Skipping out of town to the coast just as summer’s heat was poised to pounce had us humming a happy tune…all the way to Gruissan. Where, you’re wondering, is this Gruissan? Perhaps the getaway destination is nestled in the upscale Côte d’Azur? Near glitzy Saint-Tropez? Maybe by swanky Monaco? Or fashionable Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat? Nope, not a mega yacht, Lamborghini, nor Hermès bag paraded around this authentic fishing village, down Spain’s way. As temperatures soared back home in Saint-Rémy, in this unassuming seaside enclave, we chilled.
Which is not to say we exclusively navel-gazed all week. Au contraire. To celebrate Ralph’s birthday month, we made the rounds by bike, foot, and auto but sans rushing or traveling far afield.
Here are some highlights:
Working fishing boats docked in GruissanOutside of town, by the Cabannes des PêcheursHow to fillet a fish? Brigitte, from the enterprise Calegari, offers a tutorial.Apricots bursting with flavor at Gruissan’s market.Forget fromage. In Gruissan, say salt–any way you like it!Saucissons make for a perfect pique-nique.Narbonne’s Norman Foster-designed Roman antiquities museum, Narbo ViaBarges cruise Narbonne’s Canal de Robine, part of the Canal du Midi.Narbonne’s fabulous covered indoor market, Les HallesView from the terrace at La Perle Guissanaise.At La Perle Guissanaise, you chose your catch–barely off the boatFun and festive dining at La Perle GuissanaiseNewly opened Le Grand Castélou nature park offers three circuits–all flat–with two observatiores.Where to plop on the vast beach at Plage des Chalets?Asparagus panna cotta at Deux Oliviers, GruissanDeux Olivier’s grilled squid in spicy “soup”Exclusive digs, Château Capitoul, between Gruissan and NarbonneInfinite view from the infinity pool, Château CapitoulHappily, non-residents are welcome at Château Capitoul’s serene spa.Wine shop at Château Capitoul offers wines from various domaines.Refined elegance reigns at Château CapitoulCheering life in the slow lane on the terrace of Château Capitoul.
Wherever you are, dear readers, here’s to health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
When the primary editor returns my manuscript of Pleasures of Provence (working title) at the end of the month, surely revisions will need to be made. In the meantime, I’m resting up, knowing full well I’ll need to gear up when the time comes.
PPS
The striking Woodchat Shrike posed for Ralph near Gruissan’s salt pans. (Photo by Irvin Calicut, Wikimedia.)
Cue sunbeams, blue sky, and a balmy breeze. Add an April Sunday afternoon in brasserie-rich Saint-Rémy, and bingo, a robust café culture springs to life.
Strolling by restaurant terrace after restaurant terrace, filled with families and friends of all ages, enjoying leisurely time together over a delicious meal, soothed my soul and put a smile on my face. Every scene revealed a vibrant slice of la belle vie that captured our hearts so many years ago, with the allure only growing stronger with each passing season.
And for this, I am extraordinarily grateful, especially after an extended stay in Southern California, concluding with the inevitable, sorrowful farewells to family and friends. I miss them every day, yet every day, la belle France reminds me that this is home-sweet-home. It’s the place where, for Ralph and me, joie de vivre (j-d-v) moments flourish best, making for a layered life bursting with simple pleasures.
Come take a Sunday stroll with me in picturesque Saint-Rémy, where j-d-v thrives:
Dine by the City Hall on Place PlessierPlace Favier offers several dining options.Cafe La Place is the place for Asian fusion.Le Goustarou serves street-side.A refreshing, sweet treat, anyone?Walk right up to Le Beau Bar
Enjoy your joie de vivre moments, wherever you are. However many you experience, there’s always room for more, n’est ce pas?
**
Here’s to health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Spunky roadrunners are everywhere in Palm Springs.
PS
Not only do I miss loved ones in the US, but also some members of the Southern California animal kingdom–like roadrunners, hummingbirds, and the Vermillion Flycatcher.
