Shimmering Église Saint-Martin revs up the holiday magic.
From Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, all spruced up for the holidays, wishing you…
All the verybest for JOYEUSES FÊTES 2025 & MEILLEURS VŒUX FOR 2026!
It’s Happy Holidays time!The ever-delighful toy store, Le Cheval à Bascule.Golden deer atop Fiston, in centre ville.A polar bear takes a stroll.The Christmas tree at the Grand Café RicheCafé La Place, all gussied up for the holidays
My heartfelt thanks to you for taking the time to read my blog and your supportive comments throughout the year. I hope my stories have provided some joie de vivre moments, boosting your spirits.
The Fête des Lumières on 6 December brought out the crowds!
And may those positive sentiments continue to resonate as time goes by. And going by is what time does—2026 is nearly here! But before we ring in the new year, I hope you’ll enjoy some sweet, slow-lane time filled with holiday cheer.
Place Jules Pellissier, in centre ville, glows golden during the holiday season.
As always, wherever you are, dear readers, all the very best for happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
A trio of Common Cranes (Photo by wyvern1963, CC-BY-4.0, Wikimedia, cropped)
PS
The Common Cranes are back—yay! Ralph and I heard their honking before they showed up–dozens of them flying over Saint-Rémy!
Pretty in pink–the Christmas tree ride at the Fête de Noël in Nice, where we spent Thanksgiving.And its icy blue version–climb aboard!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence has progressed through the proofreader, and the cover is in the works. Full of cautious optimism, I’m hopeful the book will see the light of day by early spring—watch this space!
Vines shimmer in the afternoon sun near the wine cooperative, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, close to the Pont du Gard
Here in La Belle France, there are plenty of national holidays, but Thanksgiving isn’t one of them. It’s business as usual on the fourth Thursday in November, with folks working, kids studying, and stores following regular hours—including supermarkets, where you will not find heaps of humongous turkeys and elaborate stacks of canned pumpkin and cranberry sauce. But that’s not to say that there are no “Thanksgiving” celebrations. Au contraire!
Expansive view over the Luberon Valley from the restaurant Le Saint Hubert
Maybe not on the day, but close to it, Americans living in France usually find a way to come together with close ones, both locals and other expats, to give thanks and show appreciation for all they treasure. To mark the occasion, Ralph and I will travel to the Côte d’Azur by train to meet up with friends and enjoy a fancy feast ensemble.
The inviting dining room at Le Saint HubertLe Saint Hubert in the hilltop village of Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt
In anticipation of that gourmet event, we have been training our taste buds. Two culinary “workouts” were standouts and, curiously, both happened in a round about way. The main reason we reserved a table at the Le Saint Hubert in Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt was to meet a stranger. The grandson of close friends of close friends in California was doing an internship at the restaurant as a pastry chef. On the heels of finishing a three-year program at the Culinary Institute of America, the twenty-one year old was now completing a three-month stint under the supervision of the chef/owners, American Lise Kvar and her French husband, Eric Monteleon. We would hop over to say hello and sample his “work.”
Cod starter at Le Saint HubertGuinea fowl with a rich sauceYummy gnocchi with broccoli
The owners weren’t on site, but their staff couldn’t have been more welcoming and gracious, seating us in the area near the floor to ceiling sliding doors, where we marveled at the expansive Luberon valley view. Then we marveled at the lunch. Our scrumptious meal began with a fresh and flavorful cod confit, resting on a bed of thick hummous-like cream, with escarole and olives. For the main course, I ordered gnocchis à la romaine—large, thick disks made with semolina flour instead of potatoes—set on Parmesan sauce, surrounded by bright green broccoli flowerettes—delicious. Ralph opted for the filet de pintade, guinea fowl, with creamy fennel-infused polenta. Mais oui, he shared a few bites—deeply rich and yummy.
Out of this world chocolate mousse cake at Le Saint Hubert
But it was the dessert prepared by our new pastry chef friend that was astonishingly fab. The chocolate mousse cake topped with toasted hazelnuts was a little piece of heaven. Together, Ralph and I polished off every delectable tidbit—truly out of this world.Hats off to the entire team, including the talented pastry chef-in-training.
