Surf’s up in Saint-Jean-de-Luz—and not just at the beach.
This seafaring city near the Spanish border is awash with a vibrant let’s-go-and-do energy. No matter whether you’re atop a board, catching a wave on La Grande Plage or perched on a bistro stool, people-watching in Place Louis XIV, a distinct dynamism is sure to engulf you.
This buzzy vibe may be due in no small part to the area’s unique cultural mix, and specifically to its bilingual context. The Basque cultural region may have fuzzy demarcations, stretching from Spain’s northeastern corner across into southwestern France, but its distinctive language—with no known linguistic relatives—is clearly marked pretty much everywhere. From traffic signs to restaurant menus, both French and Basque languages are on display. This integral part of the fabric of life here lends the area a formidable layer of substance, along with an exotic, spirited dimension.
That spunky vitality is most obvious at the shore. The natural setting is so jaw-droppingly gorgeous, your first instinct may be to jump up and down and clap your hands like a little kid, just before scooting down to the sand to dig your toes in—as well you should. Stretching for about a kilometer, the wide beach invites all types of merrymakers. There’s plenty of room to throw Frisbees, build sandcastles, or walk laps barefoot through the ripples. You can also loop around along the wide elevated promenade, where you’ll share the space with baby buggies and selfie-snapping tourists.
Either route you take, in this zeal-filled town, you’ll be treated to endless scenes of people on the move, jogging, hiking, cycling, and engaged in all manner of water sports, including waist-deep water walking—called longe-côte. Whatever the endeavor, all parties are privileged to soak up the superlative views of the crescent bay, hugged by emerald mountains and, along the promenade, distinctive Basque architecture.
And after the thrill of experiencing all the energy—as a participant or a mere observer—nourishment is de rigueur. And what a stellar array of options there are in this foodie town. If a picnic is in order, head to the covered market, Les Halles, for supplies, or if it’s Tuesday or Friday, stock up at the bustling outdoor stalls encircling Les Halles.
For a more formal meal, choose from one of the countless bistros and gourmet restaurants in town or along the coast for dazzling views. The meal that sent us over the moon was at Chez Mattin, located in a residential area in Ciboure, across La Nivelle River, on the south side of the port.
I’d made a lunch reservation online at the historic, family-run establishment—in business since the 1970s—but upon arrival, Madame Niquet found no record of it. And, there were no unclaimed tables—the place was packed. (I found out later my reservation hadn’t actually been confirmed.) But when the proactive owner learned it was our anniversary, she took no time hustling up a temporary table, placing it by the bar, close to the hustle-bustle, which added to the festive mood.
A rich soupe de poisson amuse-bouche served in a shot glass preceded our entrée of sardines, prepared two ways—grilled and pan-fried. Both were extraordinary in their simplicity, as were our main dishes. No fussy flower petals precisely positioned with tweezers here. Our whitefish dishes were unbelievably fresh, surrounded by an array of colorful seasonal veggies, resting in either a spiced-just-right celeriac emulsion or a velvety bouillabaisse sauce. These dishes offered a satisfying depth of flavor that pushed our savor sensors into high gear. We lingered as long as we could, enjoying the convivial ambiance, until the last sip of our wine. Thankfully, our bike ride home was downhill, so we cruised carefree and chuffed, feeling like we’d hit a culinary jackpot, a fitting way to celebrate our special day.
The week went by in a flash, filled with hiking up to the Pointe Sainte-Barbe and over to the Plage d’Erromardie, making a birding excursion to the Réserve Naturelle Nationale du Marais d’Orx, the nature park north of Biarritz, St. Jean de Luz’s glitzy neighbor, cycling on our foldables all over town, and meandering through the network of pedestrian streets, checking out the boutiques. (I loved Bayona for artisanal espadrilles and Maison Jean-Vier for authentic stripes-centric Basque textiles. The historic company also has a large concept store with furniture close to Guéthary).
And, of course, we made the most of the gigantic pool at the inviting enclave of Park Victoria, where we were staying. Though the grounds were lush and our apartment stylishly design-forward, a sea view remained out of sight. Mesmerizing by day and night, that undulating vista called to us relentlessly throughout our stay, which just has to mean that we will be back.
And on that happy occasion, I’ll ensure our digs come with a vue mer, and I’ll schedule our visit better, allowing us to be on site by Sunday morning. This trip, that was the only time period we weren’t in St. Jean, so I missed a fave activity—roaming the outdoor market in Ciboure, with vendors selling non-food items like textiles, ceramics, and baskets.
Despite my flawed planning regarding the restaurant booking and market miss, we reveled in our St. Jean sojourn, and it ended on a super festive note. The night before our departure, we received a great send-off, marked by the Festival Andalou (Andalusian Festival), a salute to southern Spain. The multi-day event featured colorful flamenco dancers, concerts, and plenty of paella, tapas, and ice-cold cerveza. Olé!
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Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises,
Gayle
PS
The bird of the month for June is the normally shy Little Bittern that paid Ralph a rare visit the other day at l’Étang des Aulne, about a 40-minute drive from Saint-Rémy.
PPS
Book News
Happily, my first book, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie, is enjoying a bit of attention lately. So in a few days, it will be part of a Kindle Countdown promotion on Amazon. On 15 June, the cost will be 99 cents and then increase by about a dollar daily until it reaches its regular price of $5.99. If you (or a Francophile friend) prefer to read on Kindle and haven’t read it yet, this would be a fine time! Passion for Provence on Amazon.com
As for Pleasures of Provence, it is making its way around the world in unexpected ways. Devoted fans from the South Pacific have arranged for an inscribed copy to be shepherded across the seas by special envoy, taking several weeks, including a stopover at a South American embassy. What other gratifying surprise might be in store—a call from Oprah? Well, while we’re dreaming, might as well go big, n’est-ce pas?😊 Pleasures of Provence on Amazon.com
Gayle Smith Padgett 