PPS
Pleasures of Provence update: After tweaking the manuscript a tad more, it will be time to move forward. How great it would be to find a new literary agent (or publisher), preferably a certified Francophile, who represents authors of upbeat narrative non-fiction. If you have suggestions, please do not hesitate to share! And share away with this summary of the story, which, most likely, will assume a new title as it nears publication:
***
Americans Ralph and Gayle, who have happily lived in Provence for a decade, unwittingly risk losing their right to live in their adopted country. The scare shocks Gayle into heartfelt soul-searching about the cherished life they’d put on the line. What makes this French life, anyway? Why does it mean so much? And most importantly, how does it blossom—by pure magic?
Though much of the attraction may remain mysterious, Gayle is confident that notable, knowable elements of the allure do exist. Identifying them and how they evolve, she theorizes, is crucial to protecting and preserving their belle vie.
How to begin the search for an unknown, a veritable je-ne-sais-quoi quest? At Ralph’s suggestion, Gayle recounts a dozen of their French adventures, near and far-flung, culinary and cultural, urban, rural, and wild—in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Nîmes, Brittany’s Île d’Ouessant, Mediterranean villages, Paris, the Alps, Corsica, and elsewhere—hoping the answers will surface.
One day, without fanfare, they slip into the spotlight. The trio of Pleasure Principles reveals the essential skills for embracing life-affirming joie de vivre. Mastering them means endless (and often delicious) delight, yielding benefits galore, including a better belle vie in France…and beyond.
From the terrace of the Indian Canyon Golf Course restaurant–excellent views and quesadillas!
Hummingbirds and roadrunners are year-round residents in my desert oasis hometown, Palm Springs, California. These adaptable creatures are designed to cope with the scorching triple digit temperatures common in summer. Despite the heat, they follow their daily routines below the towering San Jacinto mountains, where thousands of palm fronds sway under azure skies.
This artist captures the desert landscape: palms to peaksFrank Sinatra’s former home, Twin Palms
During winter months, however, with average temperatures in the 70s, the luxurious embrace of sunshine attracts flocks of snowbirds migrating from northern climes like the American White Pelican and Canadians. The former (feathered) group passes carefree hours floating on golf course ponds.
Weekend vintage marketStarbucks by nightThe Thursday Street Fair on Palm Canyon DriveThe Palm Springs Art MuseumDesigned by E. Stewart Williams, the museum conforms to the mountainBuilt Landscape 1, by Australian artist Paul Davies (2015)Jazzy vintage gowns with tiny price tags at Angel View Thrift ShopUpscale vintage wares at Market MarketForever Marilyn is a tourist hit–she stands tall near the museum.
The latter party of heat seekers, on the other hand, engage in a wide variety of fun-in-the-sun activities. They’ll swing golf clubs or tennis racquets, bike-ride, hike, birdwatch, lounge by the pool, take tours of Hollywood stars’ homes, admire mid-century modern architecture, enjoy authentic Mexican cuisine, sip lip-smackingly tangy Margaritas on shaded terraces, cruise museums and stroll main street, Palm Canyon Drive, popping into quirky shops.
The impressive foyer of the Agua Caliente Cultural MuseumThe sleek and swanky Thompson HotelEye-popping art in the Thompson Hotel lobby
Since we haven’t visited for two years, I knew to expect changes—especially after reading an impressively info-packed article in the international edition of the New York Times, 36 Hours in Palm Springs (by Freda Moon, 11-12 January 2025.) Two of the downtown stand-outs are the long-awaited Agua Caliente Cultural Museum—with a fancy spa next door! And, after years of languishing in a distressing, semi-built phase, a large ugly duckling structure morphed into the chic Thompson Hotel.
Mountain views behind Crudo CervicheriaDelicious fish taco-take-out from Baja Springs Market
Visting all the delightful cafes and restaurants that have recently opened presents a challenge but a gratifying one. Topping my list are the casual, deli-style La Jefa (with an inviting patio for sipping a morning espresso) and the seafood-centric Crudo Cervichería, which also has a terrace but with stunning mountain views. And a fire pit!
