Mont Sainte-Victoire looms large over Aix-en-Provence
Mesmerizing Mont Sainte-Victoire is a stunner–any time of day, in any light.
Approaching dusk, Mont Sainte Victoire turns to shimmering gold.
If you are doubtful, check in with Cezanne. This magnificent montagne that towers over Aix-en-Provence was the subject of 36 paintings and 45 watercolors produced by the town’s most famous native son, post-Impressionist artist, Paul Cezanne (1839-1906). He is credited with providing the essential link between late 19th century Impressionism and early 20th century Cubism.
Cezanne’s obsession with the mountain is understandable. When you have a direct countryside view of it, like Ralph and I did on a recent stay on the outskirts of the artist’s home town, you are glued to the seductive sight of the mountain–glowing in the morning sunshine and casting deep purple shadows at sundown. We just didn’t want to miss a minute of it.
Vallauris, near Cannes on the French RivieraThe courtyard at the Musée Nationale Pablo PicassoL’Église-Sainte-Anne-Saint-Martin-de-Vallauris
But there were things to do, things to see. One was visiting a delightful très chère amie in the town of Vallauris, home to one of Cezanne’s famous admirers, Pablo Picasso. (The Spanish artist, along with Henri Matisse, considered Cezanne the “father of us all” and owned several of his works.) The village, just inland from Cannes on the French Riviera, counted Picasso as a resident from 1948 to 1955.
Beautiful bird plate, but probably not for eating on!“Red owl on black background” (’53)Three owl vases (1969)
In the center of town, the Musée Nationale Pablo Picasso commemorates his work in ceramics. The production of earthenware pottery in Vallauris dates to Roman times, but Picasso raised the town’s profile considerably. The museum collection showcases a wide range of his ceramic works, many of which feature feathered friends, usually doves or owls—my personal favorites!
Picasso’s War & Peace at the Musée Nationale Pablo Picasso, in Vallauris.
Aside from the extensive ceramics collection, the highlight of the museum has to be Picasso’s moving anti-war work, La Guerre et La Paix, which covers the interior of a small chapel. Picasso painted the scenes on flat, but flexible panels, which were then fitted onto the chapel walls and vaulted ceiling.
Picasso and a bird vase (Photo by Edward Quinn, ’53, museum collection)Picasso taking a dip in the Med (scene from museum film)Picasso with Suzanne Ramié (Photo by Edward Quinn, ’53, museum collection)The sky aglow to the west of Mont Sainte-Victoire, on the outskirts of Aix.
Following our foray to Vallauris, where we admired Picasso’s poignant tribute to peace, we returned to the tranquility of Cezanne country in time to witness the sun setting on the artist’s preferred subject, Mount Sainte-Victoire. As the orange sherbet glow blanketed the mountain, a sense of calm and tranquility emerged. As if to underscore the brilliance of the peaceful scene, a silvery dove gently flapped its way through the sky. It was a fitting finale to a day spent in awe and wonder of the harmony and serenity that art and nature can provide.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, ready for spring.
Stay healthy, happy, and hopeful.
Bises, Gayle
PS
On a recent visit to the terrific Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau, near Saintes-Maries-de-Mer, I met up with the very upbeat and engaging director, Frédéric Lamouroux. Here, he most kindly shows off my book, The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie. I assured him that the next book, Pleasures of Provence (working title) will definitely include action at the park. I also assured him that it’ll be a while. But like migrating birds, I try to do my best to keep moving, hopefully in a (mostly) forward direction.
An illuminated Eiffel Tower wows passengers on an evening cruise on the Seine.
Van Gogh made me go. To Paris, that is. Not that the City of Light needed any more allure than it already has to draw me in. And by the fast train, the TGV, this magnificent city with its powerful je ne sais quoi energy is reachable in less than 3 hours from Avignon, just 20 minutes north of Saint-Rémy.
The Louvre Pyramid by I. M. PeiRoad construction by the Arc de TriompheCranes surround Notre Dame
So why now? Because for the first time ever, the much acclaimed exposition of paintings from Van Gogh’s last months in the town of Auvers-sur-Oise (30 kilometers north of Paris) was in full swing at my beloved Musée d’Orsay. This former train station houses an incredible range of works by my favorite Impressionists and Post-Impressionists and a treasure trove of other magnificent masterpieces. The expo would end the beginning of February, so if I wanted to witness this extraordinary collection by the Dutch master who spent a year in at a psychiatric hospital Saint-Rémy, this was the time.