The countryside hotel-restaurant La Belle Vie near the Pont du GardThe stylish dining room
Our second culinary adventure occurred due to a newspaper article and a closure. We were headed to the wine cooperative, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, to pick up some vin rouge called Carambouille (2023) that we’d read about in The New York Times. Since we’d arrive in the area around lunchtime, when the coop was closed, we were planning on a bite in a nearby wine village. Our sights were set on a small restaurant belonging to the Bistrot de Pays group, meaning a countryside establishment offering local, fresh, homemade fare. Located in Domazan, the Bistrot de l’Hoste looked perfect from the outside—but that was all we’d see, as the owners were en vacances for the week. Switching gears, we followed an Instagram tip from food critic Alex Lobrano and headed to Saint-Hilaire d’Ozilhan (near the Pont du Gard), home to the Hôtel La Belle Vie.
Amuse-bouches at La Belle VieFresh from the seaEvery dish is an artful presentation
The gourmet meal at a stylish hotel was far from the simple lunch we’d imagined. Though we ordered only a main dish and coffee, we were wowed by an array of delectable amuse-bouches before the meal and afterward, some sweet delights, artfully presented with care by Head Waiters Camille and Gwendoline, who is also the sommelier. The variety of canapés, which preceded the main course, were delicious, including a tartelette of fennel, almonds, and smoked fish and another of cod mousse, plus a small olive brioche. After another yummy “prelude,” Ralph and I both enjoyed the red mullet from the Med, accompanied by a fondante of fennel and potato, served with a bowl of frothy fish-based soup. Every morsel was a dream to savor. Little did we know at the time that Chef Denis Martin is Michelin-starred—he received the coveted étoile while working at The Marcel in Sète.
Delectable bites served with coffee at La Belle Vie–plus a zingy juice blend.
We finished our surprise refined lunch with coffee, which arrived with several mignardises, sweet treats: a pineapple cube wrapped in a delicate almond-based coat, pralined chocolates, and a shot glass filled with zingy apple-ginger-myrtylle-lime juice—all wow!
Spirited Sandrine at the Estézargues cooperativeThe tasteful tasting room
After that refined dining experience, we nearly forgot the purpose of our trek—Les Vignerons d’Estézargues. We looped back around to the coop, where considerate Sandrine gently informed us that we were out of luck—the 2023 wine had sold out—but alas, they had plenty of the 2024 vintage! So we bought a few bottles, as well as a couple of others that the knowledgeable sommelier suggested.
The food-and-wine-based outings delivered two days of discovery close to home. Not only had they trained our taste buds, but they also reminded us of how much we had to be grateful for. Thanksgiving here we come.
**
Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you all the best for happiness, health, and hope.
And a très Happy Thanksgiving!
Bises,
Gayle
The stunning and elusive Wallcreeper by Kookaburra 81, CC BY-SA.4.0
PS
The Wallcreeper with its striking ruby wings has been spotted nearby—just not by us—so the search continues.
PPS
I’m very pleased (and relieved) to report that, after a few machinations, Pleasures of Provence is with the proofreader, who will run it through its paces until early December. In the meantime, the cover design moves to top priority. Publication is tentatively set for early spring, and we’re cautiously optimistic that’s a realistic goal😊
Mont Sainte-Victoire (1897, oil on canvas), one of over 35 oils and 45 watercolors of the mountain near Aix-en-Provence that so captivated Cezanne.
Autumn and art, a perfect pairing. When the vines begin to turn rusty gold and deep crimson, marking the end of the summer crowds in our popular Provençal patch, it’s time to put away the parasol and seek some culture.
Portrait of the Artist with Pink Background (c.1875, oil on canvas), by Paul Cezanne, “Father of Modern Art.”The “Founder of Impressionism,” Claude Monet.