David Hockney comes to the PS Art MuseumHockney’s photographic drawing In the Studio, Dec. 2017 (partial view)Mexican artist Francisco Zuñiga’s untitled work (1972)
Continuum Basket, by Cahuilla Gerald Clarke (2018); crushed aluminum cans on a satellite dishThe Albert Frey-designed house, next to the PS Art Museum
Reacquainting myself with the fabulous Palm Springs Art Museum—free Thursday from 5 PM—is a must. A David Hockney expo is the big draw now, and just next door stands the Luminaire House, designed by the renown architect Albert Frey. Time permitting, I hope to tour the interior, but in the meantime, I found it intruiging to observe the subtle shimmers of the metal structure at dusk.
Outdoor mural by artist Peter Tigler with public collaboration (2019)
As does the temperature with summer on the horizon. Come April, snowbirds—both feathered and Canadian—will head north and the locals will have the place to themselves to hunker down and hydrate. And double-down on the sunscreen.
**
Wherever you are, dear readers, be happy, healthy, and hopeful.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Watching lively roadrunners scurry about is always a delight.
PPS
Comments on Pleasures of Provence by the literary professional have arrived! Mais oui, revisions are in order, but now I proceed with increased clarity and confidence, and for that I am over-the-moon grateful.
The imposing Palais des Papes in Avignon under a cerulean blue winter sky.
First of all…
Bonne Année 2025 & Meilleurs Voeux à Tous!
Happy New Year & Best Wishes to all!
***
A banner at Avignon’s City Hall wishes all a lovely and happy New Year 2025.
Provence in winter usually means a crisp chill in the air but more often than not, sunshine reigns.
Avignon’s impressive main theater on Place de L’Horloge.
So when duty recently called Ralph and me to Avignon—about a half an hour north of Saint-Rémy—we took advantage of the opportunity to explore. Instead of racing in and out of the Papal City, we took care of business and stayed for lunch, roaming around the architecturally striking city in between. And all under a stunningly blue sky but sans the crush of the summer crowds who flood in for the famous performing arts fête, the Festival d’Avignon.
What a treat it was to stand practically by ourselves on Place du Palais and marvel at the impressive 14th century papal palace, the Palais des Papes, home to seven popes between 1309 and 1377. Flanking the palace, the imposing Cathédral-Notre-Dame-des-Doms d’Avignon glistened in the morning sun.
On the pretty main square, Place de L’Horloge, the sunbeams danced off the elaborate Grand Opera which will have its 200th birthday in October. Just a few meters away the stately Hôtel de Ville held court with the tricolor flag taking center stage, waving in the breeze.
The historic Chapellerie Mouret has been in business since 1860!Fresh and fragrant blooms brighten the day every day.
Along rue des Marchands, we strolled past countless adorable boutiques selling clothes, confections, berets, and blossoms, plus a variety of products made from local lavender and olives.
Patrons of Café Saint-Jean soak up the morning sunshine.
On Place Pie, we joined a dozen other sun worshipers on the terrace of Café Saint Jean for a café noisette, an espresso with a dollop of hot foamy milk. Afterward, we cruised the aisles of the historic indoor market called Les Halles, admiring the bounty of fruits, vegetables, pastries, seafood, meat, fromages, and spices—pretty much everything needed to compose a wonderful meal.
Avignon’s indoor market, Les Halles, is a gourmand’s paradise.Find your favorite fromage at the creamery, La Maison du Fromage.Much more than crusty baguettes at this bakery stand.Meat lovers are sure to find their favorite cut here.Here’s the place for fish fanciers.Olives all sorts of waysBeautiful produce piled highSweet tooth, anyone?Salt with fig? Pourquoi pas!
And a wonderful meal is exactly what’s found at Cuisine Centr’Halles, talented American Chef Jonathan Chiri’s restaurant. This charismatic Californian native earned his refined cuisine stripes at top restaurants around the world, to include the Michelin-starred restaurant at the 5-starred luxury hotel La Mirande right around the corner in Avignon. (He also taught at their cooking school.) For lucky guests at his restaurant tucked into Les Halles, he prepares fresh, inventive, scrumptious lunches in an open-plan arrangement.
