique in the historic center. Produce by Fabien Dumont and his lovely wife Lauren is as fresh as it comes. They have a stand at the Saint-Rémy market, both Saturday (in front of the exclusive Souleiado clothing shop) and on Wednesday, near the restaurant Marilyn. The olive oil from Moulin Castelas, on the other side of the Alpilles, below Les Baux, is simply exquisite. English-speaking Emilie, the daughter of the owners, does a super job leading the host around the domaine. We’ve known her for years–she was born in Arizona, in fact.

The restaurant Bar Tabac Les Alpilles, known for its lamb, is run by the perennially upbeat Patrick. Even if lamb is not your thing, the authentic brasserie is a nice spot to relax with a coffee or verre de vin. And for bread, Wareing goes to the Terre et Blé bakery (in the industrial zone) for its stellar loaves made from specially grown wheat. I rarely went there as it’s a bit off the beaten track but I’ll happily make the effort now. The thick and chewy wheat loaf I picked up recently was stunning toasted or not. The prize for poulets went to Eric Pons. This young fellow doesn’t have a stand in Saint-Rémy, but I’m hoping this will change. I wasn’t aware of his free-range chicken farm before seeing the show but now I’ve been informed that those “in the know” find them at the Utile grocery store in Eyragues, about 10 minutes from St. Rémy. They’re quite a bit more expensive than regular (less happy?) chickens, but we roasted one this weekend and it was incredibly delicious. (I did have to ask the butcher to remove the neck/head!)

Charming Joël Durand in his quaint shop in St. Rémy.

And lastly, there’s chocolate in a variety of forms and flavors by master chocolatier Joël Durand. In addition to chocolate candies, decadent toppings (sold in attractive jars) may temp you too. Whatever you purchase, you’ll most likely be offered a bite-sized sample of the specialty of the day—yum.

Master multi-tasker Jérôme runs Bienbon, Maison Favier and now Le Village.

Throughout the series, Mr. Wareing is accompanied by a super congenial restaurateur, Jérôme. He runs both Bienbon and Maison Favier restaurants, which serve inventive seasonal fare. And he just opened a tea room/ice cream shop/boutique called Le Village (on the site of the former Spar market). The comfy chairs outside offer a convenient place to relax while enjoying a coffee and perhaps a little treat, too.

Till next time, dear readers, stay safe, happy and hopeful.

Bises, Gayle

Find ultra yummy sweet treats at Maison Gaillardet.

For those Saint-Rémy visitors with a sweet tooth, try the patisserie Maison Gaillardet for their specialty, the troprovençale, similar to the cream-filled tart, the tropézienne—heavenly! The small ones (4 euros) come in a cute little box.

Golden Eagle (cropped) by Giles Laurent, Wikimedia

PPS

Pleasures of Provence marches on–word by word, page by page. The Alps beckon, however, so I won’t be tapping on my laptop quite as much for a few days. But hopefully, the mountain air will prove inspirational. Plus, perhaps a Golden Eagle will fly our way. I’ve never seen one and Ralph has only spotted one once. We’ll do our best!

From Saint-Rémy to Mighty Montauban & Artsy Cordes sur Ciel

A Huguenot hotbed in the early seventeenth century, the city of Montauban in southwest France became the headquarters for the Protestant rebels in 1621. Legend has it that in order to end a lengthy siege, Catholic King Louis XIII’s army pummeled the town with 400 cannonballs. The townsfolk held and so did the phrase, faire les quatre cents coups, “to make 400 blows,” which morphed into an idiom meaning to raise hell or to live a wild life.

This upscale hardware-deco store has it all!

For the record, there may not have been anywhere near 400 “blows”on Montauban–though it might have felt like it–one of them left a canon-sized hole in the “L’Église Saint-Jacques. And regardless of the actual number of cannonball hits Montauban weathered, French film director Francois Truffaut set the 400-number in cinematic stone when he titled his acclaimed New Wave film about a rebellious youngster Les Quatre Cents Coups (1959).

Fabulous tuna amuse bouche, Antoine L’Omnivore

Scrumptious asparagus starter at Antoine L’Omnivore, Montauban

Superb lieu noir with moules and fresh veggies at welcoming 5 Bouchons

A fave olive oil producer–Castelas–from Provence!

Though I may harbor some rebel remnants, perhaps due to my Huguenot heritage—my grandmother on my dad’s side was a Michaux—on our four-day foray to Montauban, peace and harmony ruled. Our trip was all about meeting up with lovely friends, enjoying fine cuisine, and quietly following our noses—without a warring faction in sight.

Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1852: A Portrait of Caroline Gonse (facsimile)

Poster art at Musée Ingres: “Must women be nudes to enter the museum? Less than 3% of the artists are women but 83% of the nudes are women.”

Like its neighbor Toulouse, this town of 60 thousand residents on the River Tarn is constructed mainly of reddish-pink clay bricks. Just take a gander at the main square, Place Nationale, and you’ll get the pretty picture. Also, Montauban has a charming pedestrian old town filled with loads of spiffy boutiques, gorgeous green spaces, a terrific Musée Ingres Bourdelle, an extensive outdoor Saturday market and some upscale restaurants and a terrific museum, La Musée Ingres Bourdelle. (Surprising fact: During World War II, DaVinci’s Mona Lisa was spirited away to Montauban for safe keeping.)

Pretty Cordes sur Ciel is filled with artisan boutiques.

Sur les Paves, a cozy veggie restaurant, Cordes sur Ciel

In addition, it’s just an hour from the postcard pretty artisan enclave of Cordes sur Ciel.

Mais oui, Montauban is worth a detour!

All the best for a lovely rest-of-spring.

Bises, Gayle

Pleasures of Provence is taking shape–much like a hummingbird builds its nest–the Rome Way, not in a day. Truth be told, experiencing these tempting Provencal pleasures cuts in to typing time. But so be it–balance is key, n’est ce pas?

PPS

Though we hoped for a black woodpecker in the countryside outside Cordes-sur-Ciel, the noisy operator opted for seclusion. But on a follow-up trip to Saintes-Maries-de-Mer in the Camargue, this handsome grey heron struck a dignified pose.

Quoi de Neuf à Saint-Rémy-de-Provence?

What’s new in St. Rémy? Well, as the Greek philosopher Heraclitus is known to have said, “The only constant in life is change.” And so it goes in Saint-Rémy, where Greeks once roamed. This vibrant town nestled into the foothills of the Alpilles continues to reinvent itself in ways big and small.

A flower plot brightens up the new road.

Here are some of the latest developments from roadworks to restaurants.

After many months of construction aimed to smooth the chemin south, that well deserved the nickname Pothole Alley, the traffic can now sail smoothly straight up and over the Alpilles. Happily, gone are the dreaded deep yellow Deviation signs that directed traffic through the Tourist Office parking lot to an alternating traffic light that was meant to keep the flow of cars all moving in single direction at any given time, but not always with 100% success. (Try negotiating a way ‘round a massive cement truck on a skinny one-lane road—grrrr.)

Also, now the street sports a lovely bike path and attractive wood barriers, along with beaucoup fleurs. The parking lot at the Tourist Office has been greatly expanded and charging stations installed. In the process, the former boules courts delineated with rustic railway ties got gobbled up—and I do miss them—but a sleek new court was installed on the south side of the kiddie playground.

For the residents in centre ville, losing the little grocery store called SPAR was a blow. Word on the street is that the family who ran the franchaise, tried to find a buyer to continue it as a grocery store but without luck. The private party who bought it is now renovating it. It may be a type of deli but time will tell.

What was old is new again. What will be on the ground floor, one wonders?

Down the road from the former SPAR, across from the Nostradamus fountain, a beautifully renovated building has been revealed. It was vacant for eons and then under a construction wrap for a long while. Now the gorgeous structure is garnering accolades galore. The rumor is that it will house several apartments with commercial space on the ground floor—surely to command posh prices.

Cafe La Place, formerly Cafe de la Place, on Place de la République.

On the restaurant front, the big news is that Café de la Place—in former times—the place to see and be seen, on Place de la République, is under new ownership. The current proprietors who run a much acclaimed restaurant in Arles called L’Apsara have bought it and cleverly changed the name ever so slightly to Café La Place. It’s now sans “de” and offers a pan-Asian menu. First reports are that dishes can be bland but other diners we know have given it a thumbs up. We shall see!

The delightful and delicious Bienbon on a quiet side street.

The venerable resto L’Estagnol on Boulevard Marceau is now L’Ao. Also, La Table de Nicolas, which has been boarded up for ages, shows signs of clean-up activity, which is promising. And the cozy but yummy seafood eatery Gus is set to take over the space where the spacious Café Célestine was on Boulevard Victor Hugo. Always coming up with something new, Maison Favier’s congenial Jerome tells me that at his other restaurant called Bienbon, he’ll have guest chefs for a week-long stints—not only French, but also Lebanese and American. Can’t wait!