This particular change of seasons was my cue to check out a couple of standout events spotlighting two French titans of art history: Monet, Founder of Impressionism (Claude Monet, 1840-1926) at the Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, and Cezanne au Jas de Bouffan, (Paul Cezanne, 1839-1906) at the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence.
La Fontaine de la Rotunde welcomes visitors to Aix-en-Provence, a city of art and culture.
Carrières des Lumières is a former interior quarry, repurposed as a stunning art venue featuring immersive sound and light art-themed spectacles. Each year, the program showcases different artists, but one aspect remains the same—the wow factor, and not just for the stunning visuals but also the dramatic musical accompaniment. I’ve been to nearly every one over the years, and though I’ve loved some more than others—Chagall (2016-17) and Picasso (2018-19) are faves to date—this one starring Claude Monet was impressive. During one segment, for example, you really feel like you’re on a moving train, watching the landscape whiz by.
Here are some highlights:
As the train pulls into Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris, you can practically feel the steam.Monet’s landscapes rush by as if you’re on a train.Water lilies near and far.The garden at Giverny covers multiple walls at once.With this winter scene splashed over 40-foot-high walls, the evocative icy chill feels real.Reflections bounce off the water,and the boats bounce too.
Luckily, Ralph and I made it to the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence before the terrific Paul Cezanne expo ended on 12 October. I should not have waited till the last minute, because I could have been out of luck finding tickets to the massively popular show and missed out on experiencing the unique collection of iconic works by the “Father of Modern Art.” Because Cezanne veered away from capturing fleeting moments as the Impressionists did and concentrated on exploring rule-breaking perspectives of form, structure, and color, he paved the way for 20th-century masters. Both Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse are known to have agreed that Cezanne was the “father of us all.”
Here are some of my favorites:
The Card Players, oil on canvas, painted between 1893 and 1896.The Women Bathers, oil on canvas, circa 1895Still Life with Apples and Melons, oil on canvas, ca. 1895Still Life with Apples, oil on canvas,1895-98Portrait of the Artist’s Father, reading L’Événement, oil o canvas,1866
One last note on the Cezanne show. The collection included just one painting of Mont Sainte-Victoire, but it meant a lot to me. After having lived in Aix for 18 months–before moving to Saint-Rémy–we often walked to the plateau where Cezanne set up his easel to paint the multi-faceted mountain. I loved gazing at it, watching the light and shadows dance across its rugged surface, each snapshot offering a different perspective for seeing the world. Because I came to feel connected to it on a certain level, I felt closer to the region, as well. We never hiked the mountain, though, and that’s something I’d like to do one day–another item for the bucket list.
Wherever you are, dear readers, wishing you happiness, health, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Black Stork by Frank Vassen, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons (cropped)
PS
On the birding front, the Black Stork gets top billing this month—the impressive bird and its mates are back in Provence for the winter!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence is making its way toward the home stretch. The editor plans to send me the manuscript within a week, and then I can begin what hopefully is the final edit. When I’m finished with it (or it’s finished with me) and somehow the project is proclaimed “done,” next stop proofreader. Then the focus will turn to publication prep, and, of course, the cover. It will be similar to Passion for Provence, but distinctive. If you have any ideas, please pass them along!
El Port de la Selva isn’t a glitzy resort, but it twinkles brightly at night.
Just a hop, skip, and a scoot down the autoroute to the southwest, France’s border with Spain comes into view. And just beyond, the Costa Brava, the wild coast.
Ralph and I spent a week scoping out a slim sector of this dramatically scenic area in Catalonia, a semi-independent region in northeastern Spain, where Catalan is the dominant language. First, we spent a few days exploring the seaside town of El Port de la Selva. Set in the midst of the vast Cap Creus Nature Park, the authentic enclave is a haven for water sports enthusiasts, hikers, and cyclists.
Catamarans await customers.Cyclists are ubiquitous in this area.A lone paddle boarder heads to shore.Beautiful BegurJust after a rain shower, approaching Llança on the coastal path from Calella Palafrugell
And speaking of cycling, the nearby city of Girona is both the capital of Girona Province, and cycling in Europe. Professional cyclists gravitate here for its proximity to the Pyrenees and challenging coastal roads—aka steep and windy.