Vintage poster of the Auvers-sur-Oise train stationThe main hall at Musée d’OrsayVintage poster of Auvers-sur-Oise Portrait of Dr. Paul Gachet, 1890, AuversVan Gogh self-portrait, Sept. 1889, while in St. RémyThe Church of Auvers, 1890Willem DaFoe as Van Gogh in the film At Eternity’s GateThe Starry Night over the Rhône, painted while in Arles, 1888
The Van Gogh exhibition lived up to its hype but, the crowds rendered lingering pretty much impossible. Happily, the rest of the museum had plenty of room to roam through the insanely incredible permanent collection–to include many by Van Gogh which he painted before relocating in Auvers-sur-Oise.
Waiting for Van Gogh, Musée d’OrsayLe Petit Palais Musée de Beaux-Arts Inside the Van Gogh expo
The five-day, cram-packed trip was a non-stop whirlwind. I’d over-programmed to the hilt and beyond–even excluding the main tourists sites because we’d been there done that over the years. So we focused on art and architecture, to include the expo by the Latvian-American abstract painter Mark Rothko at the crazy cool Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton–fashioned after a ship–as well as the Berthe Morisot exhibition at the Musée Marmottan. And we revisited some old haunts like the Luxembourg Gardens and Place Vosges, and indulged in some terrific culinary delights. Luckily, the weather cooperated, which was nothing short of a miracle the end of January, allowing us to walk everywhere. In fact, the last full day there, we clocked 25,000 steps–yikes!
The superbly renovated department store, La Samaritaine The ever popular English language book shop Shakespeare and Co.The glorious stained glass dome at Galeries LafayetteStunningly gorgeous Galeries LafayetteA glass walkway extends over the center of Galeries LafayetteFrank Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuitton, a splendid art venueMark Rothko’s “No. 14,” 1960Vintage photograph of the atelier of Lativian-born American abstract painter Mark RothkoMark Rothko’s “No. 6 (Yellow, White, Blue over Yellow on Gray), 1954German artist Katharina Grosse’s “Canyon,” 2022, Acrylic on 8 aluminum petals at the Fondation Louis VuittonWait staff at the ready, Le Train Bleu, Gare de LyonEntrance to Le Train Bleu, Gare de LyonLuscious Caesar Salad, Le Train BleuGayle & Ralph, after a scrumptious “snack,” Le Train Bleu
To cap off the visit, we planned on a “bite” at the splendiferous restaurant Le Train Bleu, at the Gare de Lyon. It’s one of revered food critic Alexander Lobrano’s top 30 restaurants in Paris listed in his compelling book, My Place at the Table, so I was keen to try it. There wasn’t time for a relaxed meal in the ornate main dining room–as this quite pricey option merits–so we headed to the extensive “bar” area, which offers much more casual and reasonable fare. The Caesar salad and club sandwich were sensational. Highly recommend!
Ultra fresh and tasty falafel, MaozYummy veggie fare at Maoz, near Shakespeare & Co.
At the other end of the spectrum are the falafel pitas we picked up at Maoz (Latin Quarter). Stuffed with fresh veggies selected from a serve-yourself bar, they were delicious. And munching them on a bench, near the Seine while people-watching under sunny skies, made a happy memory.
And in between is Brasserie Balzac, which I’d read about in The New York Times. Hemingway and his crew used to hang out there. We just happened to be passing by around 1:30 PM en route to Luxembourg Gardens. Without a reservation at this historic haunt, which we assumed would be packed, we prepared ourselves to be turned away. Instead, we were greeted most warmly and seated right away at a well-positioned table–one of the few still available. The roast chicken was incredible and the ambiance authentic and lively.
Kids sail boats on a pond in Luxembourg GardensThe famous chocolate shop, La Mère de Famille was founded in 1761!Beautiful, peaceful Place VosagesPopular Bar du Marché on rue de Seine, 6th ArrondisementVintage photo Berthe Morisot, Musée Marmottan“Jeune Femme au Divan,” Berthe Morisot, 1885“L’Amour et Psyche,” by Giovanni Maria Benzoni after Antonio Canova, 1845, Musée Marmottan
Before I sign off, a few words of advice if you are planning a Paris trip soon. Chances are crowds will be even greater as the weather warms and the Olympics near, so be prepared for extended waits, be it trying to buy a metro ticket, browse in Shakespeare & Co. book shop, or munch a decadent treat at Angelina, the elegant pastry shop/restaurant. Target your top must-see and dos and calculate distances/time–considering construction delays–to avoid meltdowns. (Who, moi?) If you do end up walking more than you’d planned on, more reason to wear ultra comfy walking shoes—your footsies (and your emotional state) will thank you.