The “new” pharmacy in centre ville is spruced up with *fleurs* out front.

But perhaps closest to my heart is the change of ownership—and name—of the former Pharmacie La Croix Verte, now Pharmacie de la Collégiale. It’s located next to the town’s church, L’Église Saint-Martin, technically, La Collégiale de Saint-Martin, so the name fits. But most importantly, the terrific former staff remains. Our attachment to these caring folks has a long history. Way back in the early 90s, on our first visit to St. Rémy, Ralph had to enlist their services—after hours. I’d fainted from a powerful shooting back pain and fallen over backwards in a hotel after heaving an overloaded suitcase onto the bed. A doctor had come to the room within minutes and prescribed some meds. It was late by then but Saint-Rémy had us covered. Outside the closed pharmacy was a magic bell, which the good doctor had told Ralph about. After a buzzing it, someone appeared, took the prescription and filled it!

The site of Les Antiques, on the outskirts of St.Rémy

Regardless of the changes—at least for the time being—Saint-Rémy remains a small town at heart and its authenticity still shines through. The traditional fêtes like the carnaval parade, which shouts good riddance to winter and hello spring with celebratory good cheer; is a big crowd pleaser; the Roman ruins, Les Antiques, shimmer in the sunshine; and the psychiatric hospital, Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh stayed a year and painted over 150 works to include The Starry Night, still houses patients in one section and in another welcomes busloads of visitors yearly.

The Wednesday market thrives under sunny skies.

And of course, the renown Wednesday market is as vibrant as ever—unless the mistral is raging. That’s another constant. Perhaps not one we fully embrace, but revere it or resent it, this powerful wind is a Saint-Rémy characteristic that is undeniably genuine.

***

Wishing you health and hope—forever a happy combo.

Bises, Gayle

Dazzling Hoopoe.
(Image by JaceBen, Pixabay)

While enjoying my first cuppa on our sunny terrace earlier this week, one of my favorite feathered friends flew by—the impressively sensational Hoopoe. A great start to the day.

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is moving forward—not nearly as zippy as a Hoopoe’s flight trajectory, but steadily, more like a flamingo, sifting the mud for tasty morsels.

A Winter Escape: Provence to Paris

An illuminated Eiffel Tower wows passengers on an evening cruise on the Seine.

Van Gogh made me go. To Paris, that is. Not that the City of Light needed any more allure than it already has to draw me in. And by the fast train, the TGV, this magnificent city with its powerful je ne sais quoi energy is reachable in less than 3 hours from Avignon, just 20 minutes north of Saint-Rémy.

So why now? Because for the first time ever, the much acclaimed exposition of paintings from Van Gogh’s last months in the town of Auvers-sur-Oise (30 kilometers north of Paris) was in full swing at my beloved Musée d’Orsay. This former train station houses an incredible range of works by my favorite Impressionists and Post-Impressionists and a treasure trove of other magnificent masterpieces. The expo would end the beginning of February, so if I wanted to witness this extraordinary collection by the Dutch master who spent a year in at a psychiatric hospital Saint-Rémy, this was the time.

Vintage poster of the Auvers-sur-Oise train station

Portrait of Dr. Paul Gachet, 1890, Auvers

The Van Gogh exhibition lived up to its hype but, the crowds rendered lingering pretty much impossible. Happily, the rest of the museum had plenty of room to roam through the insanely incredible permanent collection–to include many by Van Gogh which he painted before relocating in Auvers-sur-Oise.

The five-day, cram-packed trip was a non-stop whirlwind. I’d over-programmed to the hilt and beyond–even excluding the main tourists sites because we’d been there done that over the years. So we focused on art and architecture, to include the expo by the Latvian-American abstract painter Mark Rothko at the crazy cool Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton–fashioned after a ship–as well as the Berthe Morisot exhibition at the Musée Marmottan. And we revisited some old haunts like the Luxembourg Gardens and Place Vosges, and indulged in some terrific culinary delights. Luckily, the weather cooperated, which was nothing short of a miracle the end of January, allowing us to walk everywhere. In fact, the last full day there, we clocked 25,000 steps–yikes!