Anchovies atop a slice of crusty country bread make for a popular tapas dish.The Church of Santa Maria crowns Cadaqués.Tapas at L’Estable in Cadaqués.
We cruised over some of those crazy circuits (carefully) to reach some popular villages such as hilltop Begur, coastal Calella Palafrugell and Llança.
Dalí’s distinctive house in Port Lligat, by Cadaqués.View from the hillside garden.
After El Port de la Selva, we relocated to the picturesque coastal resort of Cadaqués, made famous by the Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. His uniquely decorated home—a warren of combined fishermen huts built on a quiet cove about a kilometer from the town center—is open to the public, visited by guided tour only. Though not a Dalí fan, I bought a ticket, curious to gain insights into the artist’s bizarre visions reflected in his works. I’m not sure I succeeded at that, but I did appreciate how much he loved the beguiling location. (Reservations necessary.)
The artist’s atelier with seaviewDalí’s design style didn’t tend toward minimalism.The extraordinary Dalí-Theater-Museum in Figueres, the artist’s birthplace.
Other Dalí-related sites in the area are the eye-popping Dalí-Theater-Museum and the house where the artist was born in Figueres. Nearby, in the remote village of Púbol, you’ll find the castle-retreat created for his wife, Gala. You can tour this property freely, so you can take time exploring the residence, as well as the lush garden and pretty pool area.
Cadaqués from on highSeafront view
The culinary highlight of the trip, without question, was our lunch at Restaurant Normal in Girona. Something beyond magical happens in the kitchen. Very highly recommend–reservations are essential.
Grilled eggplant and keffir lime sour cream was a stellar starter at Restaurant Normal in Girona. A standout main at Restaurant Normal: Angus beef Milanesa with pistachios.
Wherever you are, dear readers, all the best for health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
A European Shag with breeding-season crest.
PS: There were few special birds to be seen on our Costa Brava excursion, but Ralph did spot a European Shag. This photo, by Bouke ten Cate (CCBY-SA 4.0), shows the bird with its jaunty, breeding-season crest.
PPS: Pleasures of Provence update: I’m in the midst of a major “near-final” edit, and next month, the editor will review the manuscript again. Completion of this project still seems distant, but hopefully, I’ll get a glimpse of the light at the end of the proverbial tunnel very soon!
The Carreto Ramado (stuffed cart in Provençal) leads the traditional summer parade in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
Mid-August in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is feria time. Over an extended weekend, the town salutes its equestrian and rural heritage with parades, special apèros, brass bands, and outdoor DJ-directed dance-o-thon evenings called bodégas. And, of course, there are loads of special events featuring horses and bulls that take place in arenas, as well as on the main square and in the streets—with spectators ensconced behind metal barricades.
The traditional costumes of the Arlésiennes date to the 18th century. The “look” includes an intricate hair bun and decorative headdress.
Of the variety of happenings, one event not to miss is the Défilé de la Carreto Ramado, the elaborate parade that includes the fabulous Arlésiennes, dressed in period costumes. An enormous cart decorated with colorful flags, green foliage, highlighted with braids of garlic, sunflowers, and bouquets of lavender, leads a procession of dozens of linked-together draught horses, sporting ornate harnesses festooned with pompoms and ribbons. It’s quite the spectacle! Have a look:
Traditional attire of long-sleeved shirts and vests are de rigueur though temps tip toward 100F.Little girls sporting straw bonnets walk with purpose.Young equestrians promote the revered traditions.Sitting tall and proud in the saddle.Atop a horse-drawn carriage, a couple makes the rounds in comfort.Mayor Chérubini enjoying the festivities.Some female equestrians sit side-saddle, their long gowns flowing over their steeds.The post-parade party spills into the street.
Wherever you are this summer, dear readers, wishing you health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Gorgeous European roller courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci, CCASA 4.0, Wikimedia
PS
The European roller is a summer favorite in these parts. Such a treat to see it fly!