The restaurant Cuisine Centr’HallesChef Jonathan Chiri at workDelicious stuffed veggies with polenta Sumptuous turkey roulade with charred veggies and polenta
The day we were there, while we waited for our starter, he kindly offered us a yummy chickpea dip punctuated with lemon confit, which gave it a delightful punch. Afterward, we enjoyed the bubbling hot, crunchy-topped appetizer of a goat cheese melange made with loads of garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs—fabulous! Ralph chose the extraordinarily delicious stuffed veggies—he offered a bite!—and I devoured a moist, herby turkey roulade in a rich reduction sauce, served with a colorful array of charred vegetables and a ramekin of a creamy polenta.
Throughout the meal, we’d been sipping a delightful recommendation by Nienke, the engaging sommelier and server. After inquiring about our tastes, she’d poured a dry white wine from Domaine de Laballe called Sables Fauves. We thoroughly enjoyed it and relayed that message to Niente and Chef Chiri who noted it comes from the Landes department, south of Bordeaux.
Chef Chiri and Nienke, with moi in the middle
It’s a wine region we haven’t explored much. But we sure will now—a happy addition for the New Year’s to-do list.
All the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful 2025.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Pleasures of Provence is moving forward. Restructuring some chapters and revising the ending is taking some time but no way ‘round it to get to the place I think it needs to be. It feels like I’m on the right track, but there’s a ways to go. Pas à pas as they say here—step by step.
PPS
When a VERY RARE bird alert came through for the Lesser Flamingo, Ralph and I twitched! On 29 December we hustled to the Camargue and saw the coral-pink wonder–it’s the one in the back. The singular bird pranced among no fewer than 1,800 pale pink Greater Flamingos. Sorry to say, I forgot my camera so this is the best I could do with my phone that we placed on the spotting scope. It was a thrill to watch it preen, splash, and even take a nap!
Saint-Rémy’s Église Saint-Martin may be closed for renovation, but its golden glowing exterior attracts many admirers.
From Saint-Rémy-de-Provence…
Happy Holidays
and a
Healthy, Happy and Hopeful 2025!
The terrace of restaurant Pieds dans L’Eau shimmers in soft pink light.Cafe La Place shows off its holiday finery.On the ring road side, Pieds dans L’Eau wows with bold crimson.
Dear Readers,
As this challenging year comes to a close and we reboot our energy and reset our focus with optimism for the New Year, please know, from the bottom of my heart, how much I appreciate your continued support of my blog, Falling for France.
A gift shop on Place Pelissier goes all out.Leafless plane trees reveal the stately Hôtel de Ville on Place Pelissier.A sentry guards the Beau Bar this festive season.
It began in 2017, in anticipation of the publication of my first book, Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie and has continued, alongside book number two, The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie (2021).
Reindeer prances atop a shoe shop on Place PelissierAn art gallery in the historic district.Fun toy shop
In essence, these books, plus the next one, Pleasures of Provence (working title) are about finding joy—and not just in France but wherever life finds you. Because, whether your adventures be far-flung or the everyday type, they all hold promise of uplifting wonder—a concept to celebrate, n’est ce pas?
Wishing you all, all the very best.
Bises,
Gayle
A festive penguin greets customers at a brasserie in St. Remy.A mallard rehearsing–perhaps for a holiday sing-along?
PS
Bringing Pleasures of Provence to the light of day will take as long as it takes—aka longer than one would hope and then some. However, the process is progressing…and in a forward manner, to boot:) Recently, I managed to stop tinkering and separate myself from a full (but very imperfect) draft and deliver it to the capable hands of trusted advisors who have shared their thoughtful comments. So here I am, in the thick of daunting editing, pushing ahead step by step. If you can spare wishes for perseverance, please send them this way!
A stork sailing over the fields near the Abbaye de Valmagne, by the village of Villeveyrac last week.
PPS
For those of you flying off to visit loved ones this holiday season, wishing you smooth sailing.
A Grey Heron saunters by a flamingo flock at the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau in the Camargue.
Watching with wonder works wonders on boosting spirits, especially when the star of the show is my favorite bird, the Greater Flamingo. I love watching these captivating creatures do what they do—prance and preen, forage and fly, squawk and even snooze. While they catch some Zzzzzs, they balance on one spindly leg for an incredibly long time—and that’s with their eyes closed!
Surprisingly, this White Stork finds a big pond all to itself.
