history – Gayle Smith Padgett

Playing Tour Guide in Our Patch of Provence

Stunning Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, about 40 minutes from Saint-Rémy.

Showing off our Provençal playground to visitors always promises oohs and ahhs of delight. And that’s just me. Playing tour guide in and around Saint-Rémy gives me the opportunity to see my adopted home from different perspectives, which is gratifying in fresh new ways.

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue shimmers under sunny skies.

But donning my host hat means giving the travelers the best experience. And a key trick to guests getting the biggest kick possible out of the area’s treasures is tailoring the tours to match their preferred interests.

A collection of straw hats as outdoor decor on Place Favier,

Happily, my latest “tourees” were devoted foodies, marketers, and art-and-architecture lovers like me, and also shared my penchant for hiking the hills. So, designing an itinerary was a snap.

We covered a good amount of territory in a few days, aiming for a rich, yet unrushed roster of activities—always staying flexible and keeping tabs on energy levels. After their Lyon to Arles river cruise, my buddies were anxious to get out and about. To that end, we caught up as we ambled around old-town St. Rémy, admiring the pretty squares—particularly Place Favier and Place Pellissier—and pausing at art galleries and boutiques. We strolled up to the sanitarium Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, where Van Gogh stayed (1889-1890)—and painted The Starry Night—and walked across the foothills of the Alpilles, taking in one of the best overviews of the town.

A starter at Le Capoun–*mais oui*, asparagus season is here!

When the weather cooperated, we enjoyed apèros on the terrace and lingered over lunch featuring salades de chèvre chaud. Luckily, the day that Mother Nature decided to throw a “damp” tantrum, we had reservations for a special déjeuner at Le Capoun.

A photograph of Picasso merged with a self-portrait at Carrières des Lumières

Other highlights were Saint-Rémy’s fabulous Wednesday outdoor market and Carrières des Lumières, for the immersive sound-and-light show starring Picasso and the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Excursions to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Aix-en-Provence rounded out the visit.

A vineyard view from the foothills of the Alpilles, above Saint-Rémy

Then came the hard part—saying au revoir to my très chères amies. But we made memories that we’ll treasure…forever.

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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

When May rolls around, so do Rollers—remarkable!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is making its way around the world. I always love to hear how the story resonates with readers, so if you have a favorite part (or parts!), please do let me know. And if you’d like to share your enthusiasm on Amazon or Goodreads, that would be marvelous. Many, many heartfelt thanks in advance for taking the time for that—it means a ton.

Artsy Autumn in Provence

*Mont Sainte-Victoire* (1897, oil on canvas), one of over 35 oils and 45 watercolors of the mountain near Aix-en-Provence that so captivated Cezanne.

Autumn and art, a perfect pairing. When the vines begin to turn rusty gold and deep crimson, marking the end of the summer crowds in our popular Provençal patch, it’s time to put away the parasol and seek some culture.

*Portrait of the Artist with Pink Background* (c.1875, oil on canvas), by Paul Cezanne, “Father of Modern Art.”

This particular change of seasons was my cue to check out a couple of standout events spotlighting two French titans of art history: Monet, Founder of Impressionism (Claude Monet, 1840-1926) at the Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, and Cezanne au Jas de Bouffan, (Paul Cezanne, 1839-1906) at the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

La Fontaine de la Rotunde welcomes visitors to Aix-en-Provence, a city of art and culture.

Carrières des Lumières is a former interior quarry, repurposed as a stunning art venue featuring immersive sound and light art-themed spectacles. Each year, the program showcases different artists, but one aspect remains the same—the wow factor, and not just for the stunning visuals but also the dramatic musical accompaniment. I’ve been to nearly every one over the years, and though I’ve loved some more than others—Chagall (2016-17) and Picasso (2018-19) are faves to date—this one starring Claude Monet was impressive. During one segment, for example, you really feel like you’re on a moving train, watching the landscape whiz by.

