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Summer in Saint-Rémy means luxuriously warm temps, bright blue skies, and heady lavender-scents. Everybody and his frère are out and about, taking full advantage of this seductively sensuous time of year. How many ways to feel the breeze? Let me count the ways.

Up, up and away. You won’t be seeing me up there anytime soon, but I bet the view is terrific and air cool.

Forget the postal truck–the electric bike is loads more fun.

But, he really wants one of these babies.

For this happy gal, horse power is the way to go. Nothing like a slow, clippity-clop down La Ancienne Voie Aurelia at the base of Les Alpilles to kick off the day.

For a bit of shopping in town, this scooter-with-a-basket fits the bill. Parking is not a problem.

Don’t underestimate his old-timer–it has 2-60 air conditioning. Just roll down two windows and rev up to 60 mph–out in the country, preferably.

Or do the same in Mint Green Truck’s flashy cousin. For extra excitement, maybe hitch a ride in the flatbed?

This guy’s got flash and judging by all that lycra, lots of dash too.

Golf cart? Go-cart? Whatever it is, what a cute little pipsqueak it is!

And here’s another pipsqueak–a very clever one. Who says you need a vehicle to get around town?

September is here and summer is winding down. But while the luscious weather has lasted, it’s been delightful observing the variety of clever and colorful means of getting ’round town. And just going ’round.

Up and over the craggy notch of the Alpilles mountains, down through vineyards and tiny villages, plus a few roundabouts and voilà, you’ve arrived!  Not at a cram-packed beach. Not at a bustling city center. Nope. You’re in a quiet oasis of calm, away from the maddening crowds, surrounded by bubbling fountains and cascading petunias—at a shopping mall!

This isn’t a run of the mill, scruffy retail therapy center. Mais non. The new McArthurGlen outlet mall in Miramas—45 minutes from St. Rémy—is a sparkling (albeit faux) French village of pastel “houses,” flower-filled window boxes, open squares with umbrella-shaded benches, not to mention a bistro on every block, and spacious, sparkling toilets on every corner.

While walking from boutique to boutique, you’re treated to these vibrant geraniums, which brighten up a hot summer afternoon on “main street.”

Though chances are you won’t see any “villagers” in traditional dress, you can find boutiques offering luscious, locally produced olive oil.

And there’s not just shopping here. Art appreciation is also on offer, this sculpture of a noble steed, a case in point. Around the corner, a Rodin exposition was in progress, as well.

And when your credit card and feet need a break, this inviting table awaits.

Here, in a shopping mall of all places, in the middle of summer, in the middle of Provence, you can find peace–and perhaps a special treasure at an “interesting” price. Who knew!

There’s nothing half-way about mid-August in St. Rémy. It’s the highest of high season, and the town pulls out all the stops. Tons of tourists come to town, and judging by the sturdy metal barriers positioned along the ring road, bulls are not far behind. In this cowboy-centric region of Provence, horses and bulls often take center stage. This weekend is no exception. From Friday night through Tuesday night, bulls blast around the municipal arena and also run freely in the streets—escorted on both sides by mounted horses—kids ride ponies on a parking-lot-turned-dude-ranch, flowered carts carrying beaming beauties in authentic traditional dress circle the historic center, rousing band tunes fill the air, and grilled meat dinners are on offer. Of course, rafraîchissemnts, refreshments, are available par tout. And, to culminate the vibrant summer festival, a concert featuring an impersonator of the French idol, Johnny Hallyday–it promises a spectacle that is “100% Johnny!” But first, some local musicians…

The toe-tappin’ band sets the festive tone. The crowds begin to congregate for the bull event. Some spectators have already snagged the best seats atop bales of hay.

Bulls? Where are the bulls? Someone said there would be bulls!

 

OK, we’ve got horses now. We’re getting somewhere.

All ready to go. But where are those bulls?

Patience. A young rider epitomizes the calm before the storming of the streets.

Oh, there they are. Bulls buck in the truck. The mounted steeds position themselves to escort the pair of bulls through the streets. When the warning shot is fired, the guy on top of the truck, will release the doors.

And away they go! But not too far. Just half way around the ring road to another truck where they’ll be ushered up the ramp; after a short rest period, they’ll reverse course. A few round-trips later, they’ll be whisked back to the ranch–where, I’m sure, delicious feedbags await, an apt reward for the stars of one of St. Remy’s treasured traditional festivals.

 

 

 

It’s a warm, lazy Sunday. Today, an easy stroll fits the “fitness” bill. With St. Remy behind us, we meander down a country lane towards Chateau Roussan. En route, we observe several members of the animal kingdom are unaware it’s a day of rest.

First, there’s the mellow zebra cow surveying its wooded domain.

Then, a young stallion, rarin’ to go. Let’s not be late for the rodeo!

A busy bee gathers nectar with frenzied speed.

A carved cicada door-knocker awaits the Sunday lunch visitors.

A gecko explores its surroundings–possibly looking for a way inside? Last night, its very real cousin was successful at doing just that chez nous. It took a netted pool skimmer and a broom to convince it it would be much happier spending the night in the cool outdoors. And, we were much happier it finally took the not-so-subtle hint.

 

A colorful carousel stands still the morning after what looks to have been a very festive night before at Chateau Roussan.

And back home in Clos Mozart, forty minutes later. And now for a much needed siesta, known in these parts as a “sieste.”

 

 

 

Marseille’s Orange Velodrome was the site of the final time trial for the Tour de France 2017.

Inside Marseille’s massive velodrome, which holds over 67,000 fans…

An early competitor rounding the first bend just outside the velodrome…

View from an upper deck of the velodrome over Marseille’s highrises, dwarfed by sun-baked peaks…

A trio of happy worker bees, appropriately outfitted in orange and black.

Hope they’re wearing sunscreen!

King of the Mountain fans sporting their support.

Chris Froome hydrates before blazing out of the velodrome. He came in third in the last time trial but claimed victory overall.

Lucky lions enjoy the cool spray of the Rotonde fountain on a sizzling August day…

The clock tower stands guard over the Hotel de Ville square.

The beautifully restored Caumont Art Center features a gorgeous wrought iron staircase.

 

Tempura shrimp  make for a delightful starter to a summer lunch.

Summer love at first bite: Coconut-ginger sauce, topped with coral lentils and cod filets, garnished with vibrant cumquats and spring onions.

 

 

View over St. Remy…before le bon vin, a walk in the hills…

The distinctively notched Les Alpilles, hazy in the summer sun…view from La Petit Crau.

Yummy goodies to pair with the wine…

 

Beginning with bubbly…

And some rose to go…

 

Les Enfants at Sailing Camp on the Med at Carry le Rouet

 

Friday, 7 July 2017

 

The back road from St. Rémy to the glider field near Eygalières winds past pastures of horses and cows, huge expanses of olive groves and, of course, vineyards. On our bikes, it takes just around a half hour, but when it’s supposed to nudge 100 F, an early and short workout seemed prudent. Sometimes we see a bright blue roller surveying a field just west of the turn-off to the St. Rémy aero-club but not today. Though the red windsock on the pole planted on a stony outcropping by the edge of the field barely furled, one glider was able take off. Though we needed to beat the heat, we paused for a few minutes to watch the plane float effortlessly over Les Alpilles. Bet it was nice and cool up there.