The superbly renovated department store, La Samaritaine

The glorious stained glass dome at Galeries Lafayette

Frank Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuitton, a splendid art venue

German artist Katharina Grosse’s “Canyon,” 2022, Acrylic on 8 aluminum petals at the Fondation Louis Vuitton

Wait staff at the ready, Le Train Bleu, Gare de Lyon

To cap off the visit, we planned on a “bite” at the splendiferous restaurant Le Train Bleu, at the Gare de Lyon. It’s one of revered food critic Alexander Lobrano’s top 30 restaurants in Paris listed in his compelling book, My Place at the Table, so I was keen to try it. There wasn’t time for a relaxed meal in the ornate main dining room–as this quite pricey option merits–so we headed to the extensive “bar” area, which offers much more casual and reasonable fare. The Caesar salad and club sandwich were sensational. Highly recommend!

At the other end of the spectrum are the falafel pitas we picked up at Maoz (Latin Quarter). Stuffed with fresh veggies selected from a serve-yourself bar, they were delicious. And munching them on a bench, near the Seine while people-watching under sunny skies, made a happy memory.

Historic Brasserie Balzar is ever popular

And in between is Brasserie Balzac, which I’d read about in The New York Times. Hemingway and his crew used to hang out there. We just happened to be passing by around 1:30 PM en route to Luxembourg Gardens. Without a reservation at this historic haunt, which we assumed would be packed, we prepared ourselves to be turned away. Instead, we were greeted most warmly and seated right away at a well-positioned table–one of the few still available. The roast chicken was incredible and the ambiance authentic and lively.

Kids sail boats on a pond in Luxembourg Gardens

Vintage photo Berthe Morisot, Musée Marmottan

Before I sign off, a few words of advice if you are planning a Paris trip soon. Chances are crowds will be even greater as the weather warms and the Olympics near, so be prepared for extended waits, be it trying to buy a metro ticket, browse in Shakespeare & Co. book shop, or munch a decadent treat at Angelina, the elegant pastry shop/restaurant. Target your top must-see and dos and calculate distances/time–considering construction delays–to avoid meltdowns. (Who, moi?) If you do end up walking more than you’d planned on, more reason to wear ultra comfy walking shoes—your footsies (and your emotional state) will thank you.

Bises, Gayle

Cascading blooms adorn cafes across the city

Yes, I’m beavering away on Book Three, to which, for the moment, I’ve assigned the working title, Pleasures of Provence. This seems fitting since it points to the special aspects of life in this region that I’ll strive to convey, perhaps in some surprising ways.

A Rose-ringed Parakeet wishes us adieu by Musée Marmottan.

PPS

Our last day in Paris was dull and gray. But, this cooperative feathered friend–a Rose-ringed Parakeet–flitting about the park by the Musée Marmottan perked up our spirits when it posed for a moment as if to say, “Au revoir et bonne route!”

Joyeux Fêtes 2023!

In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, l’Église Saint Martin all aglow for the holidays

Dear Readers,

From a tad-bit-chilly but mostly sunny Saint-Rémy-de-Provence…

Wherever you may be, I hope that you and your loved ones are well and that this holiday time brings you joy. Wishing you all the very, very best for a safe, healthy, happy, and hopeful 2024!

My heartfelt appreciation goes out to each and every one of you for your spirited support of this blog (and Instagrams!) throughout the year. And for continuing to spread the word about The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie, as well as Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie. With all my heart, Mille Fois Merci!

As 2023 draws to a close and we begin New Year 2024, I hope you’ll venture into nature more and more—and with a particular interest in watching and listening to our feathered friends. To identify birdsong, try the free app called Merlin—très easy and fun.

Grosses bises, Gayle

Book Number Three is in the works. Progress would be much faster if I weren’t distracted by so many of the enticing pleasures of Provence—like discovering there’s a direct train from Avignon to Mannheim, next door to Heidelberg, where Ralph and I lived and worked for many years. So a few weeks ago, we hopped aboard the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) to catch up with friends and visit the Christmas market—like a mini Strassbourg marché de noël. It was as delightful as ever, especially the Friesen Punsch, a special vin chaud with an extra bloop of rum—yummy! After freezing for a week, it was lovely to return to the relative warmth of Saint-Rémy, and much of the time, glorious sapphire skies.

Heidelberg Castle above the Old Bridge and Neckar River—forever a stunning sight to behold.

*Holiday Book Sale on Amazon: A gift idea for your Francophile friends, perhaps? The Kindle version of both Passion for Provence and The Birdwatcher’s Wife will be on sale ($2.99) throughout December. Happy reading!