The Carreto Ramado (stuffed cart in Provençal) leads the traditional summer parade in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
Mid-August in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is feria time. Over an extended weekend, the town salutes its equestrian and rural heritage with parades, special apèros, brass bands, and outdoor DJ-directed dance-o-thon evenings called bodégas. And, of course, there are loads of special events featuring horses and bulls that take place in arenas, as well as on the main square and in the streets—with spectators ensconced behind metal barricades.
The traditional costumes of the Arlésiennes date to the 18th century. The “look” includes an intricate hair bun and decorative headdress.
Of the variety of happenings, one event not to miss is the Défilé de la Carreto Ramado, the elaborate parade that includes the fabulous Arlésiennes, dressed in period costumes. An enormous cart decorated with colorful flags, green foliage, highlighted with braids of garlic, sunflowers, and bouquets of lavender, leads a procession of dozens of linked-together draught horses, sporting ornate harnesses festooned with pompoms and ribbons. It’s quite the spectacle! Have a look:
Traditional attire of long-sleeved shirts and vests are de rigueur though temps tip toward 100F.Little girls sporting straw bonnets walk with purpose.Young equestrians promote the revered traditions.Sitting tall and proud in the saddle.Atop a horse-drawn carriage, a couple makes the rounds in comfort.Mayor Chérubini enjoying the festivities.Some female equestrians sit side-saddle, their long gowns flowing over their steeds.The post-parade party spills into the street.
Wherever you are this summer, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Gorgeous European roller courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci, CCASA 4.0, Wikimedia
PS
The European roller is a summer favorite in these parts. Such a treat to see it fly!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence is again with the primary editor, where, most likely, it will remain for a few weeks. When it returns, there will be more work to do—that is a given. When will it be ready for the proofreader? That, mes amis, is a complicated question. In the meantime, the trick is to keep on truckin’, n’est ce pas? And smiling!
The imposing Palais des Papes in Avignon under a cerulean blue winter sky.
First of all…
Bonne Année 2025 & Meilleurs Voeux à Tous!
Happy New Year & Best Wishes to all!
***
A banner at Avignon’s City Hall wishes all a lovely and happy New Year 2025.
Provence in winter usually means a crisp chill in the air but more often than not, sunshine reigns.
Avignon’s impressive main theater on Place de L’Horloge.
So when duty recently called Ralph and me to Avignon—about a half an hour north of Saint-Rémy—we took advantage of the opportunity to explore. Instead of racing in and out of the Papal City, we took care of business and stayed for lunch, roaming around the architecturally striking city in between. And all under a stunningly blue sky but sans the crush of the summer crowds who flood in for the famous performing arts fête, the Festival d’Avignon.
What a treat it was to stand practically by ourselves on Place du Palais and marvel at the impressive 14th century papal palace, the Palais des Papes, home to seven popes between 1309 and 1377. Flanking the palace, the imposing Cathédral-Notre-Dame-des-Doms d’Avignon glistened in the morning sun.
On the pretty main square, Place de L’Horloge, the sunbeams danced off the elaborate Grand Opera which will have its 200th birthday in October. Just a few meters away the stately Hôtel de Ville held court with the tricolor flag taking center stage, waving in the breeze.
The historic Chapellerie Mouret has been in business since 1860!Fresh and fragrant blooms brighten the day every day.
Along rue des Marchands, we strolled past countless adorable boutiques selling clothes, confections, berets, and blossoms, plus a variety of products made from local lavender and olives.
Patrons of Café Saint-Jean soak up the morning sunshine.
On Place Pie, we joined a dozen other sun worshipers on the terrace of Café Saint Jean for a café noisette, an espresso with a dollop of hot foamy milk. Afterward, we cruised the aisles of the historic indoor market called Les Halles, admiring the bounty of fruits, vegetables, pastries, seafood, meat, fromages, and spices—pretty much everything needed to compose a wonderful meal.
Avignon’s indoor market, Les Halles, is a gourmand’s paradise.Find your favorite fromage at the creamery, La Maison du Fromage.Much more than crusty baguettes at this bakery stand.Meat lovers are sure to find their favorite cut here.Here’s the place for fish fanciers.Olives all sorts of waysBeautiful produce piled highSweet tooth, anyone?Salt with fig? Pourquoi pas!
And a wonderful meal is exactly what’s found at Cuisine Centr’Halles, talented American Chef Jonathan Chiri’s restaurant. This charismatic Californian native earned his refined cuisine stripes at top restaurants around the world, to include the Michelin-starred restaurant at the 5-starred luxury hotel La Mirande right around the corner in Avignon. (He also taught at their cooking school.) For lucky guests at his restaurant tucked into Les Halles, he prepares fresh, inventive, scrumptious lunches in an open-plan arrangement.
The restaurant Cuisine Centr’HallesChef Jonathan Chiri at workDelicious stuffed veggies with polenta Sumptuous turkey roulade with charred veggies and polenta
The day we were there, while we waited for our starter, he kindly offered us a yummy chickpea dip punctuated with lemon confit, which gave it a delightful punch. Afterward, we enjoyed the bubbling hot, crunchy-topped appetizer of a goat cheese melange made with loads of garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs—fabulous! Ralph chose the extraordinarily delicious stuffed veggies—he offered a bite!—and I devoured a moist, herby turkey roulade in a rich reduction sauce, served with a colorful array of charred vegetables and a ramekin of a creamy polenta.
Throughout the meal, we’d been sipping a delightful recommendation by Nienke, the engaging sommelier and server. After inquiring about our tastes, she’d poured a dry white wine from Domaine de Laballe called Sables Fauves. We thoroughly enjoyed it and relayed that message to Niente and Chef Chiri who noted it comes from the Landes department, south of Bordeaux.
Chef Chiri and Nienke, with moi in the middle
It’s a wine region we haven’t explored much. But we sure will now—a happy addition for the New Year’s to-do list.
All the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful 2025.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Pleasures of Provence is moving forward. Restructuring some chapters and revising the ending is taking some time but no way ‘round it to get to the place I think it needs to be. It feels like I’m on the right track, but there’s a ways to go. Pas à pas as they say here—step by step.
PPS
When a VERY RARE bird alert came through for the Lesser Flamingo, Ralph and I twitched! On 29 December we hustled to the Camargue and saw the coral-pink wonder–it’s the one in the back. The singular bird pranced among no fewer than 1,800 pale pink Greater Flamingos. Sorry to say, I forgot my camera so this is the best I could do with my phone that we placed on the spotting scope. It was a thrill to watch it preen, splash, and even take a nap!
Gayle Smith Padgett 