PPS
Pleasures of Provence is again with the primary editor, where, most likely, it will remain for a few weeks. When it returns, there will be more work to do—that is a given. When will it be ready for the proofreader? That, mes amis, is a complicated question. In the meantime, the trick is to keep on truckin’, n’est ce pas? And smiling!
A tower of rosé from the very cool La Cave du Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence
What’s the magic formula for a happy summer in Provence? Keeping cool ranks as the top factor, without a doubt. Mais oui, it’s been toasty here, folks. Morning walks in the Alpilles must begin earlier, and so, too, strolls through the terrific Wednesday market. The come-rain-or-shine vendors put up their gargantuan umbrellas, lay out their irresistible wares, and prepare for the rush of summer customers. It’s always such a pleasure to see what’s on offer—there’s something for everyone. Plan to arrive early to discover your treasure.
Pretty woven carrier bagsColorful scarves blowing in the breezeBag your basket here!Summery linen shirts for monsieurSwingy skirts and billowy dresses help beat the heatChapeau, anyone?Ceramic bowls shimmer in the sunVintage treasures galore
Wherever you are, all the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful summer.
Bises, Gayle
PS
A Common Kestrel, courtesy of Andreas Trepte, CCBYSA2.5, Wikimedia
In the tall trees at the end of a big field next to our house, we spotted three baby Common Kestrels. Their parents are frantically trying to keep them all fed, so there’s plenty of action. I couldn’t zoom up close enough to get a good shot, but Andreas Trepte captured the raptor’s allure in this image.
PPS
Pleasures of Provence update: I’m beavering away, as a writer friend says, on the changes the editor suggested. The revised manuscript goes back to her in two weeks for the second (and critical) pass. After that, several more stages remain, so realistically, publication looks to be next year. In anticipation of book three, if you enjoyed my current books, I encourage you to share your enthusiasm with other readers on Amazon or Goodreads. Many, many heartfelt thanks in advance. Watch this space!
Skipping out of town to the coast just as summer’s heat was poised to pounce had us humming a happy tune…all the way to Gruissan. Where, you’re wondering, is this Gruissan? Perhaps the getaway destination is nestled in the upscale Côte d’Azur? Near glitzy Saint-Tropez? Maybe by swanky Monaco? Or fashionable Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat? Nope, not a mega yacht, Lamborghini, nor Hermès bag paraded around this authentic fishing village, down Spain’s way. As temperatures soared back home in Saint-Rémy, in this unassuming seaside enclave, we chilled.
Which is not to say we exclusively navel-gazed all week. Au contraire. To celebrate Ralph’s birthday month, we made the rounds by bike, foot, and auto but sans rushing or traveling far afield.
Here are some highlights:
Working fishing boats docked in GruissanOutside of town, by the Cabannes des PêcheursHow to fillet a fish? Brigitte, from the enterprise Calegari, offers a tutorial.Apricots bursting with flavor at Gruissan’s market.Forget fromage. In Gruissan, say salt–any way you like it!Saucissons make for a perfect pique-nique.Narbonne’s Norman Foster-designed Roman antiquities museum, Narbo ViaBarges cruise Narbonne’s Canal de Robine, part of the Canal du Midi.Narbonne’s fabulous covered indoor market, Les HallesView from the terrace at La Perle Guissanaise.At La Perle Guissanaise, you chose your catch–barely off the boatFun and festive dining at La Perle GuissanaiseNewly opened Le Grand Castélou nature park offers three circuits–all flat–with two observatiores.Where to plop on the vast beach at Plage des Chalets?Asparagus panna cotta at Deux Oliviers, GruissanDeux Olivier’s grilled squid in spicy “soup”Exclusive digs, Château Capitoul, between Gruissan and NarbonneInfinite view from the infinity pool, Château CapitoulHappily, non-residents are welcome at Château Capitoul’s serene spa.Wine shop at Château Capitoul offers wines from various domaines.Refined elegance reigns at Château CapitoulCheering life in the slow lane on the terrace of Château Capitoul.