As happens in life, spirits can sometimes spiral downward. When that occurred the other day, Ralph and I headed to the Parc Ornithologique de Pont du Gau in the Camargue—about an hour from St. Rémy—to visit “my” special feathered friends. In this vast, wild nature reserve, dotted with large ponds, there are loads of flamingos that you can see very close up. It was incredibly calming. We also searched for rarities on our trek but none had flown in that day though there was a good variety of nice birds to include Eurasian Teals, Little Egrets, Grey Herons, and White Storks.
The water wheel “cruise liner” crossing Le Petit RhôneThe ferry runs all year every half hour–with time off for lunch, of course.Horses waiting for the ferry called Bac du SauvageOhoy, maties–grab super fresh fish here!The rustic eatery Cabanne du Pêcheur
After wandering around the nature zone, ducking in and out of bird observatories, we headed to the funky fish shack called Cabanne du Pêcheur Chez Zu. The hitch is that this authentic, rustic eatery is on the other side of Le Petit Rhône from the nature park. But no need to drive in search of a bridge when you can slide onto a free, flat-bed water-wheel car ferry that whisks vehicles to the other side in about three minutes, every half hour–except during lunch. Walkers, cyclists, as well as horses, are welcome aboard the “cruise liner,” too.
Crispy calamar and Lotte tails with garlic sauceDecadent frites!Pork sausage offered while pondering the menu.
Under sunny skies, we joined a dozen other couples on the terrace appointed with a mish-mash of weathered furniture to enjoy the river view and the delectable crispy monkfish called Lotte and tiny squid rings, accompanied by fabulous frites. Delicious and decadent it was!
**
While asleep, flamingos make for a beautiful, serene spectacle.
Wherever you are, dear readers, I wish you health, happiness and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Pleasures of Provence is moving along. The initial, complete (albeit rough) draft will soon make its way to the beta reader stage. Loads of hoops to hop through but progress is happening.
PPS
For a splendid, off-the-beaten-track travel article on the Camargue, check out Alexis Steinman’s Cowboys and flamingos in the wild, wild South, New York Times, International Edition, 21 August 2024
Scorching sunset sets mountains on fire, Calvi, Corsica
Stunning scenery, delicious cuisine, glorious beaches, and enchanting towns are all to be found on the Île de Beauté, the Island of Beauty.
Picture perfect pleasure boat port, Calvi
Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace duly impressed us earlier this month during our week-long stay in Calvi, in the northern sector–despite an island-wide, wildcat strike at airports and seaports two days before our departure, and Ralph’s altercation with a twin-engine Zodiac, an inflatable vessel. Luckily the grève ended in a day, not affecting our return flight to Marseille. And Ralph didn’t break any bones when he slipped while disembarking the cruise “ship” that had whisked us to the ultra wild Scandola Nature Preserve. (Though his hip bruise was a doozey.)
Swim the Med in early October? In Calvi, of course!
The fourth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, just seven miles north of Sardinia, Corsica became officially French around 1768. For the nearly 500 previous years, the ruggedly mountainous Île had been ruled by the Republic of Genoa. Consequently, the island radiates a unique blend of Italian and French flair.
Here, I’ll let the photos paint the picture:
Calvi from the Sentier de Douanes, Path of the Customs OfficialsSteep paths lead to small, inviting coves Walking the beach is a joy in CalviYacht “parked” in CalviQuiet paths crisscross Calvi’s CitadelPopular L’Île de Beauté brasserie on the waterfrontMaster pizza maker Emmanuel shows off his dough tossing skills, A Punta Belly up to the bar at friendly Italian restaurant, A PuntaFigatellu, a local sausage, spices up pizza, A PuntaHearty ham and cheese calzone, A PuntaMouthwatering moules-frites at Via MarinaDelicious saffron infused sauce enhances this fish dish at L’Île de Beauté Local looking for morsels at Via MarinaColorful Calvi cafe on the waterfront Big bonbon sculpture by Laurence Jenkell, Kasano Hotel & Spa, CalviL’Église Sainte-Marie de CalviDramatic cliffs of Scandola Nature PreserveA rare structure overlooks a small cove, ScandolaCruising through Scandola Nature PreserveWild goat poses outside its hilltop hermit abodeCharming L’Île-Rousse, north of CalviL’Île-Rousse outdoor market exceeds most garlic needsChurch of Immaculate Conception, L’Île-RousseA multi-generational roving band entertains during the 195th Fiera di L’Isula, L’Île-RousseA friendly Red Kite flew by almost daily.The bronze Marinella Mermaid by Gabriel Diana, L’Île-RousseMoody CalviCalvi shimmers at dusk
Take good care and all the best for health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
A sweet beach discovery, Calvi
PS
As for Pleasures of Provence…the good news is that a manuscript resembling a full first draft is done—I think. But whether or not it is, forward I go into the editing stage–hooray! All positive thoughts you care to share are most welcome:)
Nice, France, in mid-September. Yep, those are swimmers in the Med!
