history – Gayle Smith Padgett

“Basque-ing” in the Delights of Saint-Jean-de-Luz

The Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz from Pointe Sainte-Barbe

Surf’s up in Saint-Jean-de-Luz—and not just at the beach.

La Grande Plage, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, is steps from downtown, packed with boutiques and cafes.

This seafaring city near the Spanish border is awash with a vibrant let’s-go-and-do energy. No matter whether you’re atop a board, catching a wave on La Grande Plage or perched on a bistro stool, people-watching in Place Louis XIV, a distinct dynamism is sure to engulf you.

Signage in both French and Basque announces the presence of a dolphin in the bay, which we saw!

This buzzy vibe may be due in no small part to the area’s unique cultural mix, and specifically to its bilingual context. The Basque cultural region may have fuzzy demarcations, stretching from Spain’s northeastern corner across into southwestern France, but its distinctive language—with no known linguistic relatives—is clearly marked pretty much everywhere. From traffic signs to restaurant menus, both French and Basque languages are on display. This integral part of the fabric of life here lends the area a formidable layer of substance, along with an exotic, spirited dimension.

That spunky vitality is most obvious at the shore. The natural setting is so jaw-droppingly gorgeous, your first instinct may be to jump up and down and clap your hands like a little kid, just before scooting down to the sand to dig your toes in—as well you should. Stretching for about a kilometer, the wide beach invites all types of merrymakers. There’s plenty of room to throw Frisbees, build sandcastles, or walk laps barefoot through the ripples. You can also loop around along the wide elevated promenade, where you’ll share the space with baby buggies and selfie-snapping tourists.

View from the terrace of the snazzy Grand Hôtel Spa & Thalasso, right on the promenade.

Either route you take, in this zeal-filled town, you’ll be treated to endless scenes of people on the move, jogging, hiking, cycling, and engaged in all manner of water sports, including waist-deep water walking—called longe-côte. Whatever the endeavor, all parties are privileged to soak up the superlative views of the crescent bay, hugged by emerald mountains and, along the promenade, distinctive Basque architecture.

And after the thrill of experiencing all the energy—as a participant or a mere observer—nourishment is de rigueur. And what a stellar array of options there are in this foodie town. If a picnic is in order, head to the covered market, Les Halles, for supplies, or if it’s Tuesday or Friday, stock up at the bustling outdoor stalls encircling Les Halles.

Customers await their turn at their favorite stalls.

For a more formal meal, choose from one of the countless bistros and gourmet restaurants in town or along the coast for dazzling views. The meal that sent us over the moon was at Chez Mattin, located in a residential area in Ciboure, across La Nivelle River, on the south side of the port.

A reserved table at Chez Mattin awaits its lucky guests

I’d made a lunch reservation online at the historic, family-run establishment—in business since the 1970s—but upon arrival, Madame Niquet found no record of it. And, there were no unclaimed tables—the place was packed. (I found out later my reservation hadn’t actually been confirmed.) But when the proactive owner learned it was our anniversary, she took no time hustling up a temporary table, placing it by the bar, close to the hustle-bustle, which added to the festive mood.

Cookbook by Chez Mattin owners Michel et Céline Niquet.

A rich soupe de poisson amuse-bouche served in a shot glass preceded our entrée of sardines, prepared two ways—grilled and pan-fried. Both were extraordinary in their simplicity, as were our main dishes. No fussy flower petals precisely positioned with tweezers here. Our whitefish dishes were unbelievably fresh, surrounded by an array of colorful seasonal veggies, resting in either a spiced-just-right celeriac emulsion or a velvety bouillabaisse sauce. These dishes offered a satisfying depth of flavor that pushed our savor sensors into high gear. We lingered as long as we could, enjoying the convivial ambiance, until the last sip of our wine. Thankfully, our bike ride home was downhill, so we cruised carefree and chuffed, feeling like we’d hit a culinary jackpot, a fitting way to celebrate our special day.

A Great Egret saunters through the Nature Reserve Marais d’Orx

A rainbow of colorful espadrilles for tiny feet

The week went by in a flash, filled with hiking up to the Pointe Sainte-Barbe and over to the Plage d’Erromardie, making a birding excursion to the Réserve Naturelle Nationale du Marais d’Orx, the nature park north of Biarritz, St. Jean de Luz’s glitzy neighbor, cycling on our foldables all over town, and meandering through the network of pedestrian streets, checking out the boutiques. (I loved Bayona for artisanal espadrilles and Maison Jean-Vier for authentic stripes-centric Basque textiles. The historic company also has a large concept store with furniture close to Guéthary).

Park Victoria’s distant view of La Rhune mountain peak

And, of course, we made the most of the gigantic pool at the inviting enclave of Park Victoria, where we were staying. Though the grounds were lush and our apartment stylishly design-forward, a sea view remained out of sight. Mesmerizing by day and night, that undulating vista called to us relentlessly throughout our stay, which just has to mean that we will be back.