Wherever you are, dear readers, here’s to health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
PS
When the primary editor returns my manuscript of Pleasures of Provence (working title) at the end of the month, surely revisions will need to be made. In the meantime, I’m resting up, knowing full well I’ll need to gear up when the time comes.
PPS
The striking Woodchat Shrike posed for Ralph near Gruissan’s salt pans. (Photo by Irvin Calicut, Wikimedia.)
Cue sunbeams, blue sky, and a balmy breeze. Add an April Sunday afternoon in brasserie-rich Saint-Rémy, and bingo, a robust café culture springs to life.
Strolling by restaurant terrace after restaurant terrace, filled with families and friends of all ages, enjoying leisurely time together over a delicious meal, soothed my soul and put a smile on my face. Every scene revealed a vibrant slice of la belle vie that captured our hearts so many years ago, with the allure only growing stronger with each passing season.
And for this, I am extraordinarily grateful, especially after an extended stay in Southern California, concluding with the inevitable, sorrowful farewells to family and friends. I miss them every day, yet every day, la belle France reminds me that this is home-sweet-home. It’s the place where, for Ralph and me, joie de vivre (j-d-v) moments flourish best, making for a layered life bursting with simple pleasures.
Come take a Sunday stroll with me in picturesque Saint-Rémy, where j-d-v thrives:
Dine by the City Hall on Place PlessierPlace Favier offers several dining options.Cafe La Place is the place for Asian fusion.Le Goustarou serves street-side.A refreshing, sweet treat, anyone?Walk right up to Le Beau Bar
Enjoy your joie de vivre moments, wherever you are. However many you experience, there’s always room for more, n’est ce pas?
**
Here’s to health, happiness, and hope.
Bises, Gayle
Spunky roadrunners are everywhere in Palm Springs.
PS
Not only do I miss loved ones in the US, but also some members of the Southern California animal kingdom–like roadrunners, hummingbirds, and the Vermillion Flycatcher.
PPS
Pleasures of Provence update: After tweaking the manuscript a tad more, it will be time to move forward. How great it would be to find a new literary agent (or publisher), preferably a certified Francophile, who represents authors of upbeat narrative non-fiction. If you have suggestions, please do not hesitate to share! And share away with this summary of the story, which, most likely, will assume a new title as it nears publication:
***
Americans Ralph and Gayle, who have happily lived in Provence for a decade, unwittingly risk losing their right to live in their adopted country. The scare shocks Gayle into heartfelt soul-searching about the cherished life they’d put on the line. What makes this French life, anyway? Why does it mean so much? And most importantly, how does it blossom—by pure magic?
Though much of the attraction may remain mysterious, Gayle is confident that notable, knowable elements of the allure do exist. Identifying them and how they evolve, she theorizes, is crucial to protecting and preserving their belle vie.
How to begin the search for an unknown, a veritable je-ne-sais-quoi quest? At Ralph’s suggestion, Gayle recounts a dozen of their French adventures, near and far-flung, culinary and cultural, urban, rural, and wild—in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Nîmes, Brittany’s Île d’Ouessant, Mediterranean villages, Paris, the Alps, Corsica, and elsewhere—hoping the answers will surface.
One day, without fanfare, they slip into the spotlight. The trio of Pleasure Principles reveals the essential skills for embracing life-affirming joie de vivre. Mastering them means endless (and often delicious) delight, yielding benefits galore, including a better belle vie in France…and beyond.
From the terrace of the Indian Canyon Golf Course restaurant–excellent views and quesadillas!
Hummingbirds and roadrunners are year-round residents in my desert oasis hometown, Palm Springs, California. These adaptable creatures are designed to cope with the scorching triple digit temperatures common in summer. Despite the heat, they follow their daily routines below the towering San Jacinto mountains, where thousands of palm fronds sway under azure skies.
This artist captures the desert landscape: palms to peaksFrank Sinatra’s former home, Twin Palms
During winter months, however, with average temperatures in the 70s, the luxurious embrace of sunshine attracts flocks of snowbirds migrating from northern climes like the American White Pelican and Canadians. The former (feathered) group passes carefree hours floating on golf course ponds.