Twisting my arm to visit Nice is hardly necessary. In September, or any time of year, really, the splendiferous seaside city on the Côte d’Azur covers the three Es with ease–enchanting, enthralling and enticing its way into your heart. Whether it be the stunning architecture, inviting climate, dazzling Mediterranean location, buzzy ambiance, markets, vibrant cultural scene, or the diverse cuisine, one way or the other, this south-of-France metropolis is sure to capture your imagination one way or the other.
Strolling the Promenade des Anglais, along the Med Outside of Bocca Nissa restaurantThe impressive central train station in Nice
The daunting traffic, however, is not likely to be on anybody’s hit list. So when Ralph and I made a plan to rendezvous with a wonderful friend who was passing through the big city, we relied on the train to take us in—from Biot, a little town less than a half hour’s ride west of Nice.
Faux flowers adorn an ice cream shop in ValbonneValbonn’es 13th century Eglise Saint Blaise
Staying in charming Valbonne–about two and a half hours from Saint-Rémy–we drove through the country to the Biot gare in 30 minutes, parked the car in a big lot next to the sea at no charge, hopped on the train, and presto, a few minutes later we arrived in Nice.
Amy Trowell (right), manager of the Around the World bookshop, holds Passion for ProvenceWriter Rena Pederson (center) hams it up with a Texas friend and me outside the bookshop.
Though our visit was short, it was oh-so-sweet. First we met our spirited writer friend Rena Pederson at the brand new English language bookstore called Around the World. It’s an off-shoot of the Librairie Masséna, “One of France’s leading independent bookshops,” according to The Connexion (2 Aug. ’24). We had a lovely time chatting with the charming British manager, Amy Trowell, and snooping through the variety of titles.
Delicious keftas from the tapas menu at Bocca NissaAn Indian Silverbill entertained us on the rooftop terrace at Bocca.
The rooftop terrace of Bocca Nissa, a restaurant recently recommended in a New York Time’s article, was our choice for lunch. Not only was the repast scrumptious but there was an unexpected treat. Flitting about the trees on the terrace was a cute birdie called an Indian Silverbill, a new bird for our 2024 list.
Stunning architecture is eye-catching on Avenue Jean Médecin leading to Place Messéna.
Shopping at Galeries Lafayette, strolling the Promenade des Anglais, having coffee in the Marriott Méridien lounge—chatting up a storm along the way—occupied the rest of the afternoon. Good-byes are never easy but we were so pleased with ourselves that we’d made our rendezvous happen, smiles prevailed.
All set to dine al fresco on the terrace at Relais de la Poste, ValbonneThe cozy interior at Relais de la PosteDeliciously spicy Thai chicken, Relais de la PosteA pair of grilled rougets served with colorful roasted veggies, Relais de la Poste
Back in Valbonne, we had a terrific meal at the welcoming Relais de la Poste, followed by a very badly timed walk back to the hotel during a determined downpour. Yep, we got a bit damp!
A dreamy night on Place des Arcades, ValbonneGraceful arcades surround Place des Arcades, the main square in ValbonneA sunny lane leading to Place des Arcades, ValbonneA quiet afternoon, ValbonneA cacophony of colors at a flower stall in the Valbonne market
But the next morning the soleil returned, illuminating the outdoor market stalls that envelope Valbonne village each Friday. And happily those sunbeams kept us company throughout our trek to chez nous, en Provence.
***
Wishing you all the best for happiness, health and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Pleasures of Provence is gaining traction—hoorah!