Bises, Gayle
Cascading blooms adorn cafes across the cityMore posies the better!Delightful, eye-catching fleurs
PS
Yes, I’m beavering away on Book Three, to which, for the moment, I’ve assigned the working title, Pleasures of Provence. This seems fitting since it points to the special aspects of life in this region that I’ll strive to convey, perhaps in some surprising ways.
A Rose-ringed Parakeet wishes us adieu by Musée Marmottan.
PPS
Our last day in Paris was dull and gray. But, this cooperative feathered friend–a Rose-ringed Parakeet–flitting about the park by the Musée Marmottan perked up our spirits when it posed for a moment as if to say, “Au revoir et bonne route!”
Whether pale pink or brilliant coral, how I love the Greater Flamingos. Here they prance in the Camargue, early this year.
Meilleurs Vœux to all for a very happy, healthy and hopeful New Year!
A pastel pre-dusk January sky over the Mediterranean by Saintes-Maries-de-Mer
The Nouvelle Anneé signals a special foray for Ralph and me to the Camargue, the vast wetland about an hour from home where the Rhône River empties into the Med and, for at least part of the year, a magnificent variety of wildlife calls home.
Rosé from Ridley Scott’s winery near Ménerbes adds a celebratory note to our seashore picnic.
We commemorated finishing our 2019 big birding year here on 1 Jan 2020, and a tradition was born. Though Ralph and I visit regularly throughout the year, early each January, we make a point of paying tribute to area’s significance in our lives—this majestic nature park was a major draw for us settling in Provence over ten years ago.
The Little Egret, with its golden “booties,” taking a breakThe Little Egret showing off its elegant feathery cape
I know, where did the decade go? Well, part of the answer is losing track of time spent in this magical place—cruising the boardwalk, people-watching from a place in the sand, taking a dip, watching the waves crash, munching a pique-nique, soaking up the sunshine (or feeling the freezing breeze, as the season dictates), witnessing traditional festivals, indulging in a fresh fish lunch in the quaint village of Sainte-Maries-de-Mer, or, of course, birding the extensive marshland.
The elusive Kingfisher, my “spark bird,” the one that officially kicked off my birding journey.
Now that yours truly has flitted into the realm of “birderdom,” and still a fledgling (there is a ton to know), I am spending more time roaming the wetlands with Ralph.
The White Stork, lallagagging in a distant Camargue pond.Ralph just spotted the White Stork
This year the tradition continues, with the added objective of searching for a recently reported phalarope, like a miniature gull, which is rare for Provence. (It refused to be spotted by us, however.) The outing also provided an early boost to our 2024 bird list—no pressure, just easy-going and fun. This included seeing my first flamingos of the year—happy days!
Bises, Gayle
Like this Little Egret, let’s shake off the dust and make a fresh start in 2024!
PS
Book Three update: The narrative about how our life in Provence is shaping up is taking shape, though not without substantial word wrestling. It feels like a mano-a-mano duel sometimes, but in a good way. (Mostly.)
In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, l’Église Saint Martin all aglow for the holidays
Dear Readers,
From a tad-bit-chilly but mostly sunny Saint-Rémy-de-Provence…
Wherever you may be, I hope that you and your loved ones are well and that this holiday time brings you joy. Wishing you all the very, very best for a safe, healthy, happy, and hopeful 2024!
My heartfelt appreciation goes out to each and every one of you for your spirited support of this blog (and Instagrams!) throughout the year. And for continuing to spread the word about The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie, as well as Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie. With all my heart, Mille Fois Merci!
As 2023 draws to a close and we begin New Year 2024, I hope you’ll venture into nature more and more—and with a particular interest in watching and listening to our feathered friends. To identify birdsong, try the free app called Merlin—très easy and fun.
Grosses bises, Gayle
PS
Book Number Three is in the works. Progress would be much faster if I weren’t distracted by so many of the enticing pleasures of Provence—like discovering there’s a direct train from Avignon to Mannheim, next door to Heidelberg, where Ralph and I lived and worked for many years. So a few weeks ago, we hopped aboard the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) to catch up with friends and visit the Christmas market—like a mini Strassbourg marché de noël. It was as delightful as ever, especially the Friesen Punsch, a special vin chaud with an extra bloop of rum—yummy! After freezing for a week, it was lovely to return to the relative warmth of Saint-Rémy, and much of the time, glorious sapphire skies.
Heidelberg Castle above the Old Bridge and Neckar River—forever a stunning sight to behold.
*Holiday Book Sale on Amazon: A gift idea for your Francophile friends, perhaps? The Kindle version of both Passion for Provence and The Birdwatcher’s Wife will be on sale ($2.99) throughout December. Happy reading!
Gayle Smith Padgett 