Weekend vintage marketStarbucks by nightThe Thursday Street Fair on Palm Canyon DriveThe Palm Springs Art MuseumDesigned by E. Stewart Williams, the museum conforms to the mountainBuilt Landscape 1, by Australian artist Paul Davies (2015)Jazzy vintage gowns with tiny price tags at Angel View Thrift ShopUpscale vintage wares at Market MarketForever Marilyn is a tourist hit–she stands tall near the museum.
The latter party of heat seekers, on the other hand, engage in a wide variety of fun-in-the-sun activities. They’ll swing golf clubs or tennis racquets, bike-ride, hike, birdwatch, lounge by the pool, take tours of Hollywood stars’ homes, admire mid-century modern architecture, enjoy authentic Mexican cuisine, sip lip-smackingly tangy Margaritas on shaded terraces, cruise museums and stroll main street, Palm Canyon Drive, popping into quirky shops.
The impressive foyer of the Agua Caliente Cultural MuseumThe sleek and swanky Thompson HotelEye-popping art in the Thompson Hotel lobby
Since we haven’t visited for two years, I knew to expect changes—especially after reading an impressively info-packed article in the international edition of the New York Times, 36 Hours in Palm Springs (by Freda Moon, 11-12 January 2025.) Two of the downtown stand-outs are the long-awaited Agua Caliente Cultural Museum—with a fancy spa next door! And, after years of languishing in a distressing, semi-built phase, a large ugly duckling structure morphed into the chic Thompson Hotel.
Mountain views behind Crudo CervicheriaDelicious fish taco-take-out from Baja Springs Market
Visting all the delightful cafes and restaurants that have recently opened presents a challenge but a gratifying one. Topping my list are the casual, deli-style La Jefa (with an inviting patio for sipping a morning espresso) and the seafood-centric Crudo Cervichería, which also has a terrace but with stunning mountain views. And a fire pit!
David Hockney comes to the PS Art MuseumHockney’s photographic drawing In the Studio, Dec. 2017 (partial view)Mexican artist Francisco Zuñiga’s untitled work (1972)
Continuum Basket, by Cahuilla Gerald Clarke (2018); crushed aluminum cans on a satellite dishThe Albert Frey-designed house, next to the PS Art Museum
Reacquainting myself with the fabulous Palm Springs Art Museum—free Thursday from 5 PM—is a must. A David Hockney expo is the big draw now, and just next door stands the Luminaire House, designed by the renown architect Albert Frey. Time permitting, I hope to tour the interior, but in the meantime, I found it intruiging to observe the subtle shimmers of the metal structure at dusk.
Outdoor mural by artist Peter Tigler with public collaboration (2019)
As does the temperature with summer on the horizon. Come April, snowbirds—both feathered and Canadian—will head north and the locals will have the place to themselves to hunker down and hydrate. And double-down on the sunscreen.
**
Wherever you are, dear readers, be happy, healthy, and hopeful.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Watching lively roadrunners scurry about is always a delight.
PPS
Comments on Pleasures of Provence by the literary professional have arrived! Mais oui, revisions are in order, but now I proceed with increased clarity and confidence, and for that I am over-the-moon grateful.
The imposing Palais des Papes in Avignon under a cerulean blue winter sky.
First of all…
Bonne Année 2025 & Meilleurs Voeux à Tous!
Happy New Year & Best Wishes to all!
***
A banner at Avignon’s City Hall wishes all a lovely and happy New Year 2025.
Provence in winter usually means a crisp chill in the air but more often than not, sunshine reigns.
Avignon’s impressive main theater on Place de L’Horloge.
So when duty recently called Ralph and me to Avignon—about a half an hour north of Saint-Rémy—we took advantage of the opportunity to explore. Instead of racing in and out of the Papal City, we took care of business and stayed for lunch, roaming around the architecturally striking city in between. And all under a stunningly blue sky but sans the crush of the summer crowds who flood in for the famous performing arts fête, the Festival d’Avignon.