PPS
If you’re a true crime fan, check out Rena’s latest book–the page-turning whodunit, King of Diamonds, about a Dallas jewel thief who worked throughout the 60s and was never caught. Nor were the gems found.
Les Alpilles preside over the area’s rich agricultural zone.
À table, mes amis! Come sit down for some mouthwatering meals—if only vicariously—with the celebrity chef Marcus Wareing, who hosts the recently released British TV series, Simply Provence. Throughout 15 episodes, this Michelin-starred chef highlights the products of a handful of the best producers in Provence. From tomatoes to chocolate, the curious and exacting chef goes to the source to find terrific local ingredients for meals that he prepares on a rooftop terrace.
A float in Saint-Rémy’s parade to honor of Saint Eloi, the patron saint of farmers.
And lo and behold, that rooftop terrace is right here in historic Saint-Rémy- de-Provence! In fact, we’ve walked right by the pale stone village house at least a zillion times and what’s more, we have patronized many of the producers and locales—so fun! And those we didn’t know, we are now tracking down which is also a complete delight!
Monique probably stocks the cheese you need.Fabien and his wife Lauren at the St. Rémy marketDomaine Castelas’ basil and mint-infused olive oil is divine.
Here are just a few of the highlights: A wide range of fromage can be found at the very well-stocked shop Monique in the historic center. Produce by Fabien Dumont and his lovely wife Lauren is as fresh as it comes. They have a stand at the Saint-Rémy market, both Saturday (in front of the exclusive Souleiado clothing shop) and on Wednesday, near the restaurant Marilyn. The olive oil from Moulin Castelas, on the other side of the Alpilles, below Les Baux, is simply exquisite. English-speaking Emilie, the daughter of the owners, does a super job leading the host around the domaine. We’ve known her for years–she was born in Arizona, in fact.
Great for lovers of lamb.Free range poulet from Pons.Frédérique ready to hand over my hearty wheat loaf, pain complet.
The restaurant Bar Tabac Les Alpilles, known for its lamb, is run by the perennially upbeat Patrick. Even if lamb is not your thing, the authentic brasserie is a nice spot to relax with a coffee or verre de vin. And for bread, Wareing goes to the Terre et Blé bakery (in the industrial zone) for its stellar loaves made from specially grown wheat. I rarely went there as it’s a bit off the beaten track but I’ll happily make the effort now. The thick and chewy wheat loaf I picked up recently was stunning toasted or not. The prize for poulets went to Eric Pons. This young fellow doesn’t have a stand in Saint-Rémy, but I’m hoping this will change. I wasn’t aware of his free-range chicken farm before seeing the show but now I’ve been informed that those “in the know” find them at the Utile grocery store in Eyragues, about 10 minutes from St. Rémy. They’re quite a bit more expensive than regular (less happy?) chickens, but we roasted one this weekend and it was incredibly delicious. (I did have to ask the butcher to remove the neck/head!)
Charming Joël Durand in his quaint shop in St. Rémy.
And lastly, there’s chocolate in a variety of forms and flavors by master chocolatier Joël Durand. In addition to chocolate candies, decadent toppings (sold in attractive jars) may temp you too. Whatever you purchase, you’ll most likely be offered a bite-sized sample of the specialty of the day—yum.
Master multi-tasker Jérôme runs Bienbon, Maison Favier and now Le Village.
Throughout the series, Mr. Wareing is accompanied by a super congenial restaurateur, Jérôme. He runs both Bienbon and Maison Favier restaurants, which serve inventive seasonal fare. And he just opened a tea room/ice cream shop/boutique called Le Village (on the site of the former Spar market). The comfy chairs outside offer a convenient place to relax while enjoying a coffee and perhaps a little treat, too.
Till next time, dear readers, stay safe, happy and hopeful.
Bises, Gayle
Find ultra yummy sweet treats at Maison Gaillardet.
PS
For those Saint-Rémy visitors with a sweet tooth, try the patisserie Maison Gaillardet for their specialty, the troprovençale, similar to the cream-filled tart, the tropézienne—heavenly! The small ones (4 euros) come in a cute little box.
