Artsy Autumn in Provence

Mont Sainte-Victoire (1897, oil on canvas), one of over 35 oils and 45 watercolors of the mountain near Aix-en-Provence that so captivated Cezanne.

Autumn and art, a perfect pairing. When the vines begin to turn rusty gold and deep crimson, marking the end of the summer crowds in our popular Provençal patch, it’s time to put away the parasol and seek some culture.

This particular change of seasons was my cue to check out a couple of standout events spotlighting two French titans of art history: Monet, Founder of Impressionism (Claude Monet, 1840-1926) at the Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, and Cezanne au Jas de Bouffan, (Paul Cezanne, 1839-1906) at the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Carrières des Lumières is a former interior quarry, repurposed as a stunning art venue featuring immersive sound and light art-themed spectacles. Each year, the program showcases different artists, but one aspect remains the same—the wow factor, and not just for the stunning visuals but also the dramatic musical accompaniment. I’ve been to nearly every one over the years, and though I’ve loved some more than others—Chagall (2016-17) and Picasso (2018-19) are faves to date—this one starring Claude Monet was impressive. During one segment, for example, you really feel like you’re on a moving train, watching the landscape whiz by.

Here are some highlights:

Luckily, Ralph and I made it to the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence before the terrific Paul Cezanne expo ended on 12 October. I should not have waited till the last minute, because I could have been out of luck finding tickets to the massively popular show and missed out on experiencing the unique collection of iconic works by the “Father of Modern Art.” Because Cezanne veered away from capturing fleeting moments as the Impressionists did and concentrated on exploring rule-breaking perspectives of form, structure, and color, he paved the way for 20th-century masters. Both Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse are known to have agreed that Cezanne was the “father of us all.”  

Here are some of my favorites:

The Card Players, oil on canvas, painted between 1893 and 1896.
The Women Bathers, oil on canvas, circa 1895
Still Life with Apples, oil on canvas,1895-98

One last note on the Cezanne show. The collection included just one painting of Mont Sainte-Victoire, but it meant a lot to me. After having lived in Aix for 18 months–before moving to Saint-Rémy–we often walked to the plateau where Cezanne set up his easel to paint the multi-faceted mountain. I loved gazing at it, watching the light and shadows dance across its rugged surface, each snapshot offering a different perspective for seeing the world. Because I came to feel connected to it on a certain level, I felt closer to the region, as well. We never hiked the mountain, though, and that’s something I’d like to do one day–another item for the bucket list.

Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you happiness, health, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Black Stork by Frank Vassen, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

PS

On the birding front, the Black Stork gets top billing this month—the impressive bird and its mates are back in Provence for the winter!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is making its way toward the home stretch. The editor plans to send me the manuscript within a week, and then I can begin what hopefully is the final edit. When I’m finished with it (or it’s finished with me) and somehow the project is proclaimed “done,” next stop proofreader. Then the focus will turn to publication prep, and, of course, the cover. It will be similar to Passion for Provence, but distinctive. If you have any ideas, please pass them along!