Another enchanting sunset over the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz

And on that happy occasion, I’ll ensure our digs come with a vue mer, and I’ll schedule our visit better, allowing us to be on site by Sunday morning. This trip, that was the only time period we weren’t in St. Jean, so I missed a fave activity—roaming the outdoor market in Ciboure, with vendors selling non-food items like textiles, ceramics, and baskets.

Festive staffers ready to take orders at the Festival Andalou

Despite my flawed planning regarding the restaurant booking and market miss, we reveled in our St. Jean sojourn, and it ended on a super festive note. The night before our departure, we received a great send-off, marked by the Festival Andalou (Andalusian Festival), a salute to southern Spain. The multi-day event featured colorful flamenco dancers, concerts, and plenty of paella, tapas, and ice-cold cerveza. Olé!

Twinkly lights illuminate the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises,

Gayle

Photo (cropped) of a Little Bittern by Ron Knight, UK, CC BY 2.0, https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The bird of the month for June is the normally shy Little Bittern that paid Ralph a rare visit the other day at l’Étang des Aulne, about a 40-minute drive from Saint-Rémy.

PPS

Book News

Happily, my first book, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie, is enjoying a bit of attention lately. So in a few days, it will be part of a Kindle Countdown promotion on Amazon. On 15 June, the cost will be 99 cents and then increase by about a dollar daily until it reaches its regular price of $5.99. If you (or a Francophile friend) prefer to read on Kindle and haven’t read it yet, this would be a fine time! Passion for Provence on Amazon.com

As for Pleasures of Provence, it is making its way around the world in unexpected ways. Devoted fans from the South Pacific have arranged for an inscribed copy to be shepherded across the seas by special envoy, taking several weeks, including a stopover at a South American embassy. What other gratifying surprise might be in store—a call from Oprah? Well, while we’re dreaming, might as well go big, n’est-ce pas?😊 Pleasures of Provence on Amazon.com

Playing Tour Guide in Our Patch of Provence

Stunning Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, about 40 minutes from Saint-Rémy.

Showing off our Provençal playground to visitors always promises oohs and ahhs of delight. And that’s just me. Playing tour guide in and around Saint-Rémy gives me the opportunity to see my adopted home from different perspectives, which is gratifying in fresh new ways.

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue shimmers under sunny skies.

But donning my host hat means giving the travelers the best experience. And a key trick to guests getting the biggest kick possible out of the area’s treasures is tailoring the tours to match their preferred interests.

A collection of straw hats as outdoor decor on Place Favier,

Happily, my latest “tourees” were devoted foodies, marketers, and art-and-architecture lovers like me, and also shared my penchant for hiking the hills. So, designing an itinerary was a snap.

We covered a good amount of territory in a few days, aiming for a rich, yet unrushed roster of activities—always staying flexible and keeping tabs on energy levels. After their Lyon to Arles river cruise, my buddies were anxious to get out and about. To that end, we caught up as we ambled around old-town St. Rémy, admiring the pretty squares—particularly Place Favier and Place Pellissier—and pausing at art galleries and boutiques. We strolled up to the sanitarium Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh stayed (1889-1890)—and painted The Starry Night—and walked across the foothills of the Alpilles, taking in one of the best overviews of the town.

A starter at Le Capoun–*mais oui*, asparagus season is here!

When the weather cooperated, we enjoyed apèros on the terrace and lingered over lunch featuring salades de chèvre chaud. Luckily, the day that Mother Nature decided to throw a “damp” tantrum, we had reservations for a special déjeuner at Le Capoun.

A photograph of Picasso merged with a self-portrait at Carrières des Lumières

Other highlights were Saint-Rémy’s fabulous Wednesday outdoor market and Carrières des Lumières, for the immersive sound-and-light show starring Picasso and the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Excursions to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Aix-en-Provence rounded out the visit.

A vineyard view from the foothills of the Alpilles, above Saint-Rémy

Then came the hard part—saying au revoir to my très chères amies. But we made memories that we’ll treasure…forever.

***

Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

When May rolls around, so do Rollers—remarkable!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is making its way around the world. I always love to hear how the story resonates with readers, so if you have a favorite part (or parts!), please do let me know. And if you’d like to share your enthusiasm on Amazon or Goodreads, that would be marvelous. Many, many heartfelt thanks in advance for taking the time for that—it means a ton.

Artsy Autumn in Provence

*Mont Sainte-Victoire* (1897, oil on canvas), one of over 35 oils and 45 watercolors of the mountain near Aix-en-Provence that so captivated Cezanne.

Autumn and art, a perfect pairing. When the vines begin to turn rusty gold and deep crimson, marking the end of the summer crowds in our popular Provençal patch, it’s time to put away the parasol and seek some culture.