Golden Eagle (cropped) by Giles Laurent, Wikimedia
PPS
Pleasures of Provence marches on–word by word, page by page. The Alps beckon, however, so I won’t be tapping on my laptop quite as much for a few days. But hopefully, the mountain air will prove inspirational. Plus, perhaps a Golden Eagle will fly our way. I’ve never seen one and Ralph has only spotted one once. We’ll do our best!
Shimmering Place Nationale, Montauban Sunny Place NationaleQuaint used book storeDouble-arched arcades
A Huguenot hotbed in the early seventeenth century, the city of Montauban in southwest France became the headquarters for the Protestant rebels in 1621. Legend has it that in order to end a lengthy siege, Catholic King Louis XIII’s army pummeled the town with 400 cannonballs. The townsfolk held and so did the phrase, faire les quatre cents coups, “to make 400 blows,” which morphed into an idiom meaning to raise hell or to live a wild life.
This upscale hardware-deco store has it all!The stylish boutique Graine d’Interieur,
For the record, there may not have been anywhere near 400 “blows”on Montauban–though it might have felt like it–one of them left a canon-sized hole in the “L’Église Saint-Jacques. And regardless of the actual number of cannonball hits Montauban weathered, French film director Francois Truffaut set the 400-number in cinematic stone when he titled his acclaimed New Wave film about a rebellious youngster Les Quatre Cents Coups (1959).
Fabulous tuna amuse bouche, Antoine L’OmnivoreRadishes galore, Saturday market Oh so yummy seafood starter, AntoineScrumptious asparagus starter at Antoine L’Omnivore, MontaubanSuperb lieu noir with moules and fresh veggies at welcoming 5 BouchonsA fave olive oil producer–Castelas–from Provence!Can’t get fresher than this–at the Saturday marketDelectable goodies at Mauranes, est. 1965
Though I may harbor some rebel remnants, perhaps due to my Huguenot heritage—my grandmother on my dad’s side was a Michaux—on our four-day foray to Montauban, peace and harmony ruled. Our trip was all about meeting up with lovely friends, enjoying fine cuisine, and quietly following our noses—without a warring faction in sight.
City Hall, MontaubanJardin des Plantes, a glorious green spaceLa Musée Ingres BourdelleJean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, 1852: A Portrait of Caroline Gonse (facsimile) By J.A.D. Ingres: Roger Freeing Angelique (1841 version of 1819 work)Poster art at Musée Ingres: “Must women be nudes to enter the museum? Less than 3% of the artists are women but 83% of the nudes are women.”
Like its neighbor Toulouse, this town of 60 thousand residents on the River Tarn is constructed mainly of reddish-pink clay bricks. Just take a gander at the main square, Place Nationale, and you’ll get the pretty picture. Also, Montauban has a charming pedestrian old town filled with loads of spiffy boutiques, gorgeous green spaces, a terrific Musée Ingres Bourdelle, an extensive outdoor Saturday market and some upscale restaurants and a terrific museum, La Musée Ingres Bourdelle. (Surprising fact: During World War II, DaVinci’s Mona Lisa was spirited away to Montauban for safe keeping.)
Pretty Cordes sur Ciel is filled with artisan boutiques.Sur les Paves, a cozy veggie restaurant, Cordes sur CielDelicious plat du jour at Sur les PavesCordes sur Ciel offers bucolic viewsCotlswold-like countryside, Cordes sur CielA cute artisan shop, Cordes sur CielIntricate ironwork adorns a souvenir shopBeautiful works of handmade art await
In addition, it’s just an hour from the postcard pretty artisan enclave of Cordes sur Ciel.
Mais oui, Montauban is worth a detour!
All the best for a lovely rest-of-spring.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Pleasures of Provence is taking shape–much like a hummingbird builds its nest–the Rome Way, not in a day. Truth be told, experiencing these tempting Provencal pleasures cuts in to typing time. But so be it–balance is key, n’est ce pas?
PPS
Though we hoped for a black woodpecker in the countryside outside Cordes-sur-Ciel, the noisy operator opted for seclusion. But on a follow-up trip to Saintes-Maries-de-Mer in the Camargue, this handsome grey heron struck a dignified pose.
Gayle Smith Padgett 