What a treat it was to stand practically by ourselves on Place du Palais and marvel at the impressive 14th century papal palace, the Palais des Papes, home to seven popes between 1309 and 1377. Flanking the palace, the imposing Cathédral-Notre-Dame-des-Doms d’Avignon glistened in the morning sun.
On the pretty main square, Place de L’Horloge, the sunbeams danced off the elaborate Grand Opera which will have its 200th birthday in October. Just a few meters away the stately Hôtel de Ville held court with the tricolor flag taking center stage, waving in the breeze.
The historic Chapellerie Mouret has been in business since 1860!Fresh and fragrant blooms brighten the day every day.
Along rue des Marchands, we strolled past countless adorable boutiques selling clothes, confections, berets, and blossoms, plus a variety of products made from local lavender and olives.
Patrons of Café Saint-Jean soak up the morning sunshine.
On Place Pie, we joined a dozen other sun worshipers on the terrace of Café Saint Jean for a café noisette, an espresso with a dollop of hot foamy milk. Afterward, we cruised the aisles of the historic indoor market called Les Halles, admiring the bounty of fruits, vegetables, pastries, seafood, meat, fromages, and spices—pretty much everything needed to compose a wonderful meal.
Avignon’s indoor market, Les Halles, is a gourmand’s paradise.Find your favorite fromage at the creamery, La Maison du Fromage.Much more than crusty baguettes at this bakery stand.Meat lovers are sure to find their favorite cut here.Here’s the place for fish fanciers.Olives all sorts of waysBeautiful produce piled highSweet tooth, anyone?Salt with fig? Pourquoi pas!
And a wonderful meal is exactly what’s found at Cuisine Centr’Halles, talented American Chef Jonathan Chiri’s restaurant. This charismatic Californian native earned his refined cuisine stripes at top restaurants around the world, to include the Michelin-starred restaurant at the 5-starred luxury hotel La Mirande right around the corner in Avignon. (He also taught at their cooking school.) For lucky guests at his restaurant tucked into Les Halles, he prepares fresh, inventive, scrumptious lunches in an open-plan arrangement.
The restaurant Cuisine Centr’HallesChef Jonathan Chiri at workDelicious stuffed veggies with polenta Sumptuous turkey roulade with charred veggies and polenta
The day we were there, while we waited for our starter, he kindly offered us a yummy chickpea dip punctuated with lemon confit, which gave it a delightful punch. Afterward, we enjoyed the bubbling hot, crunchy-topped appetizer of a goat cheese melange made with loads of garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs—fabulous! Ralph chose the extraordinarily delicious stuffed veggies—he offered a bite!—and I devoured a moist, herby turkey roulade in a rich reduction sauce, served with a colorful array of charred vegetables and a ramekin of a creamy polenta.
Throughout the meal, we’d been sipping a delightful recommendation by Nienke, the engaging sommelier and server. After inquiring about our tastes, she’d poured a dry white wine from Domaine de Laballe called Sables Fauves. We thoroughly enjoyed it and relayed that message to Niente and Chef Chiri who noted it comes from the Landes department, south of Bordeaux.
Chef Chiri and Nienke, with moi in the middle
It’s a wine region we haven’t explored much. But we sure will now—a happy addition for the New Year’s to-do list.
All the best for a happy, healthy, and hopeful 2025.
Bises, Gayle
PS
Pleasures of Provence is moving forward. Restructuring some chapters and revising the ending is taking some time but no way ‘round it to get to the place I think it needs to be. It feels like I’m on the right track, but there’s a ways to go. Pas à pas as they say here—step by step.
PPS
When a VERY RARE bird alert came through for the Lesser Flamingo, Ralph and I twitched! On 29 December we hustled to the Camargue and saw the coral-pink wonder–it’s the one in the back. The singular bird pranced among no fewer than 1,800 pale pink Greater Flamingos. Sorry to say, I forgot my camera so this is the best I could do with my phone that we placed on the spotting scope. It was a thrill to watch it preen, splash, and even take a nap!
Gayle Smith Padgett 