*Portrait of the Artist with Pink Background* (c.1875, oil on canvas), by Paul Cezanne, “Father of Modern Art.”

This particular change of seasons was my cue to check out a couple of standout events spotlighting two French titans of art history: Monet, Founder of Impressionism (Claude Monet, 1840-1926) at the Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, and Cezanne au Jas de Bouffan, (Paul Cezanne, 1839-1906) at the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

La Fontaine de la Rotunde welcomes visitors to Aix-en-Provence, a city of art and culture.

Carrières des Lumières is a former interior quarry, repurposed as a stunning art venue featuring immersive sound and light art-themed spectacles. Each year, the program showcases different artists, but one aspect remains the same—the wow factor, and not just for the stunning visuals but also the dramatic musical accompaniment. I’ve been to nearly every one over the years, and though I’ve loved some more than others—Chagall (2016-17) and Picasso (2018-19) are faves to date—this one starring Claude Monet was impressive. During one segment, for example, you really feel like you’re on a moving train, watching the landscape whiz by.

Here are some highlights:

As the train pulls into Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris, you can practically feel the steam.

With this winter scene splashed over 40-foot-high walls, the evocative icy chill feels real.

Luckily, Ralph and I made it to the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence before the terrific Paul Cezanne expo ended on 12 October. I should not have waited till the last minute, because I could have been out of luck finding tickets to the massively popular show and missed out on experiencing the unique collection of iconic works by the “Father of Modern Art.” Because Cezanne veered away from capturing fleeting moments as the Impressionists did and concentrated on exploring rule-breaking perspectives of form, structure, and color, he paved the way for 20th-century masters. Both Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse are known to have agreed that Cezanne was the “father of us all.”

Here are some of my favorites:

*The Card Players*, oil on canvas, painted between 1893 and 1896.

*The Women Bathers*, oil on canvas, circa 1895

*Still Life with Apples and Melons*, oil on canvas, ca. 1895

*Still Life with Apples*, oil on canvas,1895-98

*Portrait of the Artist’s Father, reading L’Événement*, oil o canvas,1866

One last note on the Cezanne show. The collection included just one painting of Mont Sainte-Victoire, but it meant a lot to me. After having lived in Aix for 18 months–before moving to Saint-Rémy–we often walked to the plateau where Cezanne set up his easel to paint the multi-faceted mountain. I loved gazing at it, watching the light and shadows dance across its rugged surface, each snapshot offering a different perspective for seeing the world. Because I came to feel connected to it on a certain level, I felt closer to the region, as well. We never hiked the mountain, though, and that’s something I’d like to do one day–another item for the bucket list.

Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you happiness, health, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Black Stork by Frank Vassen, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

On the birding front, the Black Stork gets top billing this month—the impressive bird and its mates are back in Provence for the winter!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is making its way toward the home stretch. The editor plans to send me the manuscript within a week, and then I can begin what hopefully is the final edit. When I’m finished with it (or it’s finished with me) and somehow the project is proclaimed “done,” next stop proofreader. Then the focus will turn to publication prep, and, of course, the cover. It will be similar to Passion for Provence, but distinctive. If you have any ideas, please pass them along!

Hail to Horses and “Taureau” Tradition in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

The Carreto Ramado (stuffed cart in Provençal) leads the traditional summer parade in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Mid-August in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is feria time. Over an extended weekend, the town salutes its equestrian and rural heritage with parades, special apèros, brass bands, and outdoor DJ-directed dance-o-thon evenings called bodégas. And, of course, there are loads of special events featuring horses and bulls that take place in arenas, as well as on the main square and in the streets—with spectators ensconced behind metal barricades.

The traditional costumes of the Arlésiennes date to the 18th century. The “look” includes an intricate hair bun and decorative headdress.

Of the variety of happenings, one event not to miss is the Défilé de la Carreto Ramado, the elaborate parade that includes the fabulous Arlésiennes, dressed in period costumes. An enormous cart decorated with colorful flags, green foliage, highlighted with braids of garlic, sunflowers, and bouquets of lavender, leads a procession of dozens of linked-together draught horses, sporting ornate harnesses festooned with pompoms and ribbons. It’s quite the spectacle! Have a look:

Traditional attire of long-sleeved shirts and vests are de rigueur though temps tip toward 100F.

Young equestrians promote the revered traditions.

Mayor Chérubini enjoying the festivities.

Some female equestrians sit side-saddle, their long gowns flowing over their steeds.

The post-parade party spills into the street.

Wherever you are this summer, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Gorgeous European roller courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci, CCASA 4.0, Wikimedia

The European roller is a summer favorite in these parts. Such a treat to see it fly!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is again with the primary editor, where, most likely, it will remain for a few weeks. When it returns, there will be more work to do—that is a given. When will it be ready for the proofreader? That, mes amis, is a complicated question. In the meantime, the trick is to keep on truckin’, n’est ce pas? And smiling!