Here are some highlights:

As the train pulls into Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris, you can practically feel the steam.

With this winter scene splashed over 40-foot-high walls, the evocative icy chill feels real.

Luckily, Ralph and I made it to the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence before the terrific Paul Cezanne expo ended on 12 October. I should not have waited till the last minute, because I could have been out of luck finding tickets to the massively popular show and missed out on experiencing the unique collection of iconic works by the “Father of Modern Art.” Because Cezanne veered away from capturing fleeting moments as the Impressionists did and concentrated on exploring rule-breaking perspectives of form, structure, and color, he paved the way for 20th-century masters. Both Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse are known to have agreed that Cezanne was the “father of us all.”

Here are some of my favorites:

*The Card Players*, oil on canvas, painted between 1893 and 1896.

*The Women Bathers*, oil on canvas, circa 1895

*Still Life with Apples and Melons*, oil on canvas, ca. 1895

*Still Life with Apples*, oil on canvas,1895-98

*Portrait of the Artist’s Father, reading L’Événement*, oil o canvas,1866

One last note on the Cezanne show. The collection included just one painting of Mont Sainte-Victoire, but it meant a lot to me. After having lived in Aix for 18 months–before moving to Saint-Rémy–we often walked to the plateau where Cezanne set up his easel to paint the multi-faceted mountain. I loved gazing at it, watching the light and shadows dance across its rugged surface, each snapshot offering a different perspective for seeing the world. Because I came to feel connected to it on a certain level, I felt closer to the region, as well. We never hiked the mountain, though, and that’s something I’d like to do one day–another item for the bucket list.

Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you happiness, health, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Black Stork by Frank Vassen, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

On the birding front, the Black Stork gets top billing this month—the impressive bird and its mates are back in Provence for the winter!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is making its way toward the home stretch. The editor plans to send me the manuscript within a week, and then I can begin what hopefully is the final edit. When I’m finished with it (or it’s finished with me) and somehow the project is proclaimed “done,” next stop proofreader. Then the focus will turn to publication prep, and, of course, the cover. It will be similar to Passion for Provence, but distinctive. If you have any ideas, please pass them along!

Hail to Horses and “Taureau” Tradition in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

The Carreto Ramado (stuffed cart in Provençal) leads the traditional summer parade in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Mid-August in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is feria time. Over an extended weekend, the town salutes its equestrian and rural heritage with parades, special apèros, brass bands, and outdoor DJ-directed dance-o-thon evenings called bodégas. And, of course, there are loads of special events featuring horses and bulls that take place in arenas, as well as on the main square and in the streets—with spectators ensconced behind metal barricades.

The traditional costumes of the Arlésiennes date to the 18th century. The “look” includes an intricate hair bun and decorative headdress.

Of the variety of happenings, one event not to miss is the Défilé de la Carreto Ramado, the elaborate parade that includes the fabulous Arlésiennes, dressed in period costumes. An enormous cart decorated with colorful flags, green foliage, highlighted with braids of garlic, sunflowers, and bouquets of lavender, leads a procession of dozens of linked-together draught horses, sporting ornate harnesses festooned with pompoms and ribbons. It’s quite the spectacle! Have a look:

Traditional attire of long-sleeved shirts and vests are de rigueur though temps tip toward 100F.

Young equestrians promote the revered traditions.

Mayor Chérubini enjoying the festivities.

Some female equestrians sit side-saddle, their long gowns flowing over their steeds.

The post-parade party spills into the street.

Wherever you are this summer, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.

Bises, Gayle

Gorgeous European roller courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci, CCASA 4.0, Wikimedia

The European roller is a summer favorite in these parts. Such a treat to see it fly!

PPS

Pleasures of Provence is again with the primary editor, where, most likely, it will remain for a few weeks. When it returns, there will be more work to do—that is a given. When will it be ready for the proofreader? That, mes amis, is a complicated question. In the meantime, the trick is to keep on truckin’, n’est ce